Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Yogeri

  1. Thanks to everyone who shared knowledge! I actually decided to get a Cowboy CB341… so I’m sure I’ll probably ask a whole new batch of questions when it arrives as I learn to master it!
  2. Thanks Tejas, I appreciate the tutorial. I’m only familiar with bottom loading bobbins, and wonder if there are other advantages to top load as well? Do they generally offer more capacity? Allow thicker bottom thread? Stitch better with varying thicknesses along a seam (like going over seams whilst seaming)? Or are both types of bobbin orientations pretty much the same in basic functionality, aside from the differences stated so clearly above? I’m convinced the Juki is a better machine, I just wish the ‘N’ could handle #207 polyester like the Consew. My 31-17 maxes out with 138 top/92 bottom, and will only sew up to around 1/4” of firm tempered leather, I want to be able do more than that! thanks for helping, I really appreciate it!
  3. Kgg, I thank you for your detailed reply. From my limited experience with industrial/leather sewing machines I sort of want the Juki 1508 for the quality of the tool. But, because it was used in an upholstery shop AND it’s not officially rated for thread heavier than 138, I’m mostly leaning toward a new Consew 206. I’m very mechanically inclined, have become quite familiar with tuning and changing parts in my Singer 31-17 (which I bought as a head only, now it rests in a sweet vintage table I rehabilitated, complete with a new servo) and my basket case Singer 151W2 that with a new hook and modified to fit feet still isn’t up to the tasks that I ungratefully asked of it, I’m not deterred by a used machine. I’m just not certain the Juki in this case is going to be the best decision. I may take your advice and see if the Juki 1508 can do what want before making what I consider a long term investment. A decent cylinder arm with reverse is unfortunately out of my budget at this time. I’ve made some pretty good things on my 31-17, and a walking foot flat bed will undoubtedly expand what I can create. I like these kinds of problems in my life. Thanks again for your thoughts, I really appreciate it!
  4. Opinions please… after struggling with making wallets, small backpacks, totes and crossbody type bags with everything from veg tan to softer oil/chrome tan on my 31-17, I think I need to up my game with a compound feed machine. Something that can handle some changes in thickness along a seam. I’m almost set on a new Consew 206RB-5, but locally for a few hundred less I can buy a used Juki LU 1508N. Which one would you choose? Sewing 207 polyester would be a nice option, could the Juki LU1508N (wish it was an ‘NH’) do that? Would a used/very good condition Juki be a superior machine to the new Consew, quality-wise? Around 1500 bucks is my budget, or as much as my partner in crime (aka wife) will let me spend on my new hobby… Thank you in advance for your limitless insight! Joe
  5. Just an update so you all know I’m listening and learning! I’ve ordered a new hook as per Constabulary’s suggestion and link, Dowling’s was the better deal. I also ordered a set of smooth feet. Hopefully I can post a successfully made project made on my 151W2 once I get her running true.
  6. Wow, after looking at both Constabulary’s and Dream4est’s hooks, I’m wishing I had a bigger one! No joke implied, nope not from me… before I mess with the timing belt, or any other adjustments, I think if I want to use my 151W2 a new hook is in my I’m going to measure my hook as I’m curious how it compares to Constabulary’s 143W at 11mm. Seems like even one mm longer would help. Happy you guys have similar machines and keep them employed! thanks!
  7. I’m a newbie. With that said, I recently set up my 1910 Singer 31-17 (same as your 31-15 for the most part) to sew leather. I installed a servo from Toledo Sewing, a must for me and controlling the speed. I have no problems with bonded polyester, 138 on top and 92 bottom, the max I can get nice consistent stitches from, also from Toledo. I also have no issues sewing two pieces of oil tan or chrome tan up to 6 ounce with the above mentioned thread sizes (size 22 leather DBx1 needle). I can sew veg tan as well up to 2 pieces of 4 ounce. For me I just find the correct tension on scraps of the material I’m using, and off we go. These machines have limits though, it likes flat work… meaning going over sewn seams can cause missed stitches. I use a roller foot. In my opinion, firmer leather doesn’t get along with my machine, but it likes medium temper leather quite a lot. When I make something like a backpack, I do all the relatively ‘flat’ sections with my Singer, and hand stitch any small area that the machine has trouble with. Just my 2 cents.
  8. Thank you both for trying to help me out! To answer some of your questions/comments: I’ll include a pic of my hook at the needle, this is the best timing I can get it with the needle tip just grazing the race on the needle’s way up. If I lower the NB any more the needle will scrape/deflect. the main issue with this machine is there are missed stitches, and the hook contacts the thread, damaging it, then all hell happens with binding and thread strands breaking! I’m intrigued by the timing belt being off, to try this should I advance or retard one tooth? Seems the lower shaft is primarily for rotating the hook, upper for needle/feet movement, correct? I have the hook almost touching the needle, but not in the scarf where I’d like it, see pic… I’m using 135x1 needles, there’s a 22 in it now. But I’ve tried smaller ones as well. With different types/sizes of thread. Pretty much the same issues. The pics of new hooks show a ‘sharp’ point, mine looks to be worn, I’ve sanded with 1200 grit to remove any burrs and notice it looks more like a blunt chisel. But it definitely isn’t pointy, I’m wondering if a new one would be longer and hence hit in the scarf area better? I will have to decide if a new hook is justified, if that’s the best thing to try at this point, or at least that’s what I think. Real nice to know they are at least available from the places you’ve shown me, I really appreciate it!! Maybe I should stick with my 31-17, and deal with its limitations. It is a champ on mostly flat work with 138/92. I’ll hand stitch everything else until I can afford a ‘real’ leather machine. But it WOULD be cool to get the 151W2 in working shape for sure. thanks again and again! You are the best!
  9. Constabulary, thanks a ton for your reply! Yes my hook does have the mount that goes over the shaft with set screws. The hooks otherwise are very similar. I was quoted $290: for a new one, which isn’t really worth it to me. But perhaps with what you’ve shared with me, I am a bit closer to solving my problem. I am attaching some pics, in one you might be able to see how worn the hook point is, and hence why I can’t get the 151 timed properly without needle scrape, if that makes sense. thanks again!
  10. I’m having trouble finding parts for my 151W2, I’m sure that’s not a big surprise to some here… I’m hoping that there is some wisdom you all can share with me? I’m in need of a hook and replacement feet. These seem hard to find when I specifically search the web with “151W”, are there other, more popular, models that share parts with my machine? Model’s that would be a whole lot easier to locate parts for that would also fit my 151W2? I’ve seen some ‘zig-zag’ hooks/gibs that LOOK very much like mine does but the reference numbers are different. thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge!
  11. Constabulary, thank you for your reply, attachment and advise! I also thought of that, I actually had to move the NB up a smidge, and move the race out some to accommodate a size 22 round point whilst adjusting the timing. The needle tip and shaft were both scratching the hook body! I looked to see if I had 2mm left on the NB between the clamp and body at the upmost position and it appears that the clamp screw will hit if the bar is lifted up 2mm. I may try both methods to get a leather point on this cool machine. With the round point it sews two layers of 5 ounce medium temper leather pretty well. Nice enough stitch, a leather point would work better obviously, especially with 138 thread. My 31-17 definitely likes a leather point needle better than round for sewing animal. I wasn’t even looking for the 151W2, it came with a vintage table I found at a yard sale for the 31-17. I also scored two 31-15s, all the table accessories and some spare parts all for 200 bucks. Refurbished the table, added a servo, I really like the 31-17. I’ll make it work for the 151 too…my hands get sore from too much saddle stitching. Here’s the fruits of my restoration labor so far. I love “Old Cast Iron” and am doing my part in keeping it alive! Thanks so much, Cheers! la
  12. Hi everyone! New here and looking for some opinions. I’ll make this quick… if I grind 2mm off the butt of a 134LR needle (33.9mm to eye) could I feasibly make myself a 135x1, Dpx1 (31.9mm to eye) both have a 2mm shank. I want to put it in a 151W2 FWIW. looks like aside from the clamp end the rest of these 2 needles are pretty close? thanks !
  • Create New...