Kohlrausch
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Posts posted by Kohlrausch
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1 hour ago, kidbeey said:
Hook tip is new and needle is in same position .
Hi,
I think, that will be the problem. Slightly different tension in the thread due to irregularities in the bobbin winding and the loop is formed differently. I once had a sewing machine mechanic repair my 29K1 and it took him the biggest part of time to adjust the needle position. He adjusted it by the common rules - no biscuit. He took his reading glasses for a magnified view - no biscuits. With roughly 40 years into the trade he resorted to measuring the distances instead of eyeballing them - no biscuit. He the adjusted the machine best he could, tightened down the setscrew 90 percent and hammered the needleholder in the direction of the hook. Every couple of hits he checked for picking up the loop - no biscuits. He started all over, checking the loop pickup after every single hit. 15 minutes later the machine was sewing again. Has been sewing fine with all threads since. He said, technically what we just had experienced was impossible and he couldn't explain it.
Greets
Ralf C.
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9 hours ago, Sticks said:
Oh yes forgot to add,
the machine is missing the little needle bar. would this make a significant difference to the making of the stitch.?
No. The needlebar is optional. You can always handhold leatherneedles and use the traditional saddler stitch.
Greets
Ralf C.
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1 hour ago, Sticks said:
Thanks Wiz,
One more (silly) question pls,,do you happen to know what this size corresponds to ??
I am assuming it is not 60s as this is tiny,
ie 10s,20s,30s,40s etc.
thnx
Wiz does this machine use a lower drive belt like the Pfaff 130 ?
Hi,
Wiz is using US-sizing. In Europe that would be size 110 needles and size 40/3 thread. The Pfaff 30 being an CB-sewing machine uses a pair of rocking levers to create the oscillating movement of the shuttle.
Greets
Ralf C.
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Hi,
B ist light to medium duty. Pfaff ranged the machines from A to D with A being the lighter duty ones and the Ds doing the heavy lifting. I have never seen a description of what they considered heavy or light, though.
H designates the pressurefootlift: H1 and H2 are 7 mm, H3 are 11 mm and H4 are 14 mm. Correspondingly H1 and H2 used needlesystem 134, H3 used 134-35 and H4 used needlesystem 190.
L ist for leather (as opposed to S as Stoff (fabric)). The Ls had a slightly stronger hook.
Or so it should be if nobody messed with the parts and the settings.
The 9 I can't explain. -6 would be the standard model.
Greets
Ralf C.
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6 hours ago, Constabulary said:
The AT335 and other Pfaff 335 clones are mainly used as binding machines, most of the time these machines are setup like this. Meaning they have throat plates, feed dogs, presser feet and other attachments especially for binding operations. You can convert them but if the parts are not included it may cost you some extra $. However, you can use them with the existing parts as a regulars sewing machine as well but he binder throat plate is not entirely flat, they have a cut out on the right side where the binder attachment extents into the throat plate. Also, the 335 type machines are vertical hook sewing machines (you load them from the left side) whereas the 227 type machines like the CB227 are horizontal hook machine (you load them from the top). As far as I know the 227 type machines can handle thicker thread better that the 335 type machines.
Guess you are living in the US, right? I ask because I recently have seen and unbelievable cheap offer for 335 machines in Germany.
These adverts are a hoax. He doesn't sell for the advertising price. If you follow the link to his shop, you'll find the machine for 1150 Euros plus shipping instead of the advertised 670. And he doesn't have them in stock. You pay first, then he orders them, and then you can wait for two months. Also, sewtex has a rather so-so reputation for setup, quality control and customer service. There are even reports of fires because motors were delivered with the wrong voltage.
Consti, you know that company, don't you?
Greets
Ralf C.
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1 hour ago, obow60 said:
The enclosure will consist of 2-4 layers of sunbrella material and a layer of .030" clear vinyl material. I figure I need a least a 3/4hp motor with 2" pulley.
Hi,
I once stitched 20 layers of truck tarpaulin, 1/2 inch total. That took about 1/7 hp to accomplish. I did this twice, one time with a clutch motor converted to single phase at 700 stitches per minute at a Pfaff 145 and one time with a servo motor at 70 stitches per minute at a Pfaff 345. The clutch motor drew 150 watts, the servo 130. Considering that the effectiveness of the motors is about 60 percent for the clutchies that's about 100 watts power output. Four layers of sunbrella I can sew on a Husqvarna Viking Combina 19e-houshold sewing machine (technically speaking. In real live the Husky gets pushed over the table by the weight and stiffness of my old folding kayak skins ;-) So I think you can go easy on the motor power, it won't be the limiting factor.
Greets
Ralf C.
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8 hours ago, mikesc said:
It "hums" along nicely in C# ?
Like this one? (min 9.00) Greets Ralf C.
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7 hours ago, dikman said:
An extra 500 Euros for a "tuned" servo motor? Wonder what an earth a "tuned" servo motor is, first time I've heard of that in all my searching.
Hi,
it is a translation error. Brunnet's homepage states the machine comes with a special motor that enables extremely slow sewing of one stitch every three seconds (20 rpm) by means of gear reduction. So in plain text me thinks this machine comes with a servo motor and a speed reducer.
Greets
Ralf C.
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Hi,
cheapest offer I can find in Germany is 1900 Euro for a Pfaff 335 new with servo motor. The 335 and the 441 compliment each other, but don't replace each other - IMHO. What do you want to sew?
About kornetshop: The shop-imprint says they are located in Prague, on Ebay he says he is from Bishkek, Kirgistan, and on Ebay-Kleinanzeigen he has clainmed to be all over Germany at the same time. Just make absolutely sure you can actually get the support you expect.
Greets
Ralf C.
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Naaa, I've been messing with the machine: Footbar up, needlebar up, needleclamp down - >just works out. Wouldn't try to make a holster of 20 mm hard weg tan with a size 120 needle, but it might be interesting for big quilting projects or fiddling with large and heavy projects that are just difficult to maneuvre under the needle. My main interest are folding kayaks, and once a 50+ years old skin has become hard and stiff additional space to maneuvre to the repair spot is appreciated.
Greets
Ralf C.
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Hi,
I have picked up 450 needles in little white enveleopes marked
Pfaff
Made in Germany
5213-01
140/22
7x3
794R
DYX3
150 10 SET. RThe needles are marked Singer 140/22.
Just out of curiosity: Why would Pfaff have rebranded Singer-needles in system 794? I have never heard of Pfaff having sold a heavy stitcher like the Juki 441 or Singer 7.
Has anybody here heard of a Pfaff heavy stitcher?
Greets
Ralf C.
(before somebody asks: @ 15 Euros including postage I just couldn't let them pass, they fit my Adler 5 after all.)
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23 hours ago, EarleneAgripina said:
I have experience with post bed one needle sewing machine. I learned to used it in Shoemaking school and when I was in Indonesia.
Now I need a sewing machine to work here in France. I don't have a huge budget and I have been looking around for used post bed sewing machine but they are all too expensive for me.
Hi,
is an old postbed an option? They occasionally come up und ebay-kleinanzeigen (our version og gumtree, marktplaads.nl, craigslist etc.) This one is available in Germay for 190 Euros and seller offers shipping: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/singer-saeulen-naehmaschine-ledernaehmaschine-schusternaehmaschine/518836670-282-3290
Greets
Ralf C.
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10 hours ago, Billosauro said:
G'day guys! I'm new here,I got no idea on how to work this,tags,topics thinghy,sorry,I just got myself a 42-5 but unfortunately she's missing the long beak bobbin assembly and the tension assembly,could anyone of you guys give me a hand to find the missing parts? Thanks for any help!!
Hi,
here are some pictures of a machine including tension and shuttle. https://sites.google.com/site/oldironmachines/home/singer-42-5
And here is some conflicting info on the shuttle, if I read that correctly: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html
Greets
Ralf C.
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On 13.8.2016 at 7:16 PM, kubacik said:
Hi,
the Texi is a clone of the Pfaff 335. I have always wondered who would buy a Texi for 3000 Euros when an original Pfaff 335 can be had for 2000 Euros with clutch motor http://www.fbn24.de/epages/64180611.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64180611/Products/WS0236
and for 2400 Euros with servo motor http://www.fbn24.de/epages/64180611.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64180611/Products/WS0003
Frank Brunnet would also sell you a servo for 200 Euros, so if you can attach it yourself you have a servo-Pfaff for 2200 Euros. Brunnet also has a Golden Wheel 335, which is a clone of the old casting Pfaff 335, for 1500 Euros: http://www.fbn24.de/epages/64180611.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64180611/Products/WS0244
HTH
Greets
Ralf C.
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2 hours ago, alexitbe said:
I will have a look at the Nechi... I think that is closer to what I would like... What about a Claes 214?... I think I might be able to get my hands on one... However, parts seem very expensinve...
PS I am in Mitteldeutschland
Moin,
the Claes 214 is the East-German variant of the old Singer-45-topic. Spareparts will always be expensive, no matter the make. And although these machines look identical, there are miniture modifications to diameters of parts, threadsizes, lengths of screws etc. If a machine is complete but needs a cla; fine. Clean, lube and adjust it. If it needs parts, pass. My opinion. I have two Adler 5, even their parts aren't interchangable. Bottomfeed only, fully operational, with or without stand and motor. if you want one, shoot me a mail. I am willing to part with the older one. They are to be seen here: http://eyepix.de/Adler 5/
Greets
Ralf C.
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38 minutes ago, alexitbe said:
Here are a few pics... The presser foot area looks interesting.. There is a 3rd bar coming down with nothing attached... What do you think?
I would like to sew up to 1/2 " of leather.... If I can find out what its a clone of, then maybe I can gain some idea of its performance..
Hi,
looks similar to a Pfaff 35 to me. https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/pfaff-35-industrie-freiarmnaehmaschine-165994854/
You may want to contact Horst Kadenbach in Burgdorf, Germany. He has a Pfaff 35 on display in his shopwindow.
The Pfaff 35 is the dual-feed-version of the Pfaff 23, if memory serves. The design of the Pfaff 23 has been - er - inspired by the Singer 17. All bigger sewingmachine manufacturers cloned the Singer 17 (rightstanding) and Singer 18 (leftstanding) sewing machines. These are light duty leathermachines. While the needlebar clamp is much more solid than the clamp in honesewingmachines the length of the needle is the same, thereby preventing the machine from sewing your desired thickness.
Your are live in Germany, IIRC. There is a Necchi for sale in northern Germany. The Necchi is the Italian version of the Singer 45 and should max out at 12.5 to 14 mm depending on the presserfoot. Tweaking it to the max it might take needlesystem 794 and reach presserfootlift 21 mm. https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/necchi-naehmaschine-alt-sattler/500591576-240-432
The Singer 45 also has been cloned by all major competitors, and an Adler 5 might be the more popular option in Germany.
Greets
Ralf C.
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6 hours ago, ruinbliss said:
I am a beginner, and disabled, so I cant even consider starting by hand.
Hi,
in this case I would buy local and base the decision on what is available locally.
Greets
Ralf C.
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2 hours ago, ndnchf said:
I thought about welding the parts, but correct alignment is critical. Welding often causes warping. If these are even .020" out of alignment, they may not work. But as a last resort I could try it. I'm in Virginia.
Parts and part number I need so far are:
Hi,
I think it's a more robust design. Having right angles in the machine is not a critical as having worn bearings. I'ld take it to the next car repair shop and have the parts welded, then clean off the dust and rust and see how it works. If the groove in the needlebar drive cam 8661 is worn out you have much bigger problems than a slightly misaligned BCL.
First I'ld try everything that just costs sweat, then try the repairs that cost money.
The grooves in the drive cams may be full of hardened oil, giving the impression of being in factory toleances. Once you start cleaning, oiling and operating the machine, the old oil would be dissolved and washed out and then there's plenty slack in the drive. Been there, done that, went there again, done it again. There may be a hole in the bucket, oh Liza...
Best wishes
greets
Ralf C.
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7 minutes ago, ndnchf said:
Hello, new guy here with 29-4 that has had a hard life. It appears that it was dropped at one point which broke some parts in the head. I have the head apart and found the feed motion ring slide bar and feed motion bell crank lever broken. Also the bottom of the needle bar was bent. But I've straightened it, probably within .010". The broken parts will need to be replaced. I was wondering if anyone has a "parts" machine that I could source these parts from? Thanks, Steve
Hi,
these are steel parts, they could be welded. I have an Adler 30 parted out. The parts are available. I have not tried to put them into my Singer 29, though. Needlebar and needleholder I have exchanged; also the entire Adler 30-head could be driven from the Singer 29K1, but that's al I have tried.
Greets
Ralf C.
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wow
Greets
Ralf C.
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On 31.5.2016 at 11:23 PM, gottaknow said:
I do know that with this size bobbin, you can sew about 7-8 yards with T135. That's it. (...) Guys like this tend to annoy me because they get other folks butchering their perfectly good machines with so-so results.
Hi,
this may seem a stupid thing to do in leatherworker.net, where a majority of members each seem to have half a dozen 441-clones minimum. But in German fora (forums) the question for a cheap way to sew thick material comes up about once a week. Typical budget: 250 to 300 Euros. That doesn't buy you a working leather machine with servo, but it could get you going if you are willing to do some tinkering. If you aren't doing production work on belts or upholstery 7 yards doesn't seem so bad, either. That would be sufficient for half a dozen big dog collars or one long "wedding seam" to join upper deck and hull for folding kayaks. And nobody would ever see the stitches, as they are hidden inside. I think, for small budgeted laymen cechaflos tips are quite useful.
Greets
Ralf C.
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2 hours ago, Blackiy said:
There are so many versions and clones about, its getting a bit much to find the perfect machine.
I found a Shanggong GC-335 and also a Typical GC-2603
Are those good clones? better then the original? I precsume the GC335 is a clone of the Pfaff 335, but what is the GC-2603?
I live in Belgium, Europe, so American models like cowboy etc are not available.
I think someone should see the hole in the market and start a website with reviews and all necessary info about industrial machines for leather
Hi,
you could contact Andreas Kern from http://sieck.de. They carry a whole range of used machines and new clones under the Sieck brandname as well, amongst them 441-clones starting at 1650 Euros with clutch motor. They sell internationally. You could also contact Frank Brunnet from http://frank-brunnet.com/. He also carries clones, amongst them the Hightex-brand. 441 clones start at 2000 Euros incl. servo motor.
The Shanggong I have not found at dealers that I consider dedicated sewing machine dealers, but I may be mistaken here. Just make sure that you can get real after sale service.
Greets
Ralf C.
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2 hours ago, MADMAX22 said:
Not sure if any of these would be a viable option but is the pfaff 561 needle feed or something else, there is one on the denver cl for 550. This juki also https://denver.craigslist.org/bfs/5520483606.html although more expensive at 800. I am not sure what those go for. Goodluck with your search.
https://www.libble.de/pfaff-561/p/377625/
Greets
Ralf C.
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8 hours ago, Neugi said:
I am fairly new to leatherwork and looking at sewing machines, I have run across a Pfaff 145c walking foot with servo motor and table at a local dealer fo $800. I have tried to do some research on this machine but would like to get some opinions from those who know. I am interested mostly in belts and holsters, have made some bags/purses for friends and relatives and I'm really tired of hand stitching. My question is this machine able to sew thicker material like belts and is this a fair price?
Thanks,
Neugi
Hi,
The "C" Pfaffs have a 2,2mm needlehole. According to the manual it's good for # 23 needles with T210 thread. There are also "H"-codes on the typeplate. H1 and H2 indicating 7 mm pressurefoot lift, H3 indicating 11 mm and H4 indicating 14 mm. Also there are "L"- and "S"-differences, L indicating a leather setup and S being short for Stoff, German for cloth. The L machines have a bigger hook. As the machine has seen half a century of service all of this may be worn out or switched out or be out of alignment.
If I were you I'ld start out with a more common machine that is available for less money and once you have some experience of your own buy something according to your specific needs. The Pfaff would be a good (and common) starting point on my side of the atlantic ocean, on your side it may be easier to get a Singer. I paid 250 Euros for a well equipped and working 145 H2BS with stand and clutch motor. Yesterday I missed a 141 (needlefeed) with stand and motor for 50 Euros ;-) 800 USD may be fair for a perfectly adjusted (and perfectly suiting your needs) 145, but it is no bargain IMHO.
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/505004/Pfaff-145.html?page=8#manual
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/1053237/Pfaff-141.html?page=40#manual
HTH
Greets
Ralf C.
Juki AC servo motor
in Leather Sewing Machines
Posted
Hi,
that's quite a motor. With a max torque of 9 NM @20A/340 Volts, if I miscalculate correctly, it would draw up to 32 Amps @220 Volts and up to 40 Amps @ 110 Volts. Your utility needs to supply that without frying the house, if you want to make full use of the motor. If you have 220 Volts utility you need a Juki D1CHCS control box.
Greets
Ralf C.