BBL

This is the most recent wood I’ve been using... wild cherry. It soaks up the pitch very well and it’s very hard/durable even when dead. I also really like how it inks. Gets some really neat patterns. It took me quite a while to even determine that it was wild cherry. The log looks very close to honey locust or red oak even. But at the age it is, it’s hard to tell. I had to split 1 of the logs to find out.

Bottoms are beautiful! As well as the mugs Thank you for the info. Yeah I’ve been on the fence with the Envirotex as well. I’m not fond of the final product. It’s a pain to work with. But I was unaware of direct contact. Can’t sell that in a mug! I make my own pitch... 50/50 pine tar and beeswax. Pine tar isn’t fun sometimes. Low flashpoint and sticky. Makes for some real fun if it does happen to catch fire... which is how I lost my last burner lol. I have ordered “Brewers Pitch” in the past but stopped doing so when I began making my own. The pitch does in fact provide a very durable seal and dries very nicely when applied in thin layers. Then I’ve been using a heat gun sparingly to clean up the outside and heat it to fill in the voids. I like it a lot. These are the latest mugs I’ve been working with. I call them “corset mugs” as they remind me of miniature leather corsets lol. I appreciate the info maxdaddy thank you. btw, the rest of my Envirotex is sitting dusty on the shelf haha. I’ll find something to use it on I’m sure

That’s the one. If I could find one that is a satin finish, that would be ideal. The gloss kind of takes away from the look. My only issue with the beeswax is that I have a very difficult time getting the lining to stay clean. I usually end up with drip lines down the sides on the inside. I am incredibly OCD and even 1 small drip mark bugs me to no end. Which is the biggest reason I have been using pitch. Is that due to over heating? I also do not like to see any wax on the outside of the mug (other than a very thin layer on the stitching and in the crease. Also, sometimes when using beeswax, I will get a separation of the wax from the mug sides at the bottom after it dries and hardens. Another reason I will use pitch. Any suggestions? By the way, I am low heating in a pot on a burner. Not a double boiler. Does that make a difference in how the wax sets?

One photo is examples of the various stitching patterns I have used. The other is an example of Envirotex sealing on the inside. I have my little process for how I get some of the colors and hardening. And my leather handles are 2 pieces whip stitched down the edges. They are contoured handles. Wide at the top, thinner at the bottom. Kind of sets mine apart from others... which I feel is ultimately what all leather workers want to do. But make it yours. Develop your own little tricks and designs. That’s the fun stuff... the experimenting! maxdaddy, I will have some antler handles posted here very soon!

There we go... compressed.

I apologize the string of posts... I think of things after I post lol. Once the mugs cure fully, some of them become hard as wood! Hard enough to stand on. I guess that also depends on the thickness of your leather as well. Most mugs, I am using a nice thick 14oz veg tan. Armor/shield weight leather. Expensive but well worth it. As I make mostly armor, it’s something I always have on hand. At the MD ren faire one year, I had one of my mugs sitting on a bench and a rather large gentleman came over and sat down, failing to see the mug. When he stood back up, the mugs shape was still retained. The seal was not cracked. I ran over to get a drink and it was still fluid tight! Successful trial!

Conrad... I have had a go at leather bottoms whip stitched on both outside and inside several times, just as maxdaddy specified but had no luck coming up with a consistent process. So I couldn’t make several at a time for multiple customers. This cut into my profit margin big time. I have been doing 1/2” - 5/8” wood bottoms for a while now and it helps create a heavier, solid and easily water (beer) tight bottom. I use small 19s, 5/8” nails every 1.5” - 2” to keep it secured to the leather. Adhered around the inside edge of the wood. After sealing, the bottom becomes weighted and gives a very nice finished look if polyurethaned or Polyurethane is considered food safe, by the way. Use whatever wood you like. I have used several but find that white oak, pin oak and mahogany are wonderful for weight. Poplar, cherry, locust create a beautiful color and pattern. I have been using Envirotex on the inside only, for sealing if you have a customer that wants to enjoy both cold and hot beverage. But the downside is that it leaves a very high gloss finish and can be extremely messy during the sealing process. If you want a more natural, “leather look”, use beeswax, paraffin wax or brewers pitch... pitch is a 50/50 mix of pine tar and beeswax. Very sticky when heated.

I considered doing something to that effect but was unsure if it would work or not... Thank You! Now I know it does in fact work

Well I do have quite a bit of deer antler currently and my father (retired) works at the Alpine Creek Lodge up in Alaska, off the Denali Highway. He lives there for 6 months of the year and does maintennance and "nuisance hunting" for the lodge... so he will come home with racks of caribou, elk, moose antlers... as well as Martin, beaver, fox, etc... and the occasional full wolf or bear pelt! Yes I'm fairly lucky in that aspect... the ones that dont get sold. He is headed home in 1 week for a brief period and is bringing alot of antler back. Contact me and yes, I will definitely come off of some antler for you! A good amount of The deer I get is given to me by a few hunter friends... so I have a good steady supply. Email is jeffdyrland31@gmail.com.

Maxdaddy... First, thank you for your in depth explanation and pictures. I have been having issues with antler attachment. I went with hole drilling and lacing directly to the mug, after small drum and belt sanding the attachment points on the antler itself... made for a very nice, solid attachment... and congruent with my mug style... I use alot of lace as I thoroughly enjoy the look. After sealing, the result is ideal for me. As I am using white tail deer antler, i have alot of points and curvature to consider. I prefer to use several "branches" per handle that somewhat wrap the mug... with as few cuts as possible. I will post a few pictures when I am satisfied. I tried running a longer antler branch through the entire mug and out the other side to give the appearance of the antler stabbing the mug... it's not ideal, I know. But as a decorative piece, it's very nice lol. Again thank you for your assistance! Your mugs are beautiful and very nicely done! The hammered look is excellent! I like doing the beat up look as well!

Hey guys... Anyone have any experience, insight or suggestions on how to properly attach a deer antler handle to a leather mug? I've had a ton of antler on hand for years and I'm tired of leather mug handles. Want something new. I'm having issues coming up with a good, solid, functional way to do this. Any suggestions are appreciated... thank you!