Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by samNZJP

  1. Hello everyone,

    Recently I have been exploring long wallets and upon examining my wife's wallet (can't remember the brand but it cost her (me) a wopping $700) I found that the largest piece of the wallet, the exterior cover, is only glued on the outer rim so the two pieces are floating against each other in the middle. 

    What does everyone do when making a long wallet here? Recently I made a mock long wallet and glued the whole piece, but I could see it coming apart over time and being uneven. I know Equus leather seems to glue the whole piece, at least from video footage.

    Also, could the same floating principle be applied to bifolds?




  2. Hey

    Looking for all the help I can get on this one. Never made a long wallet before so I took to instagram for some inspiration... @from_one_leather
    See below for some pictures.

    The last image is a similar wallet by the same person, but it is the zipper in the middle for coins that I am particularly interested in. Any idea how it is done? I've never worked with zippers before.

    also, with the first image, how do you think the insert for the strap is sewed into the piece?

    Any other insights would be great.



    Screen Shot 2018-09-29 at 18.59.19.jpg

    Screen Shot 2018-09-29 at 18.59.30.jpg

    Screen Shot 2018-09-29 at 18.59.40.jpg

    Screen Shot 2018-09-29 at 19.00.30.jpg

  3. Hello,

    so when making a bi-fold, usually I have two find pieces for the final stitch. One has all the card slots and coin pockets on it and the other is just a slightly bigger piece of leather that is used as the back piece where the notes go. Does anyone have a good method for stitching these two together? As one is bigger than the other, I end up using a lot of clips and glue to hold it together as I sew. You know how there is that small gap at the bottom of the wallet?



  4. Hello,

    Went to a store today that had really nice wallet edges that were painted with an alcohol or oil dye instead of edge paint. They looked really good so I want to try to replicate it. Does anyone have any recommendations, maybe Fiebings, for a dye to use on edges? I'm really confused about the difference between alcohol/oil as well as this pro dye Fiebings has. Also, how do I seal the leather after it is all done? Resolene? Are there any other products? Is Tokonole the same? So confused...



  5. Thanks, I think there are some intricacies I need to investigate. For example, amount of water, time slicking and grit # on sand paper and gluing techniques. Recently I’ve been getting black lines which show the splits between layers after burnishing so I think glue/sand paper might have something to do with that.


    lastly, I use bobs method and follow it to a T, but what the hell is the difference between fiebings saddle soap (the paste found in the round tin) and fiebings saddle soap glycerin?



  6. 49 minutes ago, krominix said:

    I’m happy that more people came in to help talk to you though I’m certain it will lead to no where. Talking to you is practically useless. You don’t want to learn. Visiting your Etsy shop tells me all I need to know. I feel bad for anyone who may have taken any advice from you and your grossly false info presented as fact. I’m honestly not sure what someone like you can contribute to a board like this. The mods are pretty lenient here so I guess you are in luck. Have fun crafting wallets with 5oz thick leather and no glue. I can just imagine the beauts that they are. 


    To the OP, sorry your thread turned into this mess of false info. Pick out the good comments and practice, practice, practice. Skill like zj does not come over night and there is true painstaking detail that goes into every step. Think about every step your are going to take and the step after that and the step after that. 

    Thanks Krominix,

    I thought it was quite hilarious actually, I've actually watched him saddle stitch live on Instagram live so I know its hand stitched. Mr Rusticleathershop needs to broaden his horizons a bit more I think and check his racism at the door. There are many wealthy Chinese people looking to buy high quality stuff - I see them everyday here in Japan queuing up the department stores and the population is big enough to justify his business model; high quality leather goods.

    Anyway, I'm always posting on here because I don't have a mentor/tutor in the region so this is basically where I get all my info. A few more questions have come up though in this thread...

    1.  The whole machine/hand sewn debate - I was under the impression you could only hand stitch a saddle stitch?
    2. Is the consensus that his edges are:

    - Oversized template
    - Glue
    - Cut to size
    - Sand
    - Edge
    - Water/Saddle soap (No idea how to incorporate or use CVC yet, bought some yesterday though)
    - Paint
    - Wait to dry...
    - Repeat
    - Seal with wax?



  7. 3 hours ago, krominix said:

    Its a lot simpler than you think. Make your patterns over sized 4mm. Assemble them as usual. When assemble is complete, prior to marking stitch holes, trim the excess 4 mm off with a vary sharp blade. This leaves you with the perfect edge that requires 0 sanding. If you are working with chrome tan use edge paint like fenice, if you are using veg tan use the Bob Park method. 

    Yeah I make things larger, I still have them a quick sand though, maybe I won’t do that next time.

    for me bob parks method works fine up until dying. I just can’t get a clean looking edge with paints/dyes. I can get it pretty good for a natural look but paint isn’t my strong suit

  • Create New...