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paqman

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About paqman

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    sewing machines, computers, Ham radio and repairing old gear!
    Machines: Singer 29K71, 29k173, Juki LU-563 , Singer 107W1, Singer 107W102, Juki DDL 555, Merrow A-3DW, Juki MO-816, Singer 47W, Singer 144W, Adler 67, Mitsubishi dy-340 and too many more

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Bags and repairs including shoes
  • Interested in learning about
    I like Singer machines
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Looking at diagnosing an old Singer 29k71 that will not sew.

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  1. sooooo i got the hook today. I ended up getting a hook for a 167 (Bigger Bobbin) instead and took a chance that it would fit as it seemed to be mounted the same way. I was right, it fits perfectly... the only thing that does not fit is the Opener. Looking at pictures, they look identical but mine rubs against the hook when i turn it so i suspect the opener for the 167 is slightly wider and allows for the larger hook. Can anyone confirm what the difference between both openers? Looking at the service manual, The opener for the 067 is 067001700 and the opener for the 167 is 0167001700. I thought about bending the opener out a bit to make room for the hook but im worried it wont work and maybe even break it. Thoughts?
  2. Made the plate, and it looks good... Got a piece of Stainless and was able to file a nice angle on both sides and after a lot of filing, i got it to fit nice. Also ground the underside and it was not easy but it should work. I also received my Decals. Waiting for the Hook now.
  3. Thanks! yep im waiting for the hook to get here so that i can figure out how much to gouge out... im thinking a forstner bit big enough to take off some material from the underside of the plate. Not sure how i would do this for the stainless one yet...
  4. Thanks Everyone for the replies. Found a bunch of useful parts and im waiting for them to come in the mail. This includes new Decals as i decided the machine is nice enough to rebuild clean and repaint as most parts are there and its not worn out besides the throat plate and feed dog. I used some Hammer tone paint instead of the regular grey as i thought it would look really nice. The right slide plate is missing and i cant seen to find a replacement so i made one out of plexi glass for now. I may go to the metal supermarket and find a nice piece of stainless to make a new one.
  5. Hi all, i have once again acquires more sewing machines. A Local factory is closing and they are tearing it down and they used to make chairs and seats and had lots of machines for sale. A few months back, i bought a few Juki walking foot machines including a LU-563 and LUH-521 as well as a 47W66. I have since sold the LUH double needle machine but kept the other 2. I talked to the owner a few days back and he made me an offer i could not refuse on the last 3 machines he had for sale, an Adler 67, Mitsubishi dy-340 and a Singer 144W (20 in long arm and huge bobbins, this thing is a beast!) The Adler is missing some parts and i need replacements. I would really like to restore it and get it back in working order as its a really nice machine and is mostly complete. The hook was there and was rusty and stuck so i started cleaning it and got it free and started working on cleaning it up and realized the hook is just snapped off. I can find hooks online but they are over 200$! if that's what i have to pay, fine but still, it seems steep. I am also missing the slide plate on the right side as well as a set of feet. There are parts available, but some are harder to find like the slide plate. Hooks are pricey, feet are all over the place and seem cheaply made. I read somewhere on the forum that there is a mod to grind the foot bar to accept 111W style feet? Where do you guys get your parts for Adler machines? There is no dealers locally, there used to be one but they closed down Andre
  6. ok so i struggled to adjust everything and it kept jamming, turns out, my lever kept slipping sooo.... i stopped at the metal supermarket and bought some aluminum and re-made the lever. Much better now! I got enough to remake the other bracket also but it is locked in place and is solid so i may keep it.
  7. Thanks! Yep i thought about that also! i have worked with alluminum before and it can easily be worked with woodworking tools... ill look into it. There is a metal supermarket near by, ill go and pick a few chunks and see what i can come up with...
  8. thanks all! I have officially rebuilt it last night, see below. The parts fit perfectly. Im not loving the plastic parts but they work, i may still find some brass stock and remake them in brass, it would also look quite nice. My main concern is the set screws stripping the plastic so i was careful when tightening them down. I had to omit the tension spring that usually stick out next to the big adjustment knob as it was also missing (Most likely broke off like the other parts). I put a washer and screw in there to keep that dial from falling of the post. Luckily, i had this black spring and installed it between the lift rod and the existing hole in the casting, this keeps the knee lift tension rod down at all times so pushing the knee lift increases the sew width and allows it to return to centre when you let go. The lever i made is used to adjust how you want to sew (Width), left to centre, side to side, right to centre. I have to drill the 2 outer holes once i figure out the limits of the needle but doubt i would use those settings. There are limit set screws at the bottom that limit the side to side movement so the needle wont swing out too far. The large knob needs to be loosened to allow the knee lift to adjust sew width on the fly, if you tighten it, it sets the width and wont allow the knee lift to move. There is a right hand screw keeping the knob from coming off when loosened all the way which is a nice touch.
  9. ok so i thought i should be able to make those parts in brass but could not find appropriate stock locally so i ended up getting some delrin and made the parts that way. Not perfect but it will get the machine functional. I also found that Singer made a 107G302 which used the same parts. Unfortunately, the lever is the same part and still unavailable and the other part is slightly different with part number 508202 but again, its not available. Lastly, i had a spare timing belt for a 107W1, part 224400, and figured it would fit, well, it wont. This machine uses a slightly longer belt, part number 224303. So i guess im using the old link belt till i figure something out.
  10. Yes! so what you are saying is that i should go get myself a mini lathe and just make the parts? lol im on board. I thought about getting some brass stock and making the parts out of brass... It would look nice and be easier to work with... I also thought about 3d printing the parts and casting them in aluminum or brass using the PLA loss method. I have never used a lathe, 3d printer or done any casting soooo yea i have a lot to learn Andre
  11. Thanks Quade, I agree. Thats why i recently replaced my 111W155 with a Juki Lu563... its not worn out and i dont have to mess with it to make it work. Also, large bobbins... Problem is that i cant leave well enough alone and i really enjoy restoring machines so every time i see that 107W102, i just want to fix and rebuild it. Andre
  12. I am bumping this. I am still looking for parts... ill even settle for another machine for parts or something. I wonder if anyone out there has a bunch of Simanco parts sitting around and may have those parts? Thoughts? Anyone? Andre
  13. Hi all, Not a Leather machine per say but i recently was given an old Singer 107W102. It looks in good condition but the head was clearly dropped and the top lever width adjustment and the bracket are broken clean off. I can find lots of parts for that model but not those parts. (224346 and 224347) Besides getting another parts machine or fabricating something, any idea where i can find something? Of course i checked the usual sites including Ebay and found nothing. Thoughts? Thanks!
  14. Thank you Ole South! That is a looooot less than what i spend on the other hook even with the conversion rate (Im in Canada). So i just purchased it. Still dont know if i can return the other one but i need a hook regardless. Andre
  15. All, thanks for all the great replies, Tried all of the above and i checked timing again. I think it was off. Still not working great so, for my own sanity, i took out the new hook and put in the old one and now its working as it should and not skipping. Full disclosure, i think i was sold the wrong hook. It fits but does not have a notch on the shaft so i had to eyeball it for timing and just slip it left or right to make it work. The shaft seems the same otherwise but has a weird reverse screw on the bottom and no notch, and the hook and basket also seems the same except for the hook gib has a hook on it where the old one dosent. I suspect its slipping a little because of the lack of a locating notch or i still had the timing wrong. The one i was sold is a Hirose HSH-12-15MTR and i was told it would fit my machine and was labelled to fit a Juki Lu563 but looking into it, it seems its meant for a MITSUBISHI LT2-230M,2230M. No reason why i could not make it work with the proper timing but i just cant seem to be able to time it correctly. I was told mine needed to be replaced because the basket is a little lose but the hook looked in good shape otherwise. Should i even replace it? I will return the new hook regardless as its a lot of money for something that only sort of works. As mentioned above, it should work ok at slow speed and all of my missed stitches were at slow speed. I have a servo motor set pretty low and still it was skipping with the new Hook. I could not make it skip if i turn it by hand. As for the sizing of the needle and thread, 125 is the smallest i had so i used them. I have 120's for leather and 130 and 140 for the big stuff. I tried multiple needles as i thought it was a bent needle as well and still issues with brand new needles. Lastly, when putting it back together, i faced some of the pieces with a stone especially the Dog surface as it was worn sideways a bit and it seems to fit better now. Sorry for all the questions. This is my first walking foot machine (Besides the 29K) and i am slowly but surely getting familiar with how they work. Seems they are really Picky with Thread tension and Timing ETC.. Andre
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