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Jholden0

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About Jholden0

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    Member

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  • Location
    Maryland
  • Interests
    Leather, leather tools, leather dye, leather paint, leather pants.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Watch straps
  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing machines
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  1. Thank you, I ordered the bushing after validation that it is correct. Also, you are correct about the diameter of my needle bar. Thank you again for your help. I owe you.
  2. Constabulary, can you please help me. I thought that the setup I posted above would work. But to my dismay, it was another disaster with this machine. I do have the original needle bar machine. It's 8.5 mm in diameter. I have ordered 8 needle bars total and I am at a complete loss. The needle bar clamp is too large for the 111 needle bar. Do you happen to have the part number for the needle bar you used? I can figure out the bushing hopefully. But this machine is close to being smashed down into scrap. Haha. Please, please help.
  3. One other thing I have noticed, is that setting the stitch length to the largest stitch and even the one just smaller than the longest, creates a situation where the stitch length collar seems to slide off. I don't know if this is related.
  4. I recently purchased a 29k72 shoe patcher. It is in overall great condition visually and appears to be well taken care of. I installed a servo motor and was able to use the original treadle pulleys to a.run the machine and b. Since there are two sets of pulley, I used them as a speed reducer of sorts. I am having a few issues getting started however. One issue is that the walking/feed foot does not drop consistently and gets stuck even after cleaning and re oiling. It also doesn't fully compress the leather and feed it through the machine. I have tried adjusting the wing nut to lower the foot and also tried adjusting the pressure with the pressure adjustment knob. The second issue is that when starting a stitch, there is a point in the rotation of the crank, where it becomes very hard to turn the cranking mechanism. Videos I have seen online seem to show operators effortlessness cranking by hand. Not only is hand cranking a chore at that one point, the motor sometimes stops turning when using the servo. I know some of my explanations are vague, but does anyone have any tips or suggestions? I can upload a video or add some photos if necessary. Thanks in advance!
  5. It's actually not a sewing machine part. It's a bushing that I found with very similar dimensions. I'm attaching a photo of it and I'll also add the link. I purchased quite a few from Aliexpress. I had to stick it into the chuck of my drill press and file it down about 1mm. Now there may be something out there that doesn't require filing. However, based on my research, and not having access to a lathe, this was the best option for the 111w needle bar. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLsNiS7
  6. In reference to the needle bar guides, I have found a bushing that is the perfect length and almost perfect diameter. I sanded it down a little to reduce the diameter and it works very well. If you are interested, I can send you the link. It drops into the guide hole on top and wedges itself in place. The inner diameter is prefect as is for the singer 111w needle bar.
  7. It seems that Zermatt is mineral tanned? Which I have never heard of.
  8. The liner is Zermatt from Haas. So I guess it's possible that it is not fully Veg tan leather. Not sure what process they use.
  9. No offense taken. I wouldn't have asked if I wasn't looking for honest feedback. There are a few more questions I want to ask in response though. I only use .45 waxed round poly or linen thread. I have been unable to find anything smaller. Do you have a suggestion for thread? As to the quality of leather, all of these straps, were made from the following tanneries: Badalassi Carlo, Walpier, La Perla Azzurra, Horween, Sedgwick, Wicket and Craig and La Bretagna. I have been told these were decent quality leather tanneries. What should I use and what should I look for when selecting leather for watch straps? I use only veg tan so I can totally understand the finishing of the edges. These are kind of inconsistent. I tend to forget to burnish the keepers and the strap pin bar holes. However, the edges are not finished other than burnishing. Some of the leather used is the white waxed "fog" or "ghost" leather from Walpier. It is supposed to give the leather a faux rustic look as the finish scratches off with wear to reveal a much more vivid color of leather. I take no offense to any criticism. I wouldn't even call myself a novice and couldn't even hold a candle to many of the skill sets of members of this forum. I appreciate any advice or criticism you can give.
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