atom1

Thanks again Yetibelle, I do know of the vinegaroom and how tho make it but I have not made it yet. I think the time that it takes for the USMC is some what to long for the time that I have but sounds to be a vary good way to get the black color. I can say that I have tried several test to see if the Eco-Flow Black and the Resolene finish ( 2 coats ) would crack or come off, then soaked it for 2 hr.in water and it did not come off on a cloth. When it was dry and rubbed with a cloth again, no color came off on the cloth. So it has not seen the test of time and hope it will not bleed on some ones clothes. Atom1

Thanks Yetibelle, I have given the belt to the person I made it for some time ago and hope the dye last. I have used Fiebings dyes and the black looked like dark brown. The ECO-FLOW Black is as Black as it can get and that is why I use it. I have started to use Fiebing's Resolene as a finish coat over the Eco-Flow on some of my items to test as a finish coat so time will tell I guess. I am open to any suggestions as I am new to doing leather. Again thanks for the suggestion, Atom1

Hi again, I have a question about the final coat on a belt I just made. My final coat was Eco-Flo Super Shene ( 2 coats ). I have dyed the belt with 2 coats Eco-FLO BLACK then two coats of Eco-Flo Super Shene and buffed each coat. My question is -- should I do any thing more to finish the belt ( wax, etc. )? Thanks, Atom

Thanks impulse and others, I do know of sawing a liner and I do have a Cowboy CB-4500 to do that but that is just more time and work for the type of belt I am making. I do plan on doing that on a carved or stamped belts. I know that the use of smooth edge glass is used for Slickers and I had some 1/4" Plexiglas and I buffed one edge smooth AND rounded, it works grate. It's about 4" x 5" x 1/4". I want to thank you all for the grate suggestions on my questions. Thy helped me a lot THANKS, atom1

Will do Boriqua. I haven't the time right now but when I do my test I will post them, atom1

Thanks Boriqua, I plan on testing on some veg tan scraps to see what works or what will not work soon. Thanks again, atom1

Hi again, I did use the Gum Trag and it did lay the fibers down. The next day I started to stamp my makers stamp on the inside and the stamp would not make a readable imprint. I then used some glycerin soap and rubbed it with a thick piece if Plexiglas that I had rounded the edge and buffed to a high gloss. The imprint took vary little pressure to make a vary good readable stamping. The Belt that I used the gum on cracked on the inside when the belt was bent or flexed. The belt that I used the glycerin soap on the inside was pliable and no cracks. Now with that said, Being new to all this and I haven't tried to dye over any of the above. This brings up a question about dying over Gum Trag and Glycerin soap? When should the dying be done before or after? Thanks again, atom1

I do thank all of you for the info. About the only thing I didn't try is the gum trag, I do have some gum trag and will give it a try soon. Thanks again, atom1

Hi to all, I'm a newbie to this forum and leather working. I would like to know how to smooth the inside of a leather belt that I'm making? I am using veg tan shoulder from Tandy that is vary rough on the inside of the leather . I have tried to block sand it with different sanding grits also tried my belt sander. The only thing that improves the roughness that I can come up with is to use my round Maul and rub it on the leather back and forth as one would burnish the edge of the belt. Any suggestion would be appreciated, Thanks, Atom 1

HI, I'm new to this forum but vary old to this topic. As a old jeweler I would use a hacksaw blade griping it with leather gloves firmly on each side with the middle teeth gently moved back and forth horizontally to the wheel turning ( if possible at the slowest speed ). With that know we never used the same wheel for different abrasives to prevent contamination of the wheel. The solution to this is in jeweler buffing we have a tapered adapter that is placed on the motor shaft and the taper shaft has a screw thread tapered to a point. You can unscrew one wheel then place a different wheel on the pointed shaft. The wheels we use has a small hole in the center and will self align when the motor is running. With this setup you can have wheels for different abrasives and a fast change of the wheel if needed. Also the tapered shaft comes in right and lefthand thread for right and left shafts on the motor Hope this helps, Art