Jbodnar

I had always read that painting had to be done before any finishing or products being applied to the leather. That it had to be deglazed and clean so that’s what I’ve done. Clearly not working out so well With this project, yeah I decided to just try to re-paint it after the antique to try to save it. I deglazed the area with a q-tip as best I could and re-painted it. Dried overnight, sprayed with resolene this morning and tried not to disturb it. Hoping it works out. It’s a Xmas gift for a friend so I’m chalking it up to R&D

It’s on the relief part of the tooling so no burnishing. I’ll try some more tests. Your wife has wise words but this is one of the few instances where I feel like I am following directions I tried to save it and just re-painted the brand after the antique process(I deglazed it with a q-tip as best I could..). I let dry overnight and sprayed resolene to finish. Hoping that will do it. I hate the shine with resolene but I figured something I could spray would be safer and I’m on a time crunch seeing as Xmas is tomorrow. Luckily it’s for a friend so I’ll chalk it up to R&D and see how it holds up. Hoping to get this painting problem figured out though. I love putting people’s brands on things and it always looks better painted black. I think the only time it’s worked out is on a pair of spur straps for myself that I just whipped up and didn’t care much about. The paint stuck like glue and had no problem at all. Same process, same products I did this time.

I don’t do a ton of painting so I’m having a hard time figuring out what’s going wrong here. My process is to tool - dry over night deglaze (with 50/50 alcohol + acetone) - dry for a few hours paint with angelus acrylic - dry 24hrs oil- dry a couple hours tan-kote - dry a couple hours (if I buff it at this point to check nothing rubs off) antique, and tan-kote again. Letting dry in between. Sometimes it goes perfectly. Equally as many times once I get to the antique it wipes the paint clear off, and I mean immediately dissolves it. Ive tried to recreate the issue on a scrap piece and the paint sticks just fine no issues so I cannot for the life of me figure out why I only have an issue when it’s something I’ve spent hours tooling. Is there something I’m missing here?

Thanks! Haha I got so fed up with the whole thing trying to stitch those after all the dye mishaps I was like “f it they’re going on I don’t even care anymore!” Ive thrown the dye away and ordered acrylic paint to try(can’t ship pro-dye to CA). Had the same issue with another project with even a different hide. Did multiple tests (1-prepped with alcohol, 2- oiled first, 3- no prep at all) on a patch with NO issue, applied tankote and couldn’t get that dye to budge to save my life. Thought perfect! Great! Then when I painted the real piece same issue again, smeared all over the place and ruined it. Can’t figure out what’s going on and feel like I’m losing my mind!

Thanks for the help! Ended up doing resolene 50/50(four-ish thin coats, damp sponge) to seal and the dye still bled quite a bit but all and all turned out OK-ish. Definite learning experience all around and will give the pro-dye a shot for any future dying projects. Ended up having to use a stitching awl to sew it, I started saddle stitching but it was just so awkward to try and get into I spent an absurd amount of time getting nowhere. The awl left FAT stitch holes which was a bummer - going to do more searching for one with a thinner needle. all and all for my third tooling project; at least they’re shoes and no one gets that close to my feet!

Thank you! I knew it was the dang recycling I forgot. Gets me every time. I didn’t know there were so many types of dye till I started researching the issue. I’ll definitely look into the pro-dye if I attempt this again.

Thank you! I’m in CA so shouldn’t be too hard to find. You’ve found it seals dye well?

Hi! I know this has been discussed a bunch so I apologize for any redundancy but I still have a question. I’m making tooled panels to go on a pair of converse, using premium veg-tan from Hide House. -Tooled, cleaned with rubbing alcohol (didn’t have deglazer and figured it was close), -Dyed the background with fiebings black water based dye. I did three coats and dried overnight. -Lightly oiled(olive oil), dried for atleast half an hour. -Applied Tankote and the dye is rubbing off-and transferring onto the undyed areas, not all of it but definitely getting splotchy if I rub it too much. I tried to delicately apply the tankote in hopes of sealing it and not disturbing it. Now that it’s dried overnight it feels sealed and doesn’t SEEM to be rubbing off, but worried it will if they get wet at all. Questions being, I was reading resolene may be more appropriate for this application? More waterproof as well(seeing as they’re going on shoes)? Also do I need to buff the leather and get off any dye that wants to run(and at that point can I even touch it up since it’s already got tankote on it) or should I just seal it with a 50/50 resolene(or tan kote if that’s more appropriate) and it will stay put? Planning to antique as well but waiting to sort out the dye issue before I go any further. Appreciate any advice, thanks so much for your time! photo attached, go easy on me it’s only like my third time tooling something