Fpotter

Why are you pulling on it? just barg the crap out of it let it dry and stick it in there, 15 min max This thing isnt going any where and it takes no stress or ware.

Kieth, Im glad you stated that you are “no authority on equine anatomy”. Their most certainly is a shoulder JOINT ( scapulohumeral joint) and it is in fact of ball and socket configuration. Now with that being said it is not stabilized the same as the Hip ball and socket and thus allows load bearing to be dispersed differently, the articular configuration of the shoulder joint allows the joint to be exceptionally stabilized this configuration is what allows the horse to sleep standing up with very min muscle activity. Also the rise at the back of the wither that you talk about is also opinion based. Due to the musclesketlatel configuration the upward movement of the scapula is very limited during flexion and extension of the scapula.

intresting...... What qualifies you as a prof saddle fitter? How about more 30 mile circles in a month than ( im going to step out on a limb here cause thats what i do) Than 99 percent of ALL saddle makers in this country, More differnt kinds of horses than most have ever seen, A pile of used wool blankets that that have been stacked to the ceiling in the tack room and fell over and then more worn out ones chucked onto that pile. 3 generations of no bull---- punchers on your rear end since you were 5 years old, Having to rely on sound horses ( that most often do not belong to you ) for a living, meeger as it may be. These are what criteria I THINK should qualifie you! I absolutly love to build sound functional gear but i have discovered over the last 3 or four years since i started building saddles that their are per capta more uneducated nitwit saddel builders than there are hot shot horse clinicians. This may be a crappy view of this industry but most of the people that are considered the top in this industry are so far removed from wet saddle blankets that it is no wounder the masses are ignorant to the saddle fit questions. That is excactly why if you want to order a saddle from me and you ask ME what you need ill tell you to go find some one who THINKS they know what they are talking about and has a big fancy NAME, Let them give you an opinion. I build gear for cowboys!!!!

I use a hole punch instead of bleading with a straight edge of some type. I have found that the strings tear a lot less and it looks way better when tapped down nice and flat with a hammer.

thanks for the input , The tree is one of Rod and Denise Nikkel's, The hardware is Harwood. I really like the 550 rings. from a users standpoint I pesonally like the rings better than the 5053 plates. I come to this conclussion from many years in the saddle and hundreds of horses. It seems like the plates are more popular with the saddlemakers but my gear is built with my perspective as a working cowboy. ( mabey to my detrement? who knows ) I also like how the rings give me a little extra depth without cousing me to make my riggin plate line to straight down. I like to try and mirror the skirt line with my riggen plate. Just my thoughts. again thatnks for the comments. I am suprised however i havent got any more input i would really like some oppinions on my lines from the pros.

any input would be appreciated, this is number 10 the pics arnt that great. Thanks FPotter

The small piece of wood is called a heel block and it helps keep you from blowin a peddle in a storm. I have always been told that the tail of you stirrup hobble goes twords the horse. by the way i would like to thank everyone for the feedback!

Because they think that the AZ bar is superior in strength, not sure why ( this is one of those single rig double rig deals)

JW, Ya thats funny you mentioned the rope thing, im still packing a long rope and slickhorn. I get some funny looks when im out dayworking but as soon as folks figure out you havew some sense they take to you pretty well. I will say this there are some damn fine hands down here tyed off or not its fun to see some different country and different ways of doin things. I am starting to understand where all of the different steryotypes came from, on both ends. Its pretty cool.

JRedding, Thanks for the input, this is the 9th saddle that i have built, and the ranch cutter i posted was my 8th. I dont build a lot right now im just trying to keep one going in front of me at all times. Right now i dont have anyone around that can help me along in person. although i do have some friends that i bother on the phone quite often. Im from the great Basin but unfortunatly am trapped in Tejas for the time being. Although its not my favorite place in the world i have learned some new stuff both a horseback and in the saddle shop. Its kinda cool to get around and see how other folks get it done. As far as the stitching goes its sewn at 5 to the inch with a 6 cord waxed linen thread. I know that a smaller perhaps poly thread would make it look more refined but what if any benifits functionaly would that accomplish? I have spent a lot of time making sure i can hand sew correctly and my sewing is straight and clean i often wounder why some of the best saddlemakers out their hide that stitch in the back, i figure if i cant make it straight enough to show it off than i need to work a little harder. I would love to here opionions on thread size, stitch per inch, etc.. god knows i could stand some schoolin on a lot of this stuff. My main concern is gear that looks clean and is functional. I build my gear with a cowboys perspective (ive spent much more time horseback than in the saddle shop) and i do relize that that might be to my detrement. Thats why this forum is such a resource for me it allows me to communicate with the masters of the saddle trade. I appreciate all the feedback i can get from you guys and gals and am sure it will help me on my journey to making a hand in the shop. Thanks

ya i screwed that up when i stamped them i woundered how long it woudld take you guys to figure that out

This is on a 14 inch buster welch tree, first time ive ever tried a no welt front end, i know the pic doesnt show the swell very good but any feedback would be greatly appreciated

Let me have it guys, Lines, workmanship etc.... Thanks

Any one know of a place to get twains hardware other than calling Dale?

Steve, Outstanding job! really like the lines. I wouldnt worry about your riggin plates being to low , just my oppinion for what its worth, based on thousands of miles in the saddle and thousands of cattle roped. Its hard to keep your flow from your front skirt line to your riggin plate line and get that riggin down where it needs to be ( somthing im struggling with ) in order to pull down and not in. if your plate is to high you will get hot spots from your skirt edges.and your plate wont pull right, unfortunatly its hard to make your lines flow the lower you go. I really like the rings you used for your plate, i have used Wallsal in the past, who did you contact to get your hardware, Dale? I am going to swtitch to the 550 ring exclusivly because of the extra depth. your tooling is perfect. I couldnt stamp a flower to save my life so i am envious of your talent, Ive decided to learn how to build functional gear first and then make it pretty. It might be a while . You seem to have pulled it off, a beautifull piece of functional art.