KarlProsek
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Posts posted by KarlProsek
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Hello there,
i dyed a couple vegetable leather tanned pieces for making a wallet, with fiebing oil dye (Dark brown) thinned with isopropil alcohol with 1:3 ratio (1 part dye, 3 parts alcohol) and that is the result. I already dyed many times a different leather (also vegetable tanned, but different manufacturer) with consistent result.
usually i use a sponge for dyeing, first the flesh side, second the grain side, all in the same session.
what do you think? It is evident that something is wrong... in the pic attached the two pieces for the wallet. In the small one there is also some “dots”... never saw anything like that.
best regards and thank you
Karl
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23 hours ago, billybopp said:Your front side stitching looks really good. It is quite common for the back side or your stitch to look straighter than the front. It tends to be more pronounced in thinner leather than in thick. Threads need some space to cross one another in the leather, which is easier with thicker leather (or thinner thread). Casting your stitch (pulling the thread back over) can help, but also tends to reduce the slant on the front side in a sort of compromise. Another non-traditional way to deal with this is to use your pricking iron to mark front and back separately so that they slant in opposite directions, and pre-make the slits with an awl (or if it's thin enough, just make the slit with the pricking iron). This will help thread back and front to more easily slant the right direction.
Hope that helps
- Bill
Hi, i tried to cast the stitch without good results.
So i tried to prick both side of the leather to get the slanting in opposite directions. Stitching was harder because the cutting made by the awl was small and the leather is thin. Apart from that, WE did it! Attached images...
thank you all, i will use this method when necessary, i’m really happy with the result, considering that is the first try.
thanks again
Karl
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7 hours ago, billybopp said:Your front side stitching looks really good. It is quite common for the back side or your stitch to look straighter than the front. It tends to be more pronounced in thinner leather than in thick. Threads need some space to cross one another in the leather, which is easier with thicker leather (or thinner thread). Casting your stitch (pulling the thread back over) can help, but also tends to reduce the slant on the front side in a sort of compromise. Another non-traditional way to deal with this is to use your pricking iron to mark front and back separately so that they slant in opposite directions, and pre-make the slits with an awl (or if it's thin enough, just make the slit with the pricking iron). This will help thread back and front to more easily slant the right direction.
Hope that helps
- Bill
Thanks for your help, i will give a shot to both your advise
bye
Karl
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3 hours ago, Tugadude said:Karl, I agree the front looks pretty good! It helps us to know what your process is. By looking at it, it appears you are using an awl to make the holes, is that correct? Are you using a spacing wheel or a pricking iron?
Your holes appear to me to be a little past 45 degrees, which is a good angle. If they are too vertical, it will hamper the result. Billybopp has some good suggestions to help the matter. You can also review Nigel Armitages youtube videos on saddle stitching for pointers.
If you are interested in stitching chisels, there is a thread created under the tab "Sewing Leather" that might be helpful.
Thanks for your help.
I use pricking irons to mark the holes but i use an awl to actually make them.
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Hello,
By stitching a couple of wallets i become aware of a difference between the front and the back side of stitching. Attached you can find an example made on scrap leather.
It is possible to stitch the thread on the back side as the front one? The back side seems just straight, instead of the front one that is much better.
Best regards and thanks in advance
Karl
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Thank you Wlg. Do you apply it only that time or even after the dyeing,too?
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Really interesting,chief jason.
By the way i have oiled (with evoo) the belt and the loop.
After it i dampened the leather in the bending parts and the lifting is less noticeable. The color is thinner but without signs of cracking.
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Thanks, so for the next items i will oil this leather a bit before doing anything.
I will give a try with olive oil. As far as i read, it gets different result but i want to test it.
Bye!
K
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Thank you all.
There is an oil (or another conditioner) that doesn't darken the leather when applied?
What's the best moment for oiling the leather? I think after the dyeing but before the finishing,since the alcohol in the dye can dry the leather,right?
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No,but i fear that the cracks show up by simply inserting the strap through the buckle.
you suggest to wet it after the finishing?
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Hello there,
i'm practicing about belts and found an "issue".
As you can see from the attachment, the belt loop shows some little cracks when i bend it before the stitching.
The belt as this issue,too. Probably the belt cannot withstand a normal everyday use without showing this defect.
The leather is vegetable tanned, approximately 3 mm thick, dyed with fiebings pro oil dye (light brown) and finished with an homemade mixture of beeswax and fiebings's neatsfoot oil compound (40 wax and 60 oil). The mixture had darkened the leather, but that will be another thread.
For any kind of advice,i wish to thank you.
i beg your pardon for my english...you know, i'm Italian.
K
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Hello there,
a newbie is here!
I have a lot of question already
best regards
K
Dyed leather - awful result
in How Do I Do That?
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Hi,
well, i did a brief isopropil alcohol dampening with a sponge (only a passage, without strong rubbing) on the grain side before dyeing.