1Man

Hi, does anyone use DUALL #88 Cement and what's your opinion on it compared to the stuff you can get at Tandy's?

this works for the male piece of Line 24 snaps. McMaster-Carr part number 92220A152.

So, how do you go about finding where the stitch lines should go? For a new model that you are creating a design for do you trace the gun and then add half of the width of the gun to the outline? Or, has it just gone through trial and error like I'm going through until you get a good pocket template for each gun type?

Thanks guys, I appreciate your comments. Now that I look at some photos again the stitch lines do look a bit far from the gun. But, in person and when I'm forming the holster, those stitch lines feel pretty tight. I think I'll try bringing them in closer next time and see what happens. I think it will definetely look more sculpted. Depending on the holster I am either using 7-8 oz or 5-6 oz plus 2-3 oz lining. So, does this weight allow for stitch lines to be closer? I guess I'll find out. What are you guys using in terms of weight? With respect to the holsters you have pictured above, a few suggestions. It's not necessary to stitch where there's a single layer of leather. The only purpose it serves is for aesthetics. By leaving that off, it will save you time and labor (and sore fingers). Do as you did on a couple of the holsters - crease or groove a line around the edge. I don't actually have any places where I have stitched a single layer. All of the holsters pictured are lined with 2-3 oz tooling kip with the exception of the IWB for the J-frame. Plus, I think the tips of my fingers are starting to calice (sp?). I definetely have a few permanant ink spots where I've got my finger in the way. I guess I'll always learn the hard way.

Great info, thanks! I was thinking about focusing primarily on revolver carry holsters...I really don't see a whole lot of them out there. I also understand the importance of creating/building a holster that has a reason and is not just a copy of what's already out there. Specifically, the IWB design for the snubbie that I have started similar to the IWB for the Kimber above it. The problem i ran into with the holster for the Kimber is that, although it functions well and would probably work well for some people (skinny people that is) it just doesn't keep the butt of the gun close when moving around. So, my logical solution was to add more leather to the bottom of the holster. Understanding that the pivot point is where the snaps hold onto the belt as the bottom of the holster is pushed out the top of the holster and butt of the gun are pushed in towards the body. Problem solved. And, the snubbie owb design for the snubbie with the heavy cant was created by request of my wife who didn't like a straight up and down cant and wanted the gun to cant heavily forward like a SOB design. So i struggled with the design for a while because i could see how to attatch the left side of the holster but couldn't figure out an asthetically pleasing way to attach the right side until i let go of the idea that both front and back halves have to match. Plus, I think I saw your IWB design that uses a similar concept and I was able go from there. I had been searching for a way to change the inside of the holsters so it wasn't just a rough side in. I toyed with the idea of using different materials but, logically, the only good material is leather. I was looking for a contrasting color and like a side of tooling kilp that I found that had a nice cream color to it and thought it would go well with the light tan. So, I worked on the design to make sure my stitch holes line up when sewing the lining on and then attaching the front to the back. Also, since I'm hand stitching, I needed to make sure I took into consideration the back stitching that you do at the end to make sure it didn't end at a stitch hole that would be used again. So, I just wanted to respond to your comment by saying that I'm not just copying designs. I've genuinely reinvented the wheel, so to speak, and am going through the though process on what's working and what isn't. As you mentioned, there really isn't anything new, mainly variations on the same concepts. I agree with your comment on the belt loop holes. They could probably be a bit wider. I'm just trying to figure out a good way to make some clean holes. The loop punch works nice to make a clean cut so i may stick with the "punch" process but i may try other types of instruments to get a uniform look. Thanks again for the comments.

Thanks for the feedback and I appreciate you suggestions. I was thinking about increasing the spacing of the pocket to allow for a tension device with greater range. It makes it a more effective device I suppose. And I had the same concerns about the throat reinforcement. It's just that when I'm putting together the drawing, I feel compelled to have lines that merge together and it can be difficult to view the design in 3D as opposed to the 2D image on the paper. The future builds of this model will utilize a different band where the corners are cut back to avoid an issues with the leather pealing back or creating catch points. Thanks!

I thought that I would post some pics of what I've come up with since I've started reading this forum. Please let me know what you think. I've picked up a lot of information here and I'm hoping to learn a lot more. Thanks!

Hey Lobo, can you post a link to your site so we can take a look at some of your work? I'm curious to see what your stuff looks like. I tried a Googl search but didn't find anything. Thanks.

Well, thanks. I appreciate everyone's input. I have a question though regarding chrome tanned leather...why is it not a good material for holsters? I've read the response above and I've read it a thousand times that the tanning process uses chemicals that are harmful to metal. But, I have to wonder, do people just keep repeating this because it's what everyone else says? I'm sure the chromium salts would react in a negative way if applied directly to the metal but, (now, I'm not a chemist by any stretch of the imagination) aren't these chemicals used to initiate a chemical reaction that "tans" the leather? And, then they are neutralized. Also, how much of these chemicals remain in the leather that would transfer to the surface of the metal? I guess what I'm hoping for is some evidence that it is truly harmful for use in a holster. Has anyone used it and had negative results? Or, can someone provide some sort of reference that gives clear evidence of the negative effects? I'm not trying to be a pain in the rear, I'm just curious. And, no, I'm not going to try it myself and find out.

Hi, so this is my first post even though I've been hanging around for a while. The couple of holsters that I've made so far are unlined but are polished and finished to be relatively smooth. I have been thinking, though, of changing the way the inside of the holster looks. I am going to try and make one that is smooth lined but, I'm curious if anyone uses something other than leather to line their holsters. I could imagine that a holster lined with a plaid fabric would look interested. Maybe not everyone would like it but it would be different. I'm just wondering if it would hold up and exactly how I would finish it around the mouth of the holster. I can't have the ends just glued/sewed there. I would probably have to put some sort of mouth band around the inside made out of 2/3 oz leather. Any ideas/examples or am I just crazy?