vonL

I took antoher look at timing and clearances, and lowered needlebar a bit plus hook even closer to needle. Seems like it did the trick - sews like a dream now. Slightly embarrassing this - but at least the needle was right side towards the hook :-) thank You guys for all great input - this forum is the very best!

Update: changed to #22 needle, still splitting thread, seems like when this occurs, it also skips stitches. Hook does not catch top thread. I adjusted hook and needle timing plus hook-needle clearance, but still... Did manage to patch the tent together, but no fun..... Please bear with me, I am doing mostly fabric work as of lately, but this forum is by far the best (and the only?) on technical Q&A on industrials. I am working on a pair of jeans, so - new needle and thread today. Guterman extra heavy, 110/#18 needle should be right? I am using 134R/135x5 needles, so lowered needle-bar and adjusted hook-needle timing and clearance. And again, plenty of skipped stitches and thread splitting. Fun thing is, this always occurs after a while, not immidiately. I am clueless, again...

Thanks, will try a larger needle

I am going over the seams on a boat cockpit "tent" (dont know the right word in english) using my 111w153. I am using coats double duty aw cotton-wrapped poly core, tkt 25/tex 120 thread, schmetz 135x5 #18 needle. About half way lnto the job the machine has started breaking the top thread eveey 25-30 cm. I believe the hook is splitting the thread, so I dialed in the hook as close to the needle as I could, but it still breaks. I am clueless and frustrated.

Yes, the seller was reluctant to pass me the info:-) thank You for the fast reply, not the machine for me then:-)

Hi all - does anybody know what kind of singer machine this is?

How come You have to set your machine up when You go from leather to canvas/denim? Slack/worn parts leading to it not meeting factory specs?

Here is a short clip of what's going on. The canvas is 4 layers thick on both edges of the piece, 2 layers in the middle. Notice how the knock fades and is more or less gone when I'm sewing in the middle. The canvas I'm using is quite soft, I'd say it is comparable to 14oz denim in thickness. I think my singer 201k or any decent commercial sewing machine would have no trouble going through this with a #18 needle and high rpms. I'll do some investigating this weekend, and post my results

Almost exactly on the needle's upward movement, regardless of stitch length, but without a doubt affected by material thickness. At first I thought it had something to do with timing, or the hook or bottom thread, but when sewing with the coverplate open everything seems fine. Mysterious....

I dont know, it did not cross my mind to check, will give it a go tonight. It sews fine, no problems. I am hoping to figure ut out before something breaks

Hi all! My singer 111w153 has developed a knocking sound when sewing. It seems like material thickness is what's causing the knock, as it nearly dissapears when sewing thin stuff. I think the knock is coming from the horizontal shaft in the machine arm, maybe where it's connected to the outer foot rocking mechanism, but i am not certain of this. It's been sitting unused for a couple of months, until last week. I am sewing a carvers apron in medium to heavy cotton canvas, roughly 5mm thick when hemming double folded edges. Neck strap and chest panel is 1.8mm soft tempered vegtan, sewn flat against a single layer of canvas. I am using correct needles, and #92 thread, machine is well oiled. Can try to post a video this weekend.

I am still searching for that presser bar thumb screw - I ordered one from a juki lu562, but it did not fit, it is a hair too thick. I am selling the machine and in need of the right screw. Is there any chance someone on the forum that can sell me one? Or knows the thread and size of the screw? Can Anyone confirm that the screw from a seiko stw8 fits the singer 111w155? Or this one for a consew: Presser Foot Screw, Consew #10708

Here she is - pretty in grey wrinklepaint. Only done a few passes in 10oz denim and all is well so far, but the p.o has sewn a 1 cm thick sail with it. I'd never dared, that stuff was severely thick and stiff. She'll have a easier life with me. I'll have to clean up some very sticky gunk which is everywhere but the outside. I suppose it is a lubricant or grease of some kind. I dont know about the bearings, they sound worn. Or at least this machine (not the motor) makes more noise than my 155 and 153, which have no bearings (?). I need a front slide plate, it's gone missing. Anyone know the part nr for the front slide plate?

Yes, I've sent an email, unfortunately they have not, and informed me that it is no longer in production. I suppose any screw with the right thread should do the trick, but would not have the same esthetic as an original/repro.

That's not the one I'm afraid. The one I'm searching is stepped, and shorter. Around 3 centimeters total. Attached is a picture of the one from my 111w153

Yes, they have no thumbscrew for the presser bar either, and I can't find any vendor that has one. Funny, can it really be that rare?

I'm searching for the faceplate and thumbscrew for a 111w155 - i.e triple feed

Thanks for the replys:-) i agree that there seems to be little differance between the two model s. But the 155 i supposed to have a slightly higher lift, according to ismacs. There is very limited vintage singers around in Norway, and most are quite pricey actually:-) PS! I am in need og the thumbscrew that compresses the spring on the inner foot presser bar. Can't find it anywhere online for a decent price. Anyone has one for sale? I am also looking for the side cover plate/faceplate. And 1 front slide plate for attachments for the 112 series

Am in need of the thumbscrew that compresses the spring on the inner foot/vibrating foot presser bar. Cant find this part anywhere for sale. Hoping someone has one and is willing to sell. Also interested in face-plate/cover on the side of the moving parts. Also interested in middle slide-plate for singer 112 series

Is it needle feed only, or does it also have feed dogs underneath the foot?

Thank you again - I might keep them both, and buy the 112 if I can. One last question - is all parts interchangeable between us-made and germany-made 112's? Or does the germany-made use metric nuts etc?

Thank You both :) what would be the difference between the 140 and the 141? The ability to reverse? The 141 comes with a table and motor. I had a look at ismacs.com, but could not find any specifics. I think my machines are quite similar in terms of condition - seen a lot of use and love (well, I love them at least). The main difference between 153 and 155 is foot lift and max stitch length?

I have both a singer 111w153 and a 155. Got offered a trade-in for a singer 112g141. The question is, should i keep the 153 or the 155? And i can't find any good info about the 112g141 - anybody got info?

First, I know this forum is for leatherwork, and that sergers are not in the right category - but I am in need of some help with info on a Rimoldi Stella ZB serger/overlock. I might buy one for sewing fabric, but can't find any info online, about servicing, adjusting etc. I'm guessing there are many similar machines, like Singer, Taima etc, but would really appreciate any help/info. Best regards and apologies for posting in the wrong kind of forum (leather, not fabric) Stefan

Thanks wizcrafts! Yes, it appears to sew just fine with system 135x5, and thickness is so far no problem. And, thanks to Uwe's YouTube-videos I know how to adjust and time the hook and needle should I need to adjust for system 135x16/135x17:-)