okie44
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Posts posted by okie44
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Thanks to all for the comments, and thanks Bruce, and Srigs for the suggestions. I understand about the belt slot sizes. I wasn't sure about his belt width, but I over did it a little. I have been following the forum for a while, and I have come to respect your opinions and comments. You can't beat real world experience, and I'm always ready to listen to someone who has actually done it themselves. Thanks, John
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Ok, I finally decided to make a holster for someone else. Up to now, they have all been for my own use. I enjoy making them, and they are cheaper than buying one from an established maker. Also, I don't ever seem to be able to find one that has all the features I want, so I fiddle around for awhile and come up with what I want. They don't always come out exactly the way I envision, or don't perform the way I want, but that just gives me an excuse to make another one. HA!Anyway, I decided to make this one for a friend, and see what he thinks of it. If this goes well, I may try and make a few to sell. We'll see. Here are pictures of the one I just finished. It fits a 1911, and uses so many different ideas from others I've seen, that I wouldn't know where to start giving credit to the makers. I'm almost afraid to ask, but let me know what you think. I've picked a lot of information on how to build holsters, what leather to use etc. In many ways tho I still adhear to my patented "lets see if I can find a harder way do this" methods.
This one is made from Tandy 7-8 oz shoulder, with a little shark trim. I make the holster a little too small for the gun to fit in, and do all the stiching before I stretch the leather to fit. I usually use drug store rubbing alcohol to soak the leather, then work the gun into it. After I get the gun to fit, I use a bone folder, and whatever else is handy to trace and highlight the lines of the gun. After all is the way I want it, I heat it in a toaster oven, to harden it a little. This one, I used Feibings black oil dye, and leather sheen to finish.
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Wish I had pictures of my first holster. It was a little over 50 years ago, and was a western style Mexican loop style, made from old inner tube (my dad ran a gas station), and fit a Nichols cap gun. At the time, I thought it was great stuff, and it kept my trusty weapon from falling on the ground. I am sure your stitching is considerably better than mine was. We all had to start somewhere! Yours does look good for a first holster, and meets the primary requirement of a good holster, that being that it works well for it's intended task, and is useful. All the rest is just window dressing. It is good to see other people's beginning work, as it helps to give us perspective. I have seen your recent work, and it is great.
John
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Wow.... I posted this back in January, and totally forgot abotu it.... LOL.The wax that is in the bath is a very soft, non flaky wax. It is formulated to be used on skin.... you put the wax int he bath, turn it on, and let it melt, then put your feet, hands, elbows or whatever you want into the mix, leave them there for a minute or two (not so hot to burn you) and pull out, allow the wax to harden and either dip again to add more coats, or not.... then cover with a plastic bag, wait 15-30 minutes and remove bag and wax.... put wax back into the tub, and reuse.....
with this wax being flexible, is why I considered it as a low cost water proofing method....
I have one of these baths, and it is called a paraffin bath. The wax in it is a scented paraffin that melts at a low enough temp. to not burn your hands. I don't know if I would use the scented wax on my holsters, but normal paraffin should work. I think it works better when mixed with the mink oil tho. I use the crock pot because it is bigger, and I want the higher heat to help harden the leather. This only works on veg tanned leather. Latigo, will absorb the wax, and become a little stiffer, but will not harden, no matter how hot I get it. I agree that this would not be best for straps or harness leather. I use it to harden holsters and knife sheaths only. I haven't tried it, but have read that on objects too large to fit into the bath, you can heat the leather at about 180 deg in an oven for about 2 min. and then brush the hot wax on the surface. While the leather is still hot, it will absorb the wax.
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I agree with Srigs, you need to start with your gun and several pieces of paper, but there are about a zillion designes for 1911 holsters, and if you have trouble coming up with your first one, sometimes you can get ideas from just looking at whats out there. By looking at other peoples designs, you can get an idea of what works, and what doesn't. You need to decide how you want the gun to ride, and what you will be using it for. A daily carry CCW holster will be very different from a field or hunting holster. I don't usually copy a holster, but you might find two or three features from different designs that you can apply to your own. After you make one, and use it for awhile, you will be able to tell what you like and don't like, and you can change your next one to suit your needs or likes. That is how I started making my own holsters. I am not an expert on holsters, but I know what I like. I have arrived at this by trial and error, and carrying one CCW on a daily basis, and occasionally in the field. I don't know all the answers, but I know what works for me. Hope this helps.
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I'll be first to admit that my holster stitching is nowhere near as good as yours, and I mostly just tinker, and only make a few for my own use, but I always do my molding and forming before I dye the holster. I don't know if there is a good reason not to do that, but I've not had much problem with dye splotching. Maybe I've just been lucky. I am impressed with the design and construction of your holster.
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Thanks for all the welcome replies. I've just been lurking of and on, and have already learned a lot. I've finally gotten enough nerve to post replies to a few threads. I'll post the only 2 pictures I have of my work right now, and will try to get some more when I can. Some of them, I 'm not sure I want any one to see.
I have seen, by reading several topics, that you are a friendly lot, and like to help folk rather then ridicule them for their mistakes. Here are the pic's, this is a ccw holster for a Springfield XD
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I'm new to the forum, but I just finished this holster, and thought I'd post pic's here. I made my first holster when I was about 10 or 12. I made a mexican loop holster out of a piece of inner tube, for my cap gun. I have made a few along for my own use, and hope I've learned a little bit since then.
This one is made from 7/9 oz veg tanned leather. I'm afraid it is not an original design, but I have made several modifications to it, and I doubt if the original maker would want to claim it. This is my first time to try and post pic's, so I'll apologize for the quality, and hope it works. Thanks
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I have used a mixture of parafin, and mink oil on several holsters. Used 2 boxes of parafin and 1/2 bottle of Tandy's mink oil. Heat it in an old crock pot to about 220 F. and dip the holster after it has been finished. I carry a small pistol in a wallet type holster, and I sweat a lot, which causes the gun to rust, after awhile, from all the salt. I also some times heat the holster about 2 min at 180 to 200 deg. in a toaster oven, then dip it while it is still hot. Using veg tanned leather, and it will get very hard. The wax soaks in to the leather, and does not come off when rubbing the surface. This same process works on latigo leather, but it only gets a little stiffer, and not hard. I'm not worried about waterproofing the leather, just protecting what's inside it. So far, I've not had any problems with leather deteriration.
Hope this helps
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I'm not an expert by any means, but I make most of my own holsters. I have made two IWB holsters, one for a 2" revolver, and one for a Glock, that have 7/8 oz on the outer side, and 4/5 oz on the side next to the body. The reasoning is that the heavier leather is left pretty much flat, and will "print" less. The thinner side is heavily formed to the gun to help keep it in place better, although, being inside the waist band and belt, it's not going anywhere I guess. Also, the thinner leather makes the holster a little thinner, and every little bit helps on an IWB. Have carried both for 2-3 years, and am verry happy with them.
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I'm new to the forum, but I thought I'd add my 2 cents.
I like your holster, and the stitching looks great. I still have problems with stitching straight, but thats not important to this discussion.
My method of making holsters for my own use is different from what I see described here. I have made both one and two piece holsters using the following method.
I mark the outline of the gun on paper, then allow for the thickness of the gun along the spine of the holster.
I lay out the stitches about the thickness of the leather, from the outline of the gun. I glue with barges cement, then stitch it all together.
This results in a holster that is too small for the gun to fit in. I soak the leather with either water, or alcohol, and force the gun in the holster. This requires a little working to stretch the leather, some times using a bone folder or popsicle stick in with the gun to work around humps and bumps etc. After I get the gun to fit, I go over the outside with the bone folder to emboss the gun paterns. This results in a holster that is a pretty tight fit. After the holster is dry, I pull the gun in and out several times, until it is easy enough to draw, but tight enough and formed to the gun well enough that it doesn't fall out.
I like to use the alcohol because I can leave the gun in over night if necessary, and not get rust, and so far it has not caused me any problems.
By stretching & forming this way, the leather doesn't tend to stretch much with wear. I also like to heat the holster in my toaster oven to harden it.
The risk in sizing this way, is that if I misjudge the amount of streatch in the leather, I will end up with a holster that I can't use. So far, I have been lucky, but sometimes get nervous when begenning the stretching process.
I usually use 7/8 oz for belt holsters. I have a few that I have used for a few years, and they have all given good service and wear well.
I hope this helps.
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Hello, I'm a new guy. I'm retired from real work, but have many hobbies. One of thim is leatherwork. I have been making holsters for my own use for a few years. I can't remember how many, but thats ok, at my age, I carry my drivers liscence around, in case I forget who I am, or where I live. Although I've been playing around with leather for a little while, I need to learn a lot before I can call myself good. All my projects are hand stitched, and as I accumulate more of the right tools, it gets easier. I still need to spend more time practicing keeping my stitches in neat lines. I joined this board to get more information, and so far I have gotten a lot. Thanks All
Pancake Holsters
in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
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That really is a great looking holster! However, I wish you would stop talking about that P-7 because it makes me extremely jealous! HA! They're very hard to find around here, but that's OK, cause I couldn't afford one anyway. I really enjoy seeing how all you guys make holsters, and have already learned a bunch. Thanks John