Antleranchlady
-
Content Count
3 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Thank you for your advice/lesson...I have beeswax on the list and will give the oil/wax mixture a try!
-
I melted the beeswax down and then added the Neatsfoot Oil to the pot and let them steep together for a few minutes before stirring it up real good. I started with a 50/50 mixture but ended up settling on a 30/70 mixture of wax to oil; this allows your conditioner to actually go on more like a paste and is much easier to work with. The advantage of the 50/50 blend was that it will last a long time because it is very firm so you are really applying very little to the leather. I always show it off at shows when I set up by applying some of it to one of my stamped/tooled wallets and then after buffing it I spray the wallet with water to show how it just beads up and rolls off; people just about come unglued when I spray the water because they think it is going to damage the leather. I actually make enough to sell as well but I sell mine for much less than the other makers do (there is one I know of that sells a .5 oz. tin for $15, I package mine in 2 oz. containers for $18).
You are more than welcome to drop me a note anytime with any questions that you may have. I have found that assisting new makers in a private setting is easier than trying to get it out in the open forums as there are too many who don't pay attention to the information provided and continually ask the same questions over and over again. Look forward to seeing some of your works.
-
-
Thanks again for the tips/guidance. I grew up in 4-H. The motto is 'Learn to do by doing'. I will add to that 'by your mistakes', and 'by others' experience'. Wish I had found this site before I started floundering around on my own. I am now making a series of test patches....I'm sure I'll be back!
-
Life is a journey, not a destination.
-
I am new to leatherwork, and so much to learn! I feel I have finally come to the right place for help. My first 'real' project is a document portfolio. I developed my own pattern successfully, the carving, tooling, stamping and stitching all went well. Then came the dying process...I used Eco Flo Gel over the entire surface. My first mistake(after using Tandy Leather, apparently, lol)? But the resulting color was just what I'd hoped for. I applied Leather Sheen, and 2 coats of Neatsfoot Oil Compound (another mistake, I now know). I presented my son with this 'perfect' first work of mine. A short time later, it had the most obvious water stains! We live in an inland rainforest area of B.C...rain/snow are a fact of life. This is a mess...any and all corrective criticism/tips are welcome. Can dyed leather not be water stain-proofed? I have since purchased Fiebings professional dye. Would it show stains just as badly? I have approached our local saddle maker, who simply stays away from dye as much as possible. I did manage to 'wash' the water stains away by wiping the entire case with damp sponge. This also pulled much of the beautiful Briar Brown color out, and left the case a dull blonde-reddish color sadly waiting for closure!