bradkincaid

I really appreciate the help guys. I will try to implement a slight adjustment in my pattern drawing with my next holsters, leaving more room around the end of the barrel. I will also slick the fold area down on the next ones. For the one that is already built, I will moisten the fold area with a sponge from the inside and attempt some light molding, using the dowel rod technique. I expect that will relieve some pressure. While we are on the topic of adjustable sights, has anyone built a holster like this (http://www.sixguns.com/show2/12/008.jpg), where the rear sights are protected? It looks pretty straightforward, like I simply extend my template up and over the sights, but I get the feeling that the sights would snag and dig in to the leather.

Hi, I just finished up my third holster, and I need to reflect and make adjustments for the next one. The holster is a Threepersons holster for a Ruger Blackhawk and I am overall very pleased with the result. My biggest concern is how the prominent front sight of the Blackhawk fits in the holster. Whenever the gun is drawn, the serrated face of the front sight comes out with some leather shavings on it. The holster is unlined and otherwise fits the gun fine. There is no clear interference when drawing or holstering. This may not be a problem, but I fear that the front sight will eventually dig through the holster. For those that make western/traditional/Threepersons holsters for guns with prominent front sights, how do you adjust your patterns? My pattern fits the gun really well in terms of retention, so I don't think I missed the mark too much in the overall pattern, but maybe there is a way to make a little room for the front sight. Maybe by rotating the gun differently when tracing for the pattern? I know modern holsters wet mold and bone around a sight channel, but these traditional field holsters don't look right with that wet molded treatment and I don't think it was traditionally done. Certainly when I see photos of Elmer Keith's holsters or Lawrence holsters they aren't molded. I've got a couple more revolvers that need homes, both with ramped front sights, so any help going into the next projects is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I recently purchased some solid brass snaps from an eBay seller and was disappointed in the hold; they come apart too easily for my tastes. Is there a way to increase the hold of snaps? Alternately, does anyone know of a seller of quality solid brass or copper snaps with decent hold? I see that Dot has a line of Durable brass snaps, does anyone have experience with them? I prefer a brass or copper finish, and I think a solid snap will age much more elegantly than a plated snap, which will just wear away to a steel finish. Thanks.

Thanks for the responses! I will definitely order the Strohlman book and check out the Chris Andre patterns. I don't really have a frame of reference to determine how heavy I want the belt since I've never carried in the field before. The belt will be for field use; carrying either a Ruger Flattop Blackhawk, S&W K-22, or S&W M29 4", plus probably a small knife and one or two cartridge slides. I'm hoping that the 13-15 oz stirrup strap plus 3.5-4.5 oz suede (from SLC) lining will provide enough support and also be comfortable, I don't imagine it will be so far off as to be unusable. Thanks again for your help. I can't wait to get this project started.

Forgive me if this is the wrong section to post this. It seemed appropriate. I am planning on making a tapered gun belt without bullet loops (worn outside of belt loops, lower on the hip) in the very near future and I am hoping for some general advice. Do you think I need a pattern to work off of? I was planning on purchasing Will Ghormley's book of belt patterns, but I think those are all ranger and money belts. If anyone has a suggestion for a good tapered belt pattern that would be appreciated. Without a pattern my plan was to buy an SLC premium 2.5" stirrup strap and then line it with suede. Lining only the wide part of the belt, not the billets. I don't want to taper the billets too much, maybe to something like 2" or 1.75". I'll use one of my trouser belts as a size guide, making the middle hole of the gun belt the ideal length and including two holes on either side about an inch apart to allow for adjustment. What weight suede should I use for a lining? And will the stirrup strap plus the suede be sufficiently heavy? Do I need to skive anywhere, like around the buckle so that I can double the leather over the buckle? Thanks for any help you can offer. I want to make sure I have a solid understanding of the whole project before I start.