paqman

Lol ok?!? sure. Thanks.

Nope, i just too many machines. I would love to keep them all but i already have multiple walking foot machines including the 29k71 and the 29k173 as well as my Juki LU563. If you know anyone whos looking for an Adler 67 let me know... I also have the 144W that i have for sale and i have a Mitsubishi DY340 that i am re-building for my dad. Additionally, i just picked up a Bonis Model A Furrier machine. Andre

I found the before picture for this machine:

Its done! for now.

I do now! totally makes sense with a larger hook i would need slightly more takeup... No matter... i have ordered the correct hook. thinking about it, someone with a machine shop could really modify this machine to do pretty much anything. This machine can also be modified using off the shelf parts. I have been thinking about getting a foot bar off of a 111W as its the same diameter and would allow me to use more common type feet. Andre

Ok more developments: The hook i bought is the HAD-267TR which really looks similar but the basket is different. It was 15$ so worth the risk. So to be clear for anyone looking to know if you can fit a 167 hook into a 67 to upgrade it to a large bobbin, the hook will fit and im sure the basket would also if i had the right one but the opener might rub and need to be modify or be replaced by an opener for a 167. The basket on the HAD-267TR is slightly taller and wont lock into the throat plate and hits the bottom of the slide plate so that wont work. BTW, HAD-267TR is used on a Adler 268-FA which is a post bed machine. this leaves me multiple options: 1- Just order the right hook (I did... ) 2- Order a basket for a 167 hook to see if it will fit and modify the opener to clear the hook. 3- Order a whole new hook for a 167 and see if perhaps the hook is slightly smaller and will clear the OEM opener 4- Experiment and see if a basket from a Juki LU 563 will drop into the HAD-267TR hook i have and use JUKI large bobbins (and make the opener fit) This rebuild is really going to cost me... Andre

sooooo i got the hook today. I ended up getting a hook for a 167 (Bigger Bobbin) instead and took a chance that it would fit as it seemed to be mounted the same way. I was right, it fits perfectly... the only thing that does not fit is the Opener. Looking at pictures, they look identical but mine rubs against the hook when i turn it so i suspect the opener for the 167 is slightly wider and allows for the larger hook. Can anyone confirm what the difference between both openers? Looking at the service manual, The opener for the 067 is 067001700 and the opener for the 167 is 0167001700. I thought about bending the opener out a bit to make room for the hook but im worried it wont work and maybe even break it. Thoughts?

Made the plate, and it looks good... Got a piece of Stainless and was able to file a nice angle on both sides and after a lot of filing, i got it to fit nice. Also ground the underside and it was not easy but it should work. I also received my Decals. Waiting for the Hook now.

Thanks! yep im waiting for the hook to get here so that i can figure out how much to gouge out... im thinking a forstner bit big enough to take off some material from the underside of the plate. Not sure how i would do this for the stainless one yet...

Thanks Everyone for the replies. Found a bunch of useful parts and im waiting for them to come in the mail. This includes new Decals as i decided the machine is nice enough to rebuild clean and repaint as most parts are there and its not worn out besides the throat plate and feed dog. I used some Hammer tone paint instead of the regular grey as i thought it would look really nice. The right slide plate is missing and i cant seen to find a replacement so i made one out of plexi glass for now. I may go to the metal supermarket and find a nice piece of stainless to make a new one.

Hi all, i have once again acquires more sewing machines. A Local factory is closing and they are tearing it down and they used to make chairs and seats and had lots of machines for sale. A few months back, i bought a few Juki walking foot machines including a LU-563 and LUH-521 as well as a 47W66. I have since sold the LUH double needle machine but kept the other 2. I talked to the owner a few days back and he made me an offer i could not refuse on the last 3 machines he had for sale, an Adler 67, Mitsubishi dy-340 and a Singer 144W (20 in long arm and huge bobbins, this thing is a beast!) The Adler is missing some parts and i need replacements. I would really like to restore it and get it back in working order as its a really nice machine and is mostly complete. The hook was there and was rusty and stuck so i started cleaning it and got it free and started working on cleaning it up and realized the hook is just snapped off. I can find hooks online but they are over 200$! if that's what i have to pay, fine but still, it seems steep. I am also missing the slide plate on the right side as well as a set of feet. There are parts available, but some are harder to find like the slide plate. Hooks are pricey, feet are all over the place and seem cheaply made. I read somewhere on the forum that there is a mod to grind the foot bar to accept 111W style feet? Where do you guys get your parts for Adler machines? There is no dealers locally, there used to be one but they closed down Andre

ok so i struggled to adjust everything and it kept jamming, turns out, my lever kept slipping sooo.... i stopped at the metal supermarket and bought some aluminum and re-made the lever. Much better now! I got enough to remake the other bracket also but it is locked in place and is solid so i may keep it.

Thanks! Yep i thought about that also! i have worked with alluminum before and it can easily be worked with woodworking tools... ill look into it. There is a metal supermarket near by, ill go and pick a few chunks and see what i can come up with...

thanks all! I have officially rebuilt it last night, see below. The parts fit perfectly. Im not loving the plastic parts but they work, i may still find some brass stock and remake them in brass, it would also look quite nice. My main concern is the set screws stripping the plastic so i was careful when tightening them down. I had to omit the tension spring that usually stick out next to the big adjustment knob as it was also missing (Most likely broke off like the other parts). I put a washer and screw in there to keep that dial from falling of the post. Luckily, i had this black spring and installed it between the lift rod and the existing hole in the casting, this keeps the knee lift tension rod down at all times so pushing the knee lift increases the sew width and allows it to return to centre when you let go. The lever i made is used to adjust how you want to sew (Width), left to centre, side to side, right to centre. I have to drill the 2 outer holes once i figure out the limits of the needle but doubt i would use those settings. There are limit set screws at the bottom that limit the side to side movement so the needle wont swing out too far. The large knob needs to be loosened to allow the knee lift to adjust sew width on the fly, if you tighten it, it sets the width and wont allow the knee lift to move. There is a right hand screw keeping the knob from coming off when loosened all the way which is a nice touch.

ok so i thought i should be able to make those parts in brass but could not find appropriate stock locally so i ended up getting some delrin and made the parts that way. Not perfect but it will get the machine functional. I also found that Singer made a 107G302 which used the same parts. Unfortunately, the lever is the same part and still unavailable and the other part is slightly different with part number 508202 but again, its not available. Lastly, i had a spare timing belt for a 107W1, part 224400, and figured it would fit, well, it wont. This machine uses a slightly longer belt, part number 224303. So i guess im using the old link belt till i figure something out.

Yes! so what you are saying is that i should go get myself a mini lathe and just make the parts? lol im on board. I thought about getting some brass stock and making the parts out of brass... It would look nice and be easier to work with... I also thought about 3d printing the parts and casting them in aluminum or brass using the PLA loss method. I have never used a lathe, 3d printer or done any casting soooo yea i have a lot to learn Andre

Thanks Quade, I agree. Thats why i recently replaced my 111W155 with a Juki Lu563... its not worn out and i dont have to mess with it to make it work. Also, large bobbins... Problem is that i cant leave well enough alone and i really enjoy restoring machines so every time i see that 107W102, i just want to fix and rebuild it. Andre

I am bumping this. I am still looking for parts... ill even settle for another machine for parts or something. I wonder if anyone out there has a bunch of Simanco parts sitting around and may have those parts? Thoughts? Anyone? Andre

Hi all, Not a Leather machine per say but i recently was given an old Singer 107W102. It looks in good condition but the head was clearly dropped and the top lever width adjustment and the bracket are broken clean off. I can find lots of parts for that model but not those parts. (224346 and 224347) Besides getting another parts machine or fabricating something, any idea where i can find something? Of course i checked the usual sites including Ebay and found nothing. Thoughts? Thanks!

Thank you Ole South! That is a looooot less than what i spend on the other hook even with the conversion rate (Im in Canada). So i just purchased it. Still dont know if i can return the other one but i need a hook regardless. Andre

All, thanks for all the great replies, Tried all of the above and i checked timing again. I think it was off. Still not working great so, for my own sanity, i took out the new hook and put in the old one and now its working as it should and not skipping. Full disclosure, i think i was sold the wrong hook. It fits but does not have a notch on the shaft so i had to eyeball it for timing and just slip it left or right to make it work. The shaft seems the same otherwise but has a weird reverse screw on the bottom and no notch, and the hook and basket also seems the same except for the hook gib has a hook on it where the old one dosent. I suspect its slipping a little because of the lack of a locating notch or i still had the timing wrong. The one i was sold is a Hirose HSH-12-15MTR and i was told it would fit my machine and was labelled to fit a Juki Lu563 but looking into it, it seems its meant for a MITSUBISHI LT2-230M,2230M. No reason why i could not make it work with the proper timing but i just cant seem to be able to time it correctly. I was told mine needed to be replaced because the basket is a little lose but the hook looked in good shape otherwise. Should i even replace it? I will return the new hook regardless as its a lot of money for something that only sort of works. As mentioned above, it should work ok at slow speed and all of my missed stitches were at slow speed. I have a servo motor set pretty low and still it was skipping with the new Hook. I could not make it skip if i turn it by hand. As for the sizing of the needle and thread, 125 is the smallest i had so i used them. I have 120's for leather and 130 and 140 for the big stuff. I tried multiple needles as i thought it was a bent needle as well and still issues with brand new needles. Lastly, when putting it back together, i faced some of the pieces with a stone especially the Dog surface as it was worn sideways a bit and it seems to fit better now. Sorry for all the questions. This is my first walking foot machine (Besides the 29K) and i am slowly but surely getting familiar with how they work. Seems they are really Picky with Thread tension and Timing ETC.. Andre

Hi Northmount, Thanks for the reply, Using Tex 70 with a 125 needle. using soft leather and some rubbery material. Played with the presser foot tension as you suggested and still i have issues. Did a bunch of tests with different thread and for a bit it was working fine but again, it started skipping. Put leather in there and again and its even worst... It was working better than that a few days ago... could my timing be slipping? Andre

Hi All, I recently purchased a well used Singer 111W155 locally. Came with an old singer table, GE motor and Singer Clutch. I transplanted it into a more modern table. It was sewing fine but seemed to be skipping stitches. So i went shopping for new parts. So far i replaced the Timing belt (Was not broken but seemed about to), Hook (The basket was loose), New Tension Disk set, new bobbins, new needles. I cleaned it and lubricated it, Timed it and it is still skipping stitches. I tried everything... new needles, different thread different material and feed speed and still no luck. It seems to work fine for a while then every once in a while, it skips a stitch, sometimes 2 or 3 then goes back to normal. This can happen consistently on test pieces with about 3 inches of stitch so its pretty bad. The machine is quite worn and the feed dogs and throat plate seems worn also. The foot is a narrow foot set and also seems to be worn. I suspect what is happening is that the hook is able to get the loop most of the time but due to the slop in the foot or dogs or throat plate, the needle deflects and its just enough to miss that loop. I keep playing with the hook adjustment to get it close to the needle scarf and it seems every time i look at it, its in a different position (Either too far or touching the needle). I thought about the worst, too much wear in the needle bar bushings or even worst a bent needle bar but im really thinking it needs new feet, a new throat plate and feed dog. Before i drive myself crazy and spend more money on parts, can anyone think of what i missed? Thank you!!!! Andre

Thanks Wizcrafts! Yes you are right, that spring needs to be there and in good condition. Luckily, mine is still fine. Good tip about keeping the screws int he same spot! Andre

Update to the topic, My dad came over last night, he also has a 29k71 and he gave me a few pointers that are quite useful. He also gave me a bunch of new 29-3 needles for it. Although they seem really basic, they were not obvious to me even after reading the manual: Problems sewing with one or the other hole in the throat plate could be due to the setting of the needle. needle could be installed slightly off centre, causing the loop not to catch. Also, you can adjust how close the needle gets to the shuttle by moving the second screw above the one that holds the needle ans adjust how close the needle gets to the shuttle when sewing. This makes for consistent stitches. This could also fix the problem of missed stitches. Also, needles could be too long, causing it to go too deep which could have been causing my prior issues. Looking at the needles i was using, they seemed slightly longer than the ones he gave me. I was of course using the needles that came with my machine. 1 was already installed and 2 were hidden in the oil cup. all were quite worn. Invest in needles before you invest in parts! Adjusting the take up lever on top of the arm could also help with making sure that enough thread is able to catch on the shuttle hook on the down stroke. this will also make sure that you get consistent stitches. All those are fine adjustments but can make the difference between a bad stitch and a really good stitch and could also solve issues. I also found that marking items off and eliminating problems one by one is a good way to find the root cause of your issues. Other things i have learned, and that i could not find the answer anywhere: Shuttle Carrier can have some slop in it without causing major issues. If you time the machine and find that you can move the shuttle carrier a little from side to side, that is normal. Too much slop would cause inconsistent stitches and misses stitches as the loop could be missed and timing would be flaky but some slop is ok. When sewing, the thread should be caught by the shuttle hook, brought over to catch the bobbin thread, pass between the shuttle/Bobbin and come back between the shuttle carrier and the shuttle through the tension spring to make a full stitch. It will not sew until that happens reliably. You can test this without using a bobbin or without having the throat plate installed. Timing does not have to be dead on for it to work. The manual says that on rest, the shuttle carrier should block the needle entry point at 1/3 but there is some give and take there. Refer to earlier point to test whether you can reliably get a good stitch. the throat plate, Shuttle, bobbin, shuttle carrier should be clean and free of burs and polished. I have used Autosol to polish my parts. Metal polish of any kind should really work. the smoother the parts, the better! Hope this can help someone get their machine working! Andre