Calling all saddle-stitching gurus,
I realize that when it comes to the balance of TPI, thread weight, technique there is a lot of grey area, but of course there are some hard-fast rules. Here's where I'm a little lost:
I know part of this depends on the quality of the pricking iron, but when can and can't you just punch all the way through the leather and not use an awl? My understanding is that theoretically the iron is meant to mark the stitch and your awl provides just a big enough hole that your thread can pass through, but then allow the leather to neatly "close up" around the stitch. When is this pertinent? Is it based on leather weight and type (veg tan/bridle vs. something soft and pliable)?
I attached a photo of a simple iPhone clutch I made using a Tandy pricking iron (7 TPI) and .8mm Tiger Thread on Horween CXL Horse Strip. I mean, it looks pretty sharp to me, but maybe one of you can offer a critique that I'm not seeing. I have just ordered a couple Vergez Blanchard pricking irons (9 TPI) for when I start sewing up kangaroo or exclusively horse front leather goods. I know that these exquisite tools will create a finer hole for stitching, but, is it enough just to have a highend iron or should I get over myself and discipline myself on an awl? Lol. I do aim to produce high-end, extremely durable goods. I tend to value quality of construction/function a little more than aesthetics.
Thanks in advance for any constructive criticism and ideas!
Laura
