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I am having the exact same issue with the Tandy strap cutter as described by the original poster. I am cutting harness leather. I ordered 10/12 oz. but I it is much thicker. I am leveling the straps in a splitter to 0.20" (7/32") but some of it is over 0.3" thick, which would be better than 18oz. I broke a few blades when I managed to get some side-force on the blade as a result of running it along a edge that wasn't straight. I was able to get a lot more straps per blade as my technique improved, but I am still breaking too many blades in the thick sections. I noticed the two wood slats that hold the blade don't stay parallel even if I clamp them down hard. I also noticed the slot in the handle is not square or flat, but it is concave. This tool may work ok for thinner leather, but it is inadequate for the heavy harness. I am glad to read advice concerning the Tandy metal draw guage, as I would have considered that had I not heard the advice against it. I am going to look for a plough guage. The Blanchard is a little pricey but it is still probably more suitable to my budget, work style and production volume than the Weaver Master Tools hand-operated strap cutter.

Who cares? The card holder is not responsible for unauthorized charges. To be sure, RFID is not as popular for credit cards as smartcard (chip-and-pin) or the plain magnetic stripe. Smartcards are not vulnerable to RFID exploits since they don't use RFID, and the card does not divulge the PIN. Smartcards are fairly secure in relative terms to magnetic stripes or RFID, but that security primarily benefits merchants and the card issuers. Smartcards are valuable for preventing loss in relation to data breaches like those at Target and Home Depot, but for individual card holders, they don't offer much benefit. RFID is more popular for low-security building access cards. But building access control should be augmented with more than RFID cards. If card issuers want the cards more secured, it will be on them to provide the means for that security.

I am just starting out with some basic strap projects, like leashes. Although the skills and methods involved are the most basic, I'm trying to use quality materials and techniques. I've made a couple of short hand-stitched leashes with harness leather and linen thread, but found as the straps get longer I will need to level them with a splitter. I was hoping to avoid that expense, but it seems inevitable now, and I think I'm going to buy a Campbell splitter tomorrow. This, of course, means that I'll need to dye the flesh side as well as the edges, and therefore I need to understand the basics of dying. I had hoped to postpone as much by buying drum-dyed leather, but here we go. All my projects for the time being are vegetable-tanned, drum dyed black, harness leather. I have a small bottle of Fiebing's Edge Kote which I acquired in anticipation of finishing the edges. I have since learned that it may be preferable to dye the leather rather than use a flexible coating. In any event, I don't anticipate using Edge Kote on the flesh side, but would rather have the best advice. Perusing Fiebing's line, I noticed the Pro Oil dye, which they instruct to finish with Resolene which I understand to be some kind of acrylic. I understand in the alternative category are Spirit-based dyes, and that some other finishes include Super Shene and Neat-Lac. Note that I am not in California. Initially, I am inclined to try Fiebing's Pro Oil dye, but I am reluctant to use an acrylic finish. I noticed they also sell a Harness Dressing in their finish category, but I don't know what that is. Should I just oil-dye it and use wax? Is there a different dye I should consider? I understand that there are innumerable ways to get leather black. I am hoping to identify a method that is congruent with my effort to produce a quality product.

I am just starting out with some basic strap projects, like leashes. Although the skills and methods involved are the most basic, I'm trying to use quality materials and techniques. I've made a couple of short hand-stitched leashes with harness leather and linen thread, but found as the straps get longer I will need to level them with a splitter. I was hoping to avoid that expense, but it seems inevitable now, and I think I'm going to buy a Campbell splitter tomorrow. This, of course, means that I'll need to dye the flesh side as well as the edges, and therefore I need to understand the basics of dying. I had hoped to postpone as much by buying drum-dyed leather, but here we go. All my projects for the time being are vegetable-tanned, drum dyed black, harness leather. I have a small bottle of Fiebing's Edge Kote which I acquired in anticipation of finishing the edges. I have since learned that it may be preferable to dye the leather rather than use a flexible coating. In any event, I don't anticipate using Edge Kote on the flesh side, but would rather have the best advice. Perusing Fiebing's line, I noticed the Pro Oil dye, which they instruct to finish with Resolene which I understand to be some kind of acrylic. I understand in the alternative category are Spirit-based dyes, and that some other finishes include Super Shene and Neat-Lac. Note that I am not in California. Initially, I am inclined to try Fiebing's Pro Oil dye, but I am reluctant to use an acrylic finish. I noticed they also sell a Harness Dressing in their finish category, but I don't know what that is. Should I just oil-dye it and use wax? Is there a different dye I should consider? I understand that there are innumerable ways to get leather black. I am hoping to identify a method that is congruent with my effort to produce a quality product.

The plastic guides are exactly what I have in mind, only a little more deluxe. I would probably just make my own as I only need one size and could cut it out of some plastic sheet (discarded packaging) simply enough. But I had only thought of making them for the outside of the edge (a cut-out v instead of a tongue). I like the idea of the tongue that guides the inside edge of the groover. My only other question is whether I have the right kind of groover or not, but I certainly have enough to try it now. Thanks

I make straps and groove the leather to recess my hand stitching. I've been using a Tandy Pro Stitching Groover set with the grooving blade on the axis of the handle, and an adjustable guide that runs along the edge of the leather to groove along straight, parallel lines. I can make near-perfect grooves parallel with the edge of the leather. However, I have not been able to consistently make the grooves come to a point in the center of the strap. The first method by which I tried to make the grooves to a center point was to remove the guide from the Pro Stitching Groover and use it freehand. I found it works best to start in the edge groove and arc it toward the center point, then repeat for the other edge. I had a harder time if I started in the center and tried to arc toward the edge. In any event, I could only get a decent looking point three out of four times. I cannot afford to ruin that many straps. If I cannot find a better method, I will just use parallel grooves only. I could try a straight-edge as a guide, but I do not just want triangles. I want a taper something like a gothic arch. The Pro Groover works fine with its guide, but no so well against a raised edge guide. I thought something like the Craftool Pro Stitching Groover or the Hand Stitch Groover from Weaver Leather might work better. I know the tool names are almost the same, but the groover I have now uses a little hole in the end of a shank. The groover I think will work better along a raised-edge guide or even freehand uses a steel blade with a long slit. I think if I had such a tool, I may still be better off using the Tandy groover with the edge guide for the edges, and using the slit-type groover for the points. After the grooving I use a overstitch wheel and then a diamond awl and harness needles to stitch. What do you think? Any other advice for grooving straps for hand stitching?