BrownChicken

Thank you! Somehow I bypassed the photo of the feed while browsing and had been so tied up into looking up the manual and other info I failed to just simply look at the machine photos LOL I looked again after posting and saw it was obviously not the same that's a bummer. It was listed at $1300 I was ready to pay their asking or see if they wanted to have my pfaff 1245 + some cash.... but not anymore! It would have been a 2 hour drive to realize it wasn't a needle feed machine oops Do you think I'll ever find a compound feed post bed used around that same price? bummed!

It just dawned on me the 1295 uwe has a video of is what I believe is called a compound feed machine where the needle feeds and the 1297 I'm looking at does not have a needle feed - just the rear foot walks needle only goes up and down. I wonder if the 1297 is a lighter weight machine?

So I am possibly going to be trading in my pfaff 1245 flat bed for a 1297 post bed because I'm really wanting something I don't have to smoosh bags under. I'm confused though because I can only find a part list in German for the 1297. I've found a German manual for the 1295 like Uwe had and sold ... but I still don't understand the differences. It looks like the foot lift is 14mm on the 1295 so I'm guessing it's the same for the 1297? i just don't want to buy something that has parts so rare I'm out of a machine if something happens. Already I hate the pfaff line to begin with because parts are sooooo much more expensive than say juki or consew! But beggars can't be choosers on Craigslist with limited post beds for sale. thank you for the time I've been trying to figure this out for a while now

Idk I used their mask that's supposed filter out the caustic stuff. I suppose if people use it daily in auto shops I'm good using a mask and doing it outdoors (good luck neighbors) or in 10 years when I'm dying from lung cancer I'll remember it's because I had to paint my sewing machine Haha The masks say they filter it out though and I was holding my breath really anyways. The machines aren't huge and you put a light coat on and wait 10 minutes. Would take like 30 seconds to apply each coat Lol I smacked it really hard with my scissors sewing yesterday and it didn't even scratch!

Thank you :-) I painted it with 2k paint it's really sturdy and I put a wild thick clear coat on so if I do scuff it badly I've got enough wiggle room to polish it out haha but I haven't had any scratches yet even sewing with zippers! Though if it's something really rough I will put down a piece of leather haha. Unfortunately it's not original. However you can see why I'm comparing this old thing with a beast pfaff 1245 to figure which to keep lol!

Unfortunately not quite, it was repainted after I fixed the number of issues with it which required me to partially gut it again only to reassemble it all over but it's pretty. It was going to look like a tired old machine but the video you uploaded for the tension release lever replacement thingy started a total overhaul. It's sparkly inside too haha but it is nothing compared to this pfaff. I value both of your opinions highly - if I decide to aim for a cylinder bed machine is there one you'd suggest or I should look out for? I'd probably try to avoid the pfaff brand unless another good deal came my way. I looked up the cost of a new hook alone and my stomach dropped! Shout out to keelersales for my rad decals though they're beautiful

The parts are insanely more expensive reminds me of my BMW.... hmmmmm maybe should I settle on my 111w being an OK machine but sell the 3300 and the 1245 and try to get a cylinder bed machine with a flatbed table attachment to use when needed?

I could never sell my singer though I put too much blood sweat and tears into it I think that's my problem lol! Oh gosh I realized that totally is the issue here ... I need to either accept my 111w155 as a piece of furniture because this pfaff is like my 111 but on serious steroids. Uwe you contributed to this problem by having some great videos helping me repair it haha

Or do I sell them both and get a cylinder machine? I spent $500 on both together as a package deal along with a 107w1 I'm trying to kick out to someone who wants one

I sew 2oz to 6oz max for handbags. I've been happy with my 111w155 but I came into these two machines and only will keep one. I kind of like how the 3300 is a lighter weight machine it's not compound just walks with the back foot however it seems with my 111w155 it'll be less overlap. The pfaff 1245 now I just want because the foot clearance is huge lol I really don't know why one may prefer this one over the Mitsubishi 3300 for doing such lightweight work that I do along side of my 111w155 i also usually sew 12oz canvas so again just seems like the 3300 has less overlap than the 1245 does obvioisly the pfaff is a superior sewing machine but don't get stuck on that :-) . Can you help me decide which works better for the light leather and canvas I sew that will work nicely with my 111w155?

Btw for anyone that stumbles on this thread and are wondering you can infact use the thread tension release guide for the juki Uwe posted and used for a singer similar to the 111w155 so long as you have a grinder to slightly make the lever less wide. It'll fit perfectly after that and probably last a hell of a lot longer. I just got another 111w today and guess what was broken on that one? Thread tension release lever too lol they just are so thin and get old i guess. Was very brittle. The replacements on eBay even sucked. This one posted above is really nice

Those are really good scans. Is there any way you can scan to upload maybe for a small fee so I can print? I was looking at the manual how to change the feet height while sewing and was kind of intimidated because my sewing repair guy had said I really threw it out of adjustment because I took all that out to clean it lol. But maybe now it's adjusted I can play with it via the manual? do you have any idea how to adjust the foot lift in general when you raise it?

For decals keelersales.com - also sells on eBay. Tell him Patricia Elaine sent you! just because he went above and beyond to help me out before I want him to know I sing nothing but gold for his company! Hands down the most professional and dedicated artist I've found! Really does an amazing job and he stands by his work. They look amazing in person and sparkle so nice in the light, you'd think they were original brand new decals (honestly I think the quality is a little nicer on his LOL!) So I bought the juki thread guide tension release and after a little dremel work it's SO MUCH BETTER than the crap before! I am very sad they do not make such an outstanding part ready made for the 111 but a little sparks and it for perfect. The release lever that actually engages the pin was wider than the slide. My next issue is i got it adjusted professionally - I was utterly sick of this thing after putting in so much work I was not wanting to tinker anymore! Well the foot lift was never very high. My dinky portable sailrite lifts way higher. After putting the new part on the presser bar I played a little with the machine and now not only is my lift low but the lift of the feet while walking is poo poo now too Ugh! There are excellent resources here so cross your fingers I don't have to end up taking my machine back and having it adjusted again because I tinkered with stuff I shouldn't have haha

I nearly gutted the machine and cleaned it, oh boy did it seem like it sat in mud! Then I gave it some new paint and fancy decals. The tension release guide has been the biggest pain in my butt. So the thing first of all was broken when I bought it, no big deal. Ordered a new one. New one broke while putting it on. Ordered a different one, same look, put it on and the thing barely worked. Wouldn't release the tension and appeared the pin wasn't long enough. Well I measured my pin against a brand new one and it's the same size sooooo I go back to it today and now the somewhat-working tension release guide doesn't work at all. What the heck. I don't see it broken but I just give up. I'm throwing my money at the one he bought below hoping it fits my singer as it seems just so much better made. Here is the link, anyone have experience if it'll work or not for my singer?

I just recently bought a 111w155 for $40 (score) 1. Motor belt: It's too small I've got the servo motor I replaced the other with all the way to the top like a dummy and ordered a 38" belt. I need something longer for sure (if anyone can provide a link to a belt that's an inch or so longer!) but could it be causing some of the issue: when I barely engage the motor I hear it turn on but it won't spin. When the belt is off it'll spin at that very slow speed. 2. Timing Belt: it seems tight to turn by hand anyways, too. I blasted the needle bar and presser bars and mostly everything in that area. Even without the bars on the machine it's still ... stiff. I have the bobbin component completely dismantled too so I know it's nothing to do with the bobbin "stuff" - love my terminology? Could by chance I need to clean inside of the head in no man's land or all that scary stuff down below? Could it need a new timing belt? Belt looks Ok visually. Am I just not used to a machine like the 111? I'm confident taking apart anything to do with the bobbin and needle bar/presser bar but that other stuff.. yeesh. If anyone also has any manuals or videos for dismantling more than what I'm familiar with by all means please share! It's much much more stiff than my portable sailrite (anyone want that POS?) and my other antique machines obviously... they're made totally different being a 78-3 & 31-20

That is the listing photo the belt is tighter now but maybe not tight enough since it takes a bit to get it started and catch? Also the scary part of the motor that's going to rip off my cats peg leg:

I just bought a 31-20 and its got the original motor by singer. No way this motor is still good for sewing? I mean it seems ok but no way. I also really am worried about the end of the motor that's open and just spins wildly. My cat is going to rip her leg off if I forget to put her up! I kind of dislike when I start to stitch it takes a while for the belt to engage because it slips too. So I need a new motor right? Also seems to have the original switch or what not. I've replaced the switch on my overlock just fine but I'm not sure what I'm going to run into replacing the switch box with this crazy old wiring! I have a LOVELY Wilcox and Gibbs 5 thread overlock it looks brand new and I got it for $400 also have a sailrite portable zig zag it's okay. I don't recommend anyone getting a sailrite portable zig zag save a few hundred bucks and buy the reliable. I bought this pos (but lovely looking machine) just because it had such a long arm and I needed more room for sewing canvas! I sew light leather on my sailrite fine but now I have a beautiful machine and table! i couldn't figure out the answer to my question from the older posts so please help! Also anything I can do to close off the spinning disc? Is light leather really okay for this machine? With the older motor and slippery belt? Thanks so much