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Red744T

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Everything posted by Red744T

  1. I just bought one from here last month. The machine is heavy, the thread guide post on mine broke during shipping so make sure it's packed properly for shipping. I also just replaced the presser foot cam with the missing roller today. Tippmann Industry is very helpful and both times I got my replacement parts in a few days. The machine cycles normally now and I will start familiarizing myself with the machine operation in the next few days. Looking at Tippmann's website I think there are four versions of Aerostitch, ie four different version of the manual is available for download, v4) Reverse v3) No Reverse v2) No Reverse + Needle Bar Return Button v1) Reverse + Needle Bar Return + Manual Needle down lever I think I have the v1 variant. Anyway, now that the machine is up and running I will familiarize myself with its operation over the next few days. Good luck with your search.
  2. Thanks to everyone for your input, from what I gathered, aerostitch can be more easily controlled in low speed sewing because it's pneumatically, ie one stroke of the pneumatic cylinder is one stitch. Where as the motorized sewing machine require finessing of the motor to achieve low speed controllability. I had quite a bit of problem controlling the momentum of a clutch motor when sewing leather with my brother sewing machine. It takes quite a bid of force to pierce the leather and often the momentum of the motor will carry over a few more sticheds because the machine stops. Though a servo motor has mostly sovled that problem. To be fair, I bought the servo motor from Artisan a few month ago and they were very helpful and friendly. Aerostitch prices are also generally lower, so for a newbie like myself there are two advantages for going with aerostitch. Also, Aerostitch seems to be able to sew through thicker material as well. My choice is pretty much down to either a Adler 205 or an Aerostitch. Are there anything that a Adler 205 can do but aerostitch can't and vise versa? Aerostitch seems like a fairly good machine but I wonder why Tippmann discontinued it while keeping the manual machine in production. Given the price of imported machines, why wasn't Aerostitch competitive enough to remain in production? John
  3. Hi Ed, I reposted the images from the other thread. I didn't make the holders. They came with the foil stamping machine we purchased. We don't do initials so we only use mounted copper dies in that machine. Those two letters in the holder also came with the machine. The holder in the image are part of a mechanical foil stamping machine that is held by cap screws, but for our pneumatic foil press, we hold the dies in place with thermal tape so in both cases, the dies travels with the moving press head. John
  4. Hi, from the previous thread in the for sale section, I am wondering if anyone has any input on the above three machines for a beginner. I search the forum and there are quite a few positive reviews on the Toro 3000 but it seems that the Adler 205, despite being older, can be just a trouble free as a newer machine. I didn't find that much information on the Aerostitch other than that it's pneumatic and is no longer in production. I've been praticing on a Brother 797 on and off for a few month. It came with a manual so I was able to adjust the timing and solve the problem of needle breakage during reverse, but I can't get enough upper tension with heavier threads so while the treads looks good on the upper side, the bottom side is a bit ugly. I also can not get the 797 to work reliably with 207 thread, the max is 138. Per reading the forum, I swapped out the clutch motor for a servo motor and it has drastically improved the controllability of the machine. Anyway, I want to start with simple flat leather projects, ie mouse pads, and progress to simple cased works, ie knife/key/cigar cases so I'm thinking about getting a clyinder arm machine for the versatility and also to use heavier threads. As much as I like to tinker with the Brother, sometimes I just want to sew without having to wonder if the ugly tread is a matter of technique or machine. I already have a good size air compressor for the foil stamping machines so air supply for the Aerostitch will not be a problem. Any suggestions on the above three machines? or something else completely? Thanks, John
  5. Ed, Does it look something like the following. It's basically a rectangular holder with socket head cap screws on one end to hold the initials in place. I don't know well they work because we usually only use mounted copper dies in place of the initial holder. How tall are your initials and how wide do you need the openings to be? How will you attach the holder to your press? Thermo adhesive film? screws? Maybe we can start a new thread at a different forum since I've strayed quite a bit from the initial topic. John
  6. Thanks everyone for the reply. As much as I dislike China, products made in China are a fact of life and at times unfortunately essential. I can still remember basic electronic products like power adapters being made in other part of the world, but now it's all China. They earned it with better quality and prices or just lower price. I'm one of those consumers who like to be lied to, I buy computers assembled in Mexico knowing full well that the components were made China but as long if it's stamped assembled in Mexico I feel a lot better. . . . Somehow I feel that if the machines are assembled in US or other democratic countries, we would at least have some control over the final manufacturing process and keep the possibility of future manufacturing alive. . . . maybe I went through one too may duck and cover drills when younger and I guess I haven't quite adapted to the "service economy" mindset. I look to Japan/Europe and I still see basic everyday items such as cameras, watches, and pens being made and I wonder why can't we do the same here in the US. Anyway, from reading the the forum I gather that Campbell Bosworth, Union, and Randal are all out of my price range. Tipperman Boss is a manual machine and I don't know how well it can scale up for production. Tippmann Aerostitch seems like a good candidate but I can't find any information on Tipperman website. How do the Aerostich, the Adler 205 currently for sale on a separate thread, and the Toro 3000 compare? I like the feel of heavier leather and heavier threads but my Brother 797 will only reliably sew up to 138 and I'm still having trouble getting enough upper thread tension. I want to start out making simple products such as mousepads, key trays and move onto small leather case products such as knive/pen/cigar/key cases. Thanks, John On a sidenote, I have a CNC milling maching so if anyone is intereted in making some sewing machine parts in the US, please let me know. However, I only know a little more about CNC milling than sewing but I'll do my best to accommodate any requests.
  7. I am not too fond of the Chinese government nor their brand of authoritarian capitalism. To be fair, they earned their 2 trillion through hard work and the quality on quite a few products made in China is excellent but still I would prefer to buy something that's made in a more democratic country. What alternative do I have? and what premium do I have to pay for a simple cylinder arm sewing machine that is made outside of China? I have a brother 787 I picked up locally for a fairly decent price and after stumbling across the leatherworker.net forum I added an Artisan servo motored on it. The servo motor allow me to better control my stitchings and really improved the sewing quality. The brother is great, but I am still having trouble increasing the upper thread tension with heavier thread and given the rave reviews on the cylinder arm machines and the advice to buy new for a beginner I was seriously considering an Artisan Toro 3000 or 4000 given that I thought it was assembled in the US. I may still end up with a Chinese made machine, but it's always nice to know what other options exists and if it's feasible to save for those alternatives. I don't mind Taiwanese made machines. Thanks, John
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