Premo

Hey Bob!

my name is Mason Premo, i own and operate Premo leather based here in Jamestown Ny. I’ve done leather work for years and up until now I’ve done only hand stitching. I’m not able to keep up with demand anymore unless i have some help from a sewing machine. I didn’t want to go all in on a crazy expensive machine up front so i ended up with a used Consew 205rb. It seems like a really solid machine but i am at a loss with a couple issues. I wish i had an expert in town to personally show me the ropes but i don’t have that luxury. Anyway, here’s the issues.

Note: I’m using this machine for wallets mainly. I use 4/5 oz natural veg  for my products and generally are never thicker than three layers. 95% of the Time it’s two layers. I’m aware this machine is primarily used for cloth and fabric leathers but i feel it can do the job. I’ve replaced the feed from those crazy sharp teeth to a rubber one so it’s not marking up the back.

1. I love 138 thread because it’s bigger. I’ve gotten a size 24 needle for it as well. Is this proper? 

2. The tension is off somewhere and the top thread continues to pop through the bottom. What am i doing wrong!? 

3. The reverse stitch length is not the same as the forward no matter how i adjust it. I’ve tried removing the back plate and adjusting the screw but it still seems to be off. 

4. Lastly: the presser foot seems to really leave a bad gouge in the front face of whatever I’m sewing. I’ve tried adjusting the pressure by unscrewing the pressure bolt up top nearly all the way. Still seems to leave a mark. 

Hopefully you can give me some advice. Maybe I’ve just screwed up and gotten the wrong machine for the job. Although i do know a leather worker who uses the same machine and seems to do well on it.. thank you for your time!! 

Mason Premo