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OldNSlowMarine

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Posts posted by OldNSlowMarine

  1. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, muzzleblast said:

    Jason,

    Dwight's approach seems fine.  But, I have used Plastic Wood in the past for such.  You have to clean the bluegun before applying the PW.  Once it dries, a little time with a file / Dremel dresses it up nicely.  Fairly durable.  Wouldn't use it with a hydraulic press, tho.  Hand molding only. 

    I am a  hobbiest, and have enjoyed making a lot of "custom", one-off projects.  I don't charge much for my work.  However, I have learned that sometimes, it is best to say no.  Firstly, you will irrevocably alter a $60 bluegun.  And, may as well figure the cost of the bluegun and materials required to alter the bluegun.  And your time customizing the dummy gun.

    Your work is exceptional.  I am sure you won't be satisfied with less than stellar results.  But, hey, if the guy owns a owns a vintage Armond Swenson, or Jim Hoag, or other such custom iron and is willing to handsomely pay for some finely crafted leather, I'd go for it.   Good luck.

    Muzzleblast.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Thank you Gordon! I was able to find an aluminum 4.25-inch mold. Speaking with the gentleman I bought it from, he recommends JB Weld steel putty. Hopefully it'll hold for a while. I don't have a press so hopefully it'll hold up to my hand-molding. It should last longer than some of the 'yellow' molds anyway lol. It's one of those things that I'm only doing it because I have an itch that needs to be scratched. I'm seeing all these folks picking up the S.A. Emissary 1911s and I can't make a holster for them. I may never be able to unless Blue Guns starts making a mold, but I'm going to give it a try. 

     

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Up for sale is a "like new" Cobra Class 26 sewing machine from Leather Machine Co. I bought this machine in May 2021 for $2,354.00 USD. I am looking to sell outright for $2,200.00 USD. I will also consider trades for either a Cobra Class 3 or Cobra Class 4. Other brands will be considered as well. 

    No shipping.

    I will consider delivery up to 4 hours driving distance from Richlands, NC 28574. If delivery is requested, a non-refundable deposit of $500.00 USD plus an additional delivery fee of $200.00 will be required. 

    This machine has only been used during initial set up and one test holster. I am so used to operating my Class 4 that I just don't like the 26. I have decided that I would just rather have another Class 4 or a Class 3 set up to do what I want instead of the Class 26. 

    Pick up price: $2,200.00 USD

    Delivery price: $2,400.00 USD ($500.00 non-refundable deposit required)

    Additional pictures are available (I was limited here by file size)

    Please contact me direct:

    Jason Ingle

    Ingle Gun Leather

    910-333-6305

    jasoningle@inglegunleather.com

    273946836_703092154213165_1208258244857471549_n.jpg

  6. Posted · Report reply

    14 hours ago, JSage said:

    Although Dwight's Solution would probably be stronger, I too didn't want to permanently alter my blue gun. So, took a chunk of hard wood and rough shaped it ( on the belt sander) then finish trimmed it with my pocket knife to final shape so that when placed on the front of the round guard, it mimicked the Squair guard on my son's pistol. I temporarily attached it with contact cement and used black tape to secure it. Worked for me. The tape and glue came off without much effort and a little rub down with peroxide cleaned up what little residue that was left.

     

    "An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it."
    -Col. Jeff Cooper

     
     

    Do you have a picture?

    11 hours ago, Dwight said:

    Glad to see I'm not the only redneck on here  This makes at least 3 of us . . . 

     

    Do you have a picture Dwight

  8. Posted · Report reply

    18 hours ago, AzShooter said:

    Maker's Leather .com has the 1911 with the squared trigger guard.

     

    Do you mean Maker's Leather Supply? If so, I'm not seeing it. They only carry Blue Guns. Blue Guns does not produce a 1911 with a square trigger guard. They make a Staccato 2011 which has a square trigger guard. But that's not at all what I want. Big difference between Springfield Emissary 1911s and the Staccato 2011s.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, AzShooter said:

    Super detail.  I like this holster a lot.  You really nailed molding it.  I use vacuum bags and they just don't give that much detail.  I'm thinking of buying a better vacuum.  Mine is just an old shop-vac.

    Is it hand stitched as well?  Nice stitching.

    Thank you! No, I don't think I could hand stitch much anymore. I use a Cobra Class 4. 

  12. Posted · Report reply

    8 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

    No fair double dipping :whistle:

    I don't go that deep in the port simply because i dont' want anything "catching" on it.. I want the holster to slightly "smooze out" the profile - like the snow fills a ditch - so it doesn't catch shirts, pockets, etc.. and telegraph that it's there.

    Holster looks good, though ... and nuthin' I said should be taken as "negative" or "bad" ... just each his own.  I AM wondering how you got the trigger area so F L A T ... ;)

     

    It was pushed out some from the inside after molding. Draws just fine. With the flat side of a Tandy stainless steel folder.

    https://tandyleather.com/products/craftool-pro-foldercreaser-stainless-steel

  16. Posted · Report reply

    On 8/13/2021 at 5:46 PM, tsunkasapa said:

    I don't DIP anything except chips. Everything is done with a dauber or a rag. I don't have the space or resources to have a "dip area".

    I have five five-gallon "liquid rated" buckets in my dye area. The set up didn't extend beyond the area I was already working in though. The buckets are set up next to my work bench. Out of the bucket-onto the work bench. I work out in my garage, so that helps with space. I definitely would not recommend doing this indoors.  

  17. Posted · Edited by OldNSlowMarine
    spelling error     · Report reply

    On 7/26/2021 at 11:11 AM, YinTx said:

    I am glad I revisited this post.  I had a similar experience just recently with mahogany pro dye, but with sheepswool applied resolene.  And I used 50/50 water/resolene mixture!  Going to run a sample piece with your suggested % mixture to see if that helps.  My leather was 10 0z Hermann Oak, firmest piece of HO I've ever had.

    YinTx

    I should've mentioned before, but I'm using Angelus dyes and acrylic #605. I don't know how the Fiebing's will react. I know when I first tried dip-dyeing with Fiebing's, I didn't like the results at all. I've gotten much better results with Angelus products.

  18. Posted · Edited by OldNSlowMarine
    spelling error     · Report reply

    On 7/5/2021 at 1:22 PM, muzzleblast said:

    OldNSlowMarine,

    Thanks for sharing the results of your experiments.  I have been hand applying the acrylic with a 1" foam brush 5 - 6 coats, waiting for coats to get tacky between reapplication.  Gives a nice finish but is really not time efficient.  I'm going to give dip coating a try.  To keep from making a large batch, I think I'll try out these containers.  Tall, wide and deep enough for the largest pancake I make.  I gal. capacity.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8ZUV5Oube /ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3MFA6X0A6DLFT&psc=1

    Sorry for the late response, I haven't checked the site in a while. Eric Larson of HBE uses some shallow containers https://youtu.be/Xm4nIQj46L0 . Keeping it in 5 gallon "liquid rated" buckets has been working well so far. No pouring back into a jug and the bucket has a rubber seal to keep it airtight. 

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I have a variety of leather for sale. Thickness ranges from 1 ounce to 5 ounces. Some are high quality Italian leathers, embossed alligator print leathers, Horween, etc. Please email me at jasoningle@inglegunleather.com to initiate contact. I'm motivated to clear out some shelves so this will be a good deal.

    FB_IMG_1624805347733.jpg

  22. Posted · Edited by OldNSlowMarine
    spelling error     · Report reply

    7 hours ago, PastorBob said:

    Very nice.  Did you use a backing for the shark or is it applied straight to the holster?  What did you use to edge burnish the shark?

    Thank you! Yes, I used a leather backer for the shark. Once the glue has dried, I cut the excess shark off, sand even, crease for stitch line. Edge as you would any other leather, then dye. For burnishing, I use Barry King's Quick Slick, followed but black Brillant Yankee Wax, then buff with horsehair brush. After all that it gets glued in place. Oh, I hold off on sanding and edging the top until after I have stitched it into place, then repeat that whole process.

    Screenshot_20210617-150700_Chrome.jpg

  24. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, Josh Ashman said:

    I think I'm following what is being asked and the process but I have no idea why the edges being glued with Barge are coming apart. 

    It sounds like you're making "western" type holsters where you have 1 piece of leather folded over on itself with a main seam. You are also using a liner so at your main seam you have 4 layers of leather. I'm going to assume that the total thickness of your leather(outer and liner) is 12 oz. or less before you fold it over to make the pouch of the holster. I do this a lot and use Barge to hold it all together without issue.

    My process sounds a lot like yours, any grain to grain side gluing gets the glued area roughened up. I apply the glue to both sides and let it sit for a few minutes. then I press the glued edges together. Here I get a lot simpler than what you are describing. Once the glued surfaces are pressed together by hand I tap them down on my tooling block with a smooth face hammer. I "tap" hard enough to make my wife mad if she's in the house but not so hard as to leave a noticeable impression on the finished surface. At this point pulling the seam apart tends to separate the leather rather than the glued seam. From there I sand, stitch gouge and sew. When I hand sew I use an awl to make the holes but instead of stabbing them horizontally when I have the item clamped in my stitching horse I stab them straight down with the item on one of those hard rubber pads over the top of a cutting board. Going straight down helps me to keep the back looking tidy and uniform. When hand sewing I have to wear light leather gloves with the just the tips of the fingers cut off. Otherwise I cut my pinky fingers to ribbons as I pull the thread tight until my hand slips on it, which makes the cuts. I saddle stich with 2 needles, right needle goes through to the left, then left to the right, then with the needles between thumbs and index fingers my hands go around the thread and I pull the stitch tight until the thread slips where it runs through the bottom of my hands, AKA the pinky finger cutting operation. If machine stitching I'll just go to the machine after gouging. No clamps, boards or 24 dry times unless it just happens that I leave something that long between gluing and sewing. And, I've never had a problem with a glued and sewn seam coming apart after the fact. Maybe try more glue?

    Brother, that's a lot of good feedback. I'm done until a picture is posted though lol

  25. Posted · Edited by OldNSlowMarine
    spelling error     · Report reply

    I've made one before. I used a roll of coil steel feeler gage stock to do it. I forget what thickness it was. Might have been 0.015 inch? I'm not sure how the mass producers of these do it, but I centered it between two layers of 8 ounce Hermann Oak single belt bend strips. I didn't punch holes in it for the buckle holes, just got somewhat close to the last hole. Not sure if they do or not. Last I heard, the customer liked it.

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