CowboyBob

Yes,they need to be fastened w/a nail or screw,here's what we do,one on each side,3/4" long drywall screw.

If you ever get a chance to go the leather show in Sheridan be sure to go Kings Rope store in town & check out the awesome display of Ann & Al's work,actual workbenches & stories that they have about them.

The 112w would be easier since it doesn't have the extra walking feet parts on it.Just get the rockframe out (the part the needlebar rides in & you be able to get the takeup lever out.

Looks like an easy fix,we have welded up a lot of cracked machines over the years.We pre-heated & used nickle rod.They can also be brazed if your better at that.It looks like not too many parts are missing so you should try to save it.

Here's a sample off one we have showing the stitch on the bottomside.

We recommend going through 2-holes as some threads have a tendency to work their way out of the 1st tension if you only go through 1-hole,the slight extra tension it gives will prevent it from happening.

14mm

Maybe this will help?

We don't have any problems with the pulleys fitting,we order them with the small pulley.

We can make one for you.

Here's a chart,but you cannot go wrong by oiling every spot were metal rubs against metal & any pivot point,oil the groove the shuttle rides in everytime you change a bobbin. HTH

Don't forget back when these machines were made they never knew about this new-fangled nylon twisted thread,so I think you have so much pressure @ that point it's pinching the thread too much,try a lighter spring.I've ran them with nylon & never had any trouble.

You only need that part called the thread lock for when your sewing real thick leather like 3/4" or so.You can use a 1/2 -3/4 HP motor.

Ken, It has an oscillating shuttle w/a round bobbin & uses up to #92 thread.

I've sold a few of them yrs ago & think it was in the middle to late 1980's that they had them.