iknowthisguy13
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Posts posted by iknowthisguy13
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What are the best ways to get nice even coverage with water stains and oil dyes? I have a lot of trouble especially with the oil dyes. I can dip dye ok but that seems wasteful and very messy.
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I have been hearing horror stories about over use of neatsfoot oil on holsters. What do you use to preserve your holsters including shape and retention. And what is the proper way to treat holsters with neatsfoot oil?
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I am new to holster making and am wondering what you all use and recommend your customers use to preserve their holsters without softening the leather and losing retention. Any and all advice appreciated.
Thank you,
-Joe
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Okay, I got in touch with Al Bane through the Class 4 group on Facebook. After talking through the alignment for the shuttle hook timing, we determined that the hex bolt facing down and slightly back when the needle was in position was not right. I ended up loosening the very first cam to the far left on the back and tapping it down and around until my hex bolt was facing me directly when the needle was in position to time the shuttle. Then I went back through the other two cams and timed them, then timed the shuttle hook. Tested it and everything worked beautifully. Now if I hadn't stabbed through my thumb nail and partway through my thumb, I would be a very happy camper. Thank you everyone for the help. I learned alot about the anatomy of my machine.
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OK, at this point Springfield leather wants me to ship the sewing machine back for repair so they can fix the timing issues. Bobby from SLC said he normally will reference another machine in the shop to time the dragon cam and timing cam (both on the back of the machine) set correctly since there isn't a good reference point for them. Could I get some Cobra Class 4 owners to take some pictures of these cams in relation to their set screws? Once I have these set correctly I can time the shuttle and cross my fingers.
The video I used to check these cams is the fifth one down here: http://www.leathermachineco.com/videostips/ Apparently they don't actually want you to change these, nor are the reference points accurate.
Thanks all.
-Joe
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If I had a decent place to hang them from the ceiling I would. Small hole(s) in the leather and plant hooks in a board attached to studs. What I ended up doing to reclaim my living room was take a couple of 1x6 boards and drilled 5/8" holes for dowels. This created a stand that handles the larger pieces and working pieces pretty reasonably. I am worried about being careful not to scuff or scratch the leather with the rod ends. I guess I could round them. I tossed it together yesterday, so I can't vouch for it quite yet, but it sounds reasonable.
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And the directions are now reversed. Goodie.
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OK, I have tuned everything that can be tuned and still no joy. Top thread does not go around the shuttle. The loop still forms then nothing.
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And the timing cam...
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Going through the Leather Machine Co video now. Already adjust the dragon centric cam.
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Is the outer race supposed to be really snug? I was under the impression from the Al Bane video that it would fall off with the screws removed. I had to work it off with a screw driver.
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3/16" of an inch to the best of ability. I am turning the wheel in the correct direction. Is the loop that forms suppose to drop down and hook immediately below the hook that forms it? If so, this isn't happening.
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Rethreaded the machine, all the tensions check out, the hook intersects the needle as proscribed. Needle is in all the way (new needle) long groove on the left. Small loop forms and does nothing.
Bobbin threaded and installed correctly. tension seems appropriate there too.
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I give up. I can't get the needle thread to engage the bobbin thread at all now.
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So is the bolt supposed to be on the back or am I one of the lucky ones? What newbie mistake is not allowing the bobbin thread to be picked up? And thank you for the tapping trick!
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Bobbin starts coming back up as the needle where the feed dog currently. This is the improvement guessing at the timing made since I can't set properly.
I bought it new from Springfield. The 6 mm hex bolt is what I can't get to when the needle starts rising. Thank you for the zero movement rule.
Should I be positioned at the start of the bevel in the hook or at the tip when 3/16" up from bottom?
Ok see the actual hook now. I think the timing is set right, but now I am not engaging the bobbin thread.
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Confirmed. The needle is all the way in.
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The needle is hitting the bobbin.
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I cannot adjust the timing on my sewing machine. I am sure I am doing something wrong. When the needle starts rising that bolt is not accessible as that part of the linkage is turning towards the back at that point. I am a total newbie, just finished setting up the machine yesterday. Does altering the stitch length alter the timing of that linkage? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Thank you all for the advice. I am a newbie so I am learning as I go. My intent was to use this very nice barrel dyed 12 ounce leather unreinforced. One of the guys at Tandy said I could glue a lighter strip on without stitching (no sewing machine). Any thoughts on this?
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Thank you all for the advice! Sometimes it is just so much easier to ask.
Thank you,
-Joe
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I am planning to make a budget holster belt using snaps and no stitching. Another more experienced holster maker in the area was bad mouthing single layer holster belts on Facebook with concerns of stretching and sagging after a few months of daily carry. I thought I would ask the community to see what the general consensus was whether a single unstitched layer belt was practical for a holster belt and what thickness of leather you all use for such. Any and all advice appreciated.
Thank you,
Joe
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Hi all, I am learning that selecting a leather capable sewing machine is no small task. I currently make holsters and got far enough into the research to understand that a jump feed system is likely my best option. Does anyone have recommendations for current models? Budget minded or investment minded options are both good. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
-Joe
Using Polycrylic As A Finish
in How Do I Do That?
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A local holster maker suggested using polycrylic instead of resolene as a finish. It does seem to work better than resolene when diluted 50/50 but I have trouble getting an even finish without streaks or spots of heavy build up. Any suggestions?