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About Loudcherokee

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    Tennessee, USA
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    Just getting started

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    All of it!
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  1. I have set it up, but have been having difficulty running 207. I can get it to do a half decent stitch with a size 24 needle and 207 in a single layer of 5/6 ounce oil tan but it won't stitch in a single layer of 8/9 ounce veg tan. Im still fooling with it but have set it aside for now due to the frustrations it was causing. LC
  2. I have a round knife by Al Stohlman I believe. I'm still practicing with it. I do use it to cut out my holster shapes and stuff on thick veg tan. I haven't thought to use it for the thinner stuff. I have a Japanese skiving knife too but can't seem to keep a good edge on it. I use a piece of 8/9 veg tan with green Rouge on the soft side to strop. I beveled these edges with a #2. Ive got a beveler kit that goes up to 5 I believe. I still need practice with alot of these specialty tools. Thats what all these little projects are. This wallet is only the 5th or 6th thing ive made. Still trying to learn along the way. LC
  3. Not harsh at all thank you for taking time to provide feedback. I do use a straight edge to cut my lines, but this particular skin was slippery! Halfway through my cut the straight edge slipped. Also, I was using an aluminum straight edge. I need to get a good steel one. On one cut, I actually cut into the straight edge with my blade. Wouldnt have happened with steel. I've thought about punching my holes before assembly, but fear that due to my cutting habits, my holes will not line up once I'm ready to stitch. The templates I used for this wallet actually had the stitching holes marked too, but I did not use them, instead opting for wing dividers on that glary surface. Hindsight, eh? As for a creaser, I have a set of 4, and honestly cannot figure out how to get them to work. The creases on the pockets you see have been gone over multiple times and are still faint. Ive tried heating them with a torch lighter, and still no luck. Also, have a very difficult time running them straight. I did leave room for trimming after final assembly, and feel like this one came out way better than my first 2 attempts at a wallet. After everything is assembled I smooth and flush the edges with a belt sander mounted up in a clamp on my workbench. I also have a drum mounted up in my dremel on a drill press stand. I think here I need to get some finer grit paper and try to finish the edges better that way. LC
  4. Nice! I've been thinking of doing a paddle holster as well, but I have a kydex pull off from an uncle mikes holster that I was planning to use. I feel your pain as a fellow lefty and not having many options out there. LC
  5. Nice! Is the paddle just stiffened leather or is there something sandwiched between layers of leather? LC
  6. This is my first experience with any "exotic" skins, and I really enjoyed it. Ostrich was different to work with. Hard to see stitch holes and stitch lines in the glossy black, but smooth as butter to stitch through. I made this one for myself to match a pair of ostrich foot boots I have. My boots are black cherry however, so I may make another in the future if I can find some black cherry ostrich foot. The bill pocket is 2-3 ounce veg tan, and interior is a mix of 1-2 ounce black lining cowhide, 2-3 ounce veg tan, and ostrich. Of course, open to critiques. Im still learning to cut a straight line, but I'm getting better. I do wish I could get that nice offset stitch where each stitch is at an angle, but not sure what I'm doing wrong here. I stitch towards myself, starting with the left needle, put through, make a cross, pull threads towards me, return right needle behind thread in hole, then pull down with left hand and up with right hand to tighten. My stitching chisels are diamond shaped so the leave the angled diamond hole. LC
  7. Looks good! Ditto on the pull the dot snaps for holsters though. Adams leatherwork was the first YouTube video I watched that got me wanting to get into this hobby! He does great work and makes it all look so effortless! LC
  8. Hey guys! Excited to complete this project to go along with the belt I recently did. Its my first time doing any kind of wet molding and it went great! This is also the first thing I've sat down with a piece of card stock and measured, sketched, and planned my own design. I think it turned out pretty well. My stitch lines are getting better. Im doing better cutting straight lines. Ignore the circle stitched in the back! When wet forming, apparently one of my snaps wasn't set right and it popped off, so I had to cut my stitches and re-stitch the loop, but since it was originally stitched to the front panel, and that was already stitched, I had to go all the way through when I fixed it. Open to criticism and critique of all kind! LC
  9. Just from my experience, be very careful with the dremel lol. That little drum gets away from you pretty fast and can cut big gouges before you realize it. With that said, I use a combination of a dremel, mounted in the Dremel drill press stand, and a belt sander. I'll have to invest in some higher grit sandpaper soon. LC
  10. Thanks for the follow up. In regards to edge kote, I slick my edges with either tokonole or gum trag. Would the edge kote affect that at all? I've never used it and I was under the impression that you use edge kote to burnish your edges instead of gum trag or other methods. LC
  11. Are you referring to sanding the edges or the surface of the leather? LC I just use the fiebings pro dye on my edges, and not edge kote. Does that still apply with the paper towel? The inside is treated with neats foot. Would running alcohol take the dye off? LC
  12. A belt has been on my list of projects I want to do, and I finally wrapped it up today. I do not have a machine capable of sewing thick thread on thick leather, so this whole thing is saddle stitched by hand. About 9 hours worth of stitching. This is only my 4th of 5th leathercraft item so I'm still a little slow at stitching. The belt is 2 layers of 7/8 ounce veg tan strips that were pre cut at 1.5" thick. 4mm stitch spacing and ritza tiger 1mm thread was used. Finished in black with a natural inside, finished with neatsfoot oil. There is some slight waviness in my stitch line. Im still getting the hang of using the stitch groover. Ive been getting better with the wing dividers, but I wanted a groove on the belt so the stitches would set in at the surface. This is intended to be a gun belt for every day carry. Edges beveled with a #4 and burnished with tokonole, then the whole thing finished with resolene. I think next time I do one of these, and want to leave the inside natural, I will cover the inside with masking tape. I handled this belt ALOT during all the stitching, and there was some dye rub off from my fingers to the natural interior. I used a wool dauber to top off the edges, and don't have a clean line on the inside. Im open to suggestions on how to do edges better and cleaner. Open to critiques for any and all errors noticed. Im still learning and would appreciate the feedback. LC
  13. I don't believe the seller does, but there is a tack shop that has a few replacement parts. The stitcher was a gift so I'm not 100% sure who the seller was. LC
  14. Well I'll still give it the good ole college try when the bigger needles get here. It made that one row of stitching with the 207 beautifully. If it doesn't work, I will move on to the 138. Is 138 up top and 92 in the bobbin strong enough for a double layer 7-8 ounce belt meant for carrying a gun edc? If not I guess I'm stuck saddle stitching a 42" belt. Can ya'll recommend an affordable machine capable of stitching 207 in 16 ounces of leather that is under the $500 mark? I cant justify $2k on a machine that is right now just a hobby. LC
  15. I'll check into that. Im sure ive got something laying around that will work. Ive read of people using plasti-dip on the foot as well. I just ordered some size 24 needles in the recommended 135x16 size. Looking forward to hopefully getting this thing running correctly. I have removed several burrs from the machine already, but haven't given any special attention to the thread path. The bobbin hook is quite sharp. Enough to produce an "ouch" if I grab it incorrectly. So if I get this thing up and running, realizing the bobbin may not hold enough thread to stitch a whole belt, what would be the best way to refill the bobbin mid-stitch? Back stitch a few stitches then keep going? Or will that cause a jumbled mess of thread? Or what about using a smaller size thread in the bobbin, say a 138 and the 207 up top? LC
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