ArcherBen

Burnishing edges is my 2nd to last step. My last step is applying whatever final topcoat I have decided to use on any particular item. I use an edge burnisher chucked into a drill press so working around the molding isn't really a big deal for me. If you're burnishing by hand I can see how that could get tricky. You might want to consider burnishing with a dowel chucked into a dremel tool as a cheap alternative to hand burnishing (If that is indeed what you are doing now).

That's a good looking belt. One of these days I'm gonna get around to making myself a belt. The two things stopping me are one...I've only been working from double shoulders and I'd much rather build a belt from a side. And two, the thought of hand stitching an entire belt. By the way, next time you place an order with Angelus, consider trying some Sun Tan. They talked me into trying it and it has become one of my favorite colors.

I personally think your dye job looks pretty good. What method of application did you use on this one? I agree that browns are tough to work with. However, after several projects I've come to the conclusion that while there are some things you can do to help get an even color, it's okay to have some variance as the leather also plays a factor in how it takes the dye.

This serves as a sobering reminder to all of us to think through the safetly aspects of a design before building. http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=6630516

No problem. I really wanted to buy a Bob Douglass Haft (I've thoroughly enjoyed the few other tools I've bought from him) but was in a hurry to finish a project and short on funds at the time, and at Barry's price I just had to try it. I still may order one of Bob's when funds are more plentiful, simply so I can compare the two and have a backup. It was a really helpless feeling having a broken awl haft and a deadline to hit.

There's nothing wrong with your 20 degree cant. As Lobo said, that is all personal preference. I personally am more comfortable drawing from a 12 - 15 degree cant, but I've built a handful of holsters with a 25 degree cant for both myself and others that have worked out very well. In fact, one of my personal holsters has a 25 degree cant and is very comfortable to wear. I've got a friend that I will be building for soon that wants a 30+ degree cant. On the other hand, I've had others tell me that 15 degrees is too much and that they prefer a zero to five degree cant. In fact, I even had one guy tell me that he would prefer the gun be canted backwards instead of forwards. My advice (for what it's worth) is to build to whatever specs you feel work best for you (or your customer feels works best for them), so long as you deem the design safe.

I bought a small Barry King haft a couple of weeks ago to replace my old CS Osborne that just broke down on me. Thus far I've only used it on one small project, but I am impressed with it and look forward to getting several years of use out of it. I think it was about $40 shipped to my house.

It seems like every time I start think that I am progressing along rather well, I stumble across one of BoomSticks instructional posts and am quickly humbled into feeling like a beginner again. BoomStick, thanks for the very informative post. You are obviously passionate about your business and it would appear that you have done considerable research in an effort to perfect your work. I dream of the day that I achieve the knowledge and skill that you've got pertaining to gun leather.

My recent marriage has really slowed down my production. This is the first thing that I've turned out in about a month. Anyway, here's one I just finished for a local customer.

ArtS, The sharkskin is very easy to work with. As far as cost goes, it goes for about $20 a square foot.

I've seen a handful of holsters posted here that had snapped belt straps instead of cut belt loops. I recently decided to try my hand at this style of attachment and so far am quite pleased with the design (sorry, I haven't taken pics yet). Building this style of holster got me thinking about the design of the attachment strap specifically. For those that have built this style, do you prefer to start your straps from the top or bottom of the holster? As a follow up question, why? Is there a benefit to one design vs. the other? I personally started mine from the bottom, but couldn't really see much advantage to one way over the other. If you're having trouble visualising what I'm talking about, take a look at the holsters in this thread.

I've been super busy lately trying to get things in order before I get married, so I haven't had a whole lot of time to spend working on leather items, but here's a couple that I have finished up in the last few weeks. Gun: Beretta Tomcat .25 Leather: 7-8 oz. Cowhide Dye: Angelus Honey Finish: Angelus Acrylic This customer specified that he wanted a straight vertical cant, he wanted the gun barrel to not sit below the belt, and he wanted to be able to get a full grip on the gun while holster. I didn't think that would be too difficult to do, but with this small of a gun it was kinda tricky getting the belt slots on there while leaving enough room to grip the gun. However, I think I've accomplished what I set out to do and the customer is very satisfied with the end results. Gun: Springfield XD9SC Leather: 7-8 oz. Cowhide Body Dye: Angelus Honey Throatband Dye: Angelus Saddle Tan Finish: Angelus Acrylic All comments, critique, and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks for the comments. Larrupin, this is my own design, however, I will admit that various features have been inspired by other pieces that I have seen. If I do another like this I'll make a few minor modifications.

Here's a holster I just finished for a Springfield XD45. I'm planning on giving this to my brother for his birthday in about a month. Let me know what you think (good, bad, or indifferent).