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Just picked up a C clamp. Gonna give your method a go soon!

That looks great! Do you happen to have a picture of the clamp you use? Also, how long do you find you need to leave it clamped to obtain a good impression? Does this method only work on plain veg tan? I just ordered a stamp and until I can find an arbor press, I’ll be trying to stamp with just a hammer, possibly clamp.

Yes, I’m looking at making one out of the one piece, no bottom seam. Forgot to mention that earlier. Thanks for the link! I purchased the pattern/tutorial. I guess it’s more so a tutorial, as the pattern is not completely printable, but I get the idea of what’s going on. I’m going to end up increasing the size from his a bit. Thanks for the info, I’ll look into those patterns! Regarding the Nigel Armitage video on Vimeo, am I right in thinking it’s a subscription to the channel, not just a single video? Thank you to everyone who chimed in thus far!

Hi guys, I have some questions regarding tote bag dimensions. I’m getting ready/excited to tackle my first one. I will be using 5oz. Veg Tan for the body. I’ve been trying to look at peoples posts, pictures and videos to get ideas on patterns and sizes and to see what measurements and allowances I need to account for. I’m curious of how much width and height you generally lose off of your original pattern dimensions, after the bag is sewn and flipped back right side out. Looking at pictures, it seems most are in the 2-5” range on width? What exactly causes this dimensional loss? I want to make sure so I can start with the correct dimensions so I end up with the desired size. I’m hoping to be around 12-14” W x 12” H x 4-5” D. Also, if I’m doing the “T” or notched style bottom, if I go say 2.5” in from the edge, by 5” wide, does that mean the bags bottom will have a depth of 5”, or will some of that be lost during flipping? Is the 2.5” in from the edge the dimension that causes the overall loss on the final width measurements? I have searched through a bunch of tote bag posts but couldnt find anything for my particular questions I did notice though, that the Stohlman casing book has come up a few times. Would this topic be something that’s covered in there? Thank you!!

Thanks! So no problems with bleeding I assume?

Thank you!

Thanks for the reply! No, actually that didn’t cross my mind until reading your reply! But at the moment I only have water based black dye. EcoFlo water stain. So I’d imagine it would probably be pretty similar to the tinted Tokonole? Ill see if I can reach GoodsJapan through email and ask about it, then order a jar.

Hello everyone! I was wondering if any of you have experience with the black or other tinted Tokonole, and if so, what are your thoughts on it? Im currently using the clear Tokonole for edge work on wallets and have been enjoying the results compared to gum trag. I like the shiny/glassy finish it provides. I was interested in purchasing the black Tokonole for use on the edges of black leather (Buttero), both as a dye and for edge finishing. I currently can’t get ahold of something like Fiebings Pro Dyes for the edges since it can’t be shipped to me, and didn’t want to venture into edge dying just yet, so I was thinking the black Tokonole would be a good option. There’s one video on YouTube from GoodsJapan that shows them using the black Tokonole on the flesh side, and it seems to do a pretty good job at dying the leather. My concern is that since Tokonole is water based, that there might be some bleeding issues if the edges got wet? If so, I was thinking that adding a wax at the very end of burnishing could help with some water resistance, but at that point I might lose out on some of the shine/gloss that I currently like from the clear Tokonole. Perhaps something like Columbus Mill edge wax instead of beeswax would be best? Would the black Tokonole alone be okay without any bleeding issues? Please let me know of your thoughts and experiences, and thanks for looking!