Falkalem

Thanks! I wasn’t even thinking about being able to melt nylon or poly, hah! Was focused on the wax element. Duh. Thanks!

Hi all! I’ve been hand stitching for a while and just bought a Sailrite LSZ-1 with the Worker B and Monster wheel. I haven’t put on the monster wheel yet, but that’s not quite my question. When sewing leather on a sewing machine, do I backstitch to lock the thread at the beginning and end of the line like I would doing any other kind of sewing with regular fabrics? The thread I’m using is obviously not waxed like hand stitching thread, so I can’t melt it in place. Any other tips for sewing with a (Sailrite) machine are appreciated!

Good point! I have definitely made that mistake before, but fortunately not still the issue. follow up to that - if I’m making something that I’d like to be slim or slimmer, like a minimalist wallet, I’ve seen people skive the edges of the pockets down, I would think that’d end up making a similar issue to the one you just described. Any thoughts on that?

I’ve got Fiebings leathercrafting cement. Should I try something different? I definitely don’t think it is dry enough to start stitching in 10 mins.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures right now. I’ve already given away the one I was most recently working on (was ok enough that I knew the receiver would still like it!). I usually lay several books over the top of the pieces for several hours to dry, or if the surface isn’t flat enough to do that, I’ve got some pretty heavy duty clips that I line the edge with. I will certainly try tapping/rolling the edge next time.

I’ve been struggling on a few projects to prevent or correct gaps between layers of leather. I glue, stitch, sand, and burnish the edges, then typically I’ll use EdgeKote to paint the edges, but I’m having trouble making the edges look really smooth. If there is any kind of gap between layers, it is super obvious. I’m able to fill the gaps a bit with built up EdgeKote, but it’s still visible. Any tips/tricks? Thanks!

Hey all! I’m trying to rearrange my work space as it is kind of a disaster at the moment…still working from home (on my sewing and leatherwork desk) since Covid hit, we’re in the middle of a kitchen renovation, etc etc. One thing I’d like to do it figure out a way to store my leather hides (all veg tan). I was considering hanging pvc pipe horizontally on the wall. Anyone done that? Or have other (pvc pipe or otherwise) ideas? I like the idea of wall mounted to get it out of the way.

Fredt - thanks for the reply. What’s the difference between plain beeswax and SnoSeal? I though SnoSeal just had another ingredient in it with a lower melting point to help get the beeswax absorbed into the leather? another follow up - I’ve had great luck in general using SnoSeal, but for whatever the reason, on this project, it keep getting random bleed through of the SnoSeal onto the grain side. I’ve already dyed and coated the exterior with Resolene. But then the SnoSeal left a giant dark splotch in the center of my piece. I don’t think I applied it any heavier there than elsewhere. Anything to be said about SnoSeal the flesh side before coating the grain side with resolene? Any chance already having resolene on one side didn’t allow the SnoSeal to breathe/therefore dry? Grasping at straws over here. Thanks!

Hi all! I’m fairly new to leathercrafting, been poking around the shadows of the forums for a while but this is my first post. I’m looking for recommendations on how to finish the flesh side/interior side of a portfolio/binder cover. I don’t have any lining material, and it doesn’t need to be water resistant. I am not planning to stain the interior (I’ve tried on a few pieces and I keep getting bleed through on the 5oz leather I’m using). I have some cuts that have a fairly smooth flesh side. Besides SnoSeal since I don’t need to waterproof, and lining it since I don’t have anything to line with…any recommendations? Thanks for the help! Maybe one day I’ll have good recommendations for someone like the today me.