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Do I need to take anything else off? I assume i need to bend only that small section of the shaft that is sticking out?
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Thanks Mike. How strong is the shaft. I.e. is there any risk of it snapping?
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Heres a link to the video. At the end when I am spinning the machine pulley by hand is after I loosened the screws that hold the hand wheel to the shaft. I.e. the pulley/hand wheel is not driving the shaft. Seems like it is not the hand wheel to me. Are there any other areas that could be adjusted that might fix and if not what do I need to replace? If anything at all. Will I damage the machine/servo if I continue as is?
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Thanks for your reply and advice. What causes the wobble? Is it just wear and tear? What part actually needs straightening, the shaft and can I not just replace that? The wobble is transferred to the servo motor. I.e. I can see the wobble in the servo pulley too and I'm concerned it will damage the motor. Or do you think it's fine?
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Hi everyone I recently bought an old Seiko LSC 8BV machine with servo motor and just noticed that there is a wobbling motion in the machine pulley. I.e. if you look at the machine pulley while sitting at the machine and then run the machine the pulley doesn't spin 100% straight, it wobbles quite a bit. I tried taking the belt off and turning the machine pulley by hand and I can still see/feel the wobble. Any idea what this could be and how I can adjust/fix it? Thank you!
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Hi everyone This is a follow on thread from a previous thread where I was asking for advice on a PFAFF 335: I have subsequently found a Highlead GC2268 cylinder arm machine that seems to be in good condition. From what I have read it seems like the Highlead is a copy of the PFAFF 345 which is a more powerful machine than the 335 and it has a stitch length of up to 6mm (the Pfaff only goes up to 4mm). I'm wondering if the Highlead would be a better bet for me or if the Pfaff is better? ( I'm trying to find a machine that will sew leather totes, handbags, purses/wallets, belts, etc. in veg tan (2 to 3mm). I like the look of a thick top stitch stitch but I know that machines are limited in terms of needle size and thread. ) I've attached some pics of the machine. Thanks
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Thanks for your replies guys. This helps a lot. When you say B class is for lighter materials do you think it will still work with veg tan or is this a furniture leather type machine only? If the latter then I read somewhere that it is only classed as lightweight because of the needle plate hole size and if foot type. Is that true and if I changed those would I then be able to use veg tan and thicker thread? I would go and test it out but the machine is quite far from where I live. Thanks
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Hi everyone First time posting. Looking for some advice on purchasing a sewing machine. I have limited experience with industrial machines and had an old Juki I used for some denim projects a long time ago but nothing when it comes to leather. I'm trying to find a machine that will sew leather totes, handbags, purses/wallets, belts, etc. in veg tan. I like the look of a thick top stitch stitch but I know that machines are limited in terms of needle size and thread. I managed to find an old Pfaff 335 that is part of a leather garment studio that uses furnishing leather and I'm looking for advice in terms of whether or not its a good beginner machine to learn on and hopefully be able to get through a few layers of 2mm to 3mm veg tan (or more?) with a decent thickness of thread. I've tried o look for the manual online without any luck and I'm struggling to find complete info on the letters and numbers in the model. I found a few but not all.. And finally, it seems like it has a servo motor but not sure and if so how slow can this machine stitch as it says 500 to 2500 rpm. Seems like 500 is still quite fast!? :) I've attached some photos if that helps. Thanks in advance for your help!