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About rvc

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  1. Yes it’s 5oz veg tan. Given that, it’s surprisingly soft and the bag is quite big and I have already cut the main piece and from that I think it will need some stiffening. Smaller bag would be ok without one. Usually I would make a test piece but this time it would need to be really big and this leather is pretty expensive :) On the base I will use Texon and it would probably be ok on the gussets too but the sides will in my opinion need something a bit softer.
  2. I'm making a bag similar to this from Tempesti Maine Liscio 1.8/2.0mm and I'm wondering what stiffener to use. The main options I have are: Decovil Light, Texon/Bontex 0.4mm, Texon/Bontex 0.9mm, Salpa 0.6mm. I was thinking Salpa might be the best option with it's natural feel but I'm not sure if it's rigid enough? And if I use it, can I glue it in before turning the bag - will it lose some of it's properties or is it too rigid to turn?
  3. Well actually I do all my stitching by hand That's sounds like the order I was about to use but the thing that is really puzzling me is how to add the stiffener. Gluing it after dropping it inside seems a bit complicated and prone to errors. How do I do that easily and accurately?
  4. I'm planning on making a bag similar to this. I will make it from Tempesti Maine Liscio 1.8/2.0mm but since the bag is quite big I think I will need to use stiffener (Bontex, Texon) to keep it in the desired form. I find the project otherwise quite straightforward but because the bag will be turned after stitching, applying the stiffener will be quite difficult. What would be the easiest way to do this?
  5. I've done a something similar a few times. By looking at the edges of the color I would say that they used the same method. Basically after carving I dyed the leather and then did the highlights with acrylic paint on top and then sealed it with Resolene and so far it still looks ok. The only thing to look out for is the edges and with that piece you can see that the edges are slight choppy so I think they are hand painted. Doesn't matter when looking from a decent distance but really close you tend to notice.
  6. I've been trying to duplicate the European filateuse method for doing edges. On veg tan I do it more traditionally but I explore this mainly because with chrome tan it seems sometimes like the only good option. Anyway, most of the products needed are acrylic and so basically water based and because I live in Finland there's a period of 4-5 months when I can't order these products because they render useless upon freezing. Sadly no one sells them here so going to a brick and mortar store is not an option. To bypass this I started testing with Fiebing's Acrylic Paint and it gave good results when heated on the edge. It smoothes nicely after the first application and heat and after that I just add more paint and maybe sand it a bit. Skip to today and we have winter again so I can't order even these and so I wondered if I could use traditional acrylic art paint which is readily available. It's a bit thick so I tried to thin it with water and then with Acrylic Resolene and it's ok to apply but it doesn't melt with heat the way the Fiebing's does. Does anyone have any idea what is the difference between the acrylic paints meant for leather and the other ones? Is there something I could add to make it more suitable? Maybe something that melts when heated?
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