sojourner999

It does appear 26 is not a complete clone and a hybrid of some sort. Thx @kgg hybrid of what, who knows. I guess I’ll have to buy one and find out.

Thx for reply.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Thank you.

@bruce johnson @Wizcrafts is there someplace I can go to or some Google search term to find leather workers shows?

Thanks @Wizcrafts I see making forward longer makes rev shorter. I guess it similar to matching inside and outside presser foot lift. Increase one and the other decreases. Thanks for the recommendation on having them adjust for the thickness I would use most often. Makes sense to me. Thanks.

Thanks Bruce. To me, I see that there is support. And your post confirms that, and more. And great to hear that your wife’s machine the fwd and rev holes match. The real disconnect, and uncertainty, I am seeing is the Facebook presence where an authority mentions that the 26 fwd and rev holes do not necessarily match. And some people are turning their material around 180 degrees to have the holes match. And others are manually moving their material to match holes. To me, it is unacceptable for a current production industrial class sewing machine costing over $2K to not have a mechanical adjustment for fwd/rev stitch lengths. I understand that matching may be off if reverse is not started at consistent needle position. And I believe it is up to the operator to be consistent to get consistent stitch lengths. From my call with Dave (I think it was Dave), there is a way to adjust, but I should call him for the first time if/when I need to do that. That’s fine by me. In addition, I really would like to have a manual for reference and to know I can repeat the adjustment. Having that information before plunking down the $$ would alleviate any reluctance on my part. Not trying to be difficult, but I had a bad experience with a consew 206rb-4, which lacked the parts to match stitch lengths. And a juki 563 where I had to knock out a pin that disallowed adjustment. With the juki I can now match stitch lengths, so that is good. Anyway, everyone reading this post probably realizes I ovethink things sometimes. again, thanks for your reply and info.

Thanks for the recommendation for the CB-341. I will have to look further if the cobra does not pan out for me. What is compelling for me about the Cobra is that the hook is vertical axis and uses U bobbins (similar to my Juki 563) and that it has lifetime support (sans wear and tear parts). And I can get it with both a speed reducer AND a needle positioner. The cowboy is still in the running for me. I just want to ensure I can adjust for fwd/rev. Thanks for your reply and input.

I did call and asked that specifically, with me saying it looked like a juki ls-341 n clone and could the juki engineers manual procedure be used to match fwd/rev stitches. Was told the 26 is a hybrid of juki and Pfaff. Was also told if I had issue, to call and the guy would walk me through matching stitches. On the other hand, my opinion, it appears the FB group, there is mention of not necessarily matching and people seem to be OK with that. It just doesn’t make sense to me to not have an engineers manual available to people who can maintain their own machines. In their defense, I will say there are nice videos available on basic timing, like needle bar height and hook timing. And that there are a few people who are helpful. And that they go above and beyond with after sale support. Maybe the reluctance is because they offer great support and sharing an engineers manual may be opening a can of worms for them. i am really hoping that someone here has the machine and can verify the ability to match stitches and how. Much thanks for your reply.

Hi everyone, I am looking at purchasing a cobra class 26 cylinder arm. There are no engineers manuals I can find for the 26. I did find the engineers manual for the Juki ls-341 N here on the forum. And page 14 has the adjustment to match stitch lengths. this topic, 3rd post down, @kgg shared the manuals before I drop my hard earned $$$, I want to ensure that there is an adjustment I can make to have the forward stitch lengths matching the reverse stitch lengths on the 26. I joined the fb group and did not see anything there saying an adjustment is possible, except one commentator mentioning the reverse stitches will not necessarily land in the same holes as fwd. Anyone with a relatively recent cobra class 26 can confirm or deny that there is an adjustment that one can make to match the forward stitches with the reverse stitches? And if so, what would that adjustment be? (My fingers are crossed that it would be the same adjustment as in the Juki la-341n engineers manual p. 14 referenced above). Thanks!

I just wanted to share what worked for me. I would never have thought there was a solution unless I had the support of members here and for members youtube videos. Thanks all and special thanks to @Uwe! ----- I still have the Consew 206RB-4 and am getting closer to selling it and getting a Seiko STH-8BLD-3 to replace it. I see that has instructions for matching stitch length. I feel my never ending Odyssey of matching forward and reverse stitch lengths is coming to a close. Now I have to find some light leather to start on my idea (pick pouch for a banjo) and/or tan a hide of the next deer I take (season doesn't start until the fall). Thanks all!

Then a couple more punches and it was out. Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy. I guess I have one of the machines where it is easy to remove. I needed a 3/32" roll pin punch (1/16" too small and 1/8" too big). Your mileage may vary. I have no idea how every pinned machine gets pinned. I bought it from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QV2JTXK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 tagging @Jhunter13

Then I used a 3/32" roll pin punch to start punching it out.

I was able to remove the pin that keeps me from adjusting the fwd/reverse stitch length balance on my Juki LU-563. First i pushed a thread through the pin to ensure the pin went all the way through. Firt

The instructions @1hp provided for consew 206rb-5 are exactly the same as the Seiko sth-8bld-3. They appear to be same exact machines with the former made in China and the latter made in Japan. Looking at the Juki adjustment, i am not sure the Juki “pin” would be as accurate as a screw. And the Seiko/consew looks like the regulator rod would be similar in accuracy. That is just from looking at the images. I am thinking six of one and half-dozen of the other. the Adler 867 looks real nice, but way above my budget at this time (hobbyist looking to eventually move to part time creator). I am going to do some more research and see what I can find. Also, anyone else here with experience may reply in a couple days. Weekend and all. Thanks!