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Kfd518

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Everything posted by Kfd518

  1. The bag in the middle snaps into the big bag and can be used on its own or not used at all. I made a similar clutch for my youngest daughter, when I showed my wife what I was making for my daughter she enthusiastically replied she liked it too. The green in all of the bags and my daughters clutch is Horween bison. All the brown on the bag is just Sepichi veg tan. The interior of my wife’s clutch is walnut buttero. I didn’t care for some of the fuzziness on the back of the bison but apparently it is inherent to that particular leather… This set is a Mother’s Day gift for her this coming weekend. She knows about the bag but not the clutch. My toiletry bag is made of the same bison with tan horween CXL horsebutt trim. I have been learning a lot lately working on many different projects.
  2. The inlaid straps were quite interesting to make since I’ve never tried it before. I’ve never lined a project. I have done rolled handles but always out of heavier material that would hold its own shape. I adapted a pattern that was meant for hand sewing to mostly machine sewing. (I detest pre punched holes).
  3. Well it now has a home made speed reducer and I drilled and tapped the back for a KH sewing edge guide. These two modifications should make it quite a bit more controllable.
  4. @shelr1, that is a national hardware #500-30000 garage door step plate. They unfortunately are out of production now. I’m working on a similar setup but went with a much larger large pulley @10” HA HA by my math I should be able to run 1 stitch every 2 seconds if I so choose.
  5. thanks on both accounts. Holsters will still be hand stitched with 207 and 346. I’ll keep looking for a class 4 but I feel with the amount of holsters I do that it is not a worthwhile investment at this time. Haven’t been doing many holsters as of late. However, I’ve had interest in another bag I’ve been making of this same general style just done with molle webbing on the top where the frame bars go in. thanks on both accounts. Holsters will still be hand stitched with 207 and 346. I’ll keep looking for a class 4 but I feel with the amount of holsters I do that it is not a worthwhile investment at this time. Haven’t been doing many holsters as of late. However, I’ve had interest in another bag I’ve been making of this same general style just done with molle webbing on the top where the frame bars go in.
  6. Well I finally bit the bullet and got a machine besides my old 29-4 patcher. I bought a used LU563 in really good shape with table and fs550 servo for $850. It got away from me on my first two projects with it and it’s found itself with a 45 mm pulley hanging off the servo output shaft! Much more controllable now! I’m glad my mother taught me about matching plaids, prints and stripes when I was growing up. When the inside pocket is opened it is a seamless translation in the stripes which I feel makes for a better looking end product.
  7. Well I ended up making a spring out 1/16”of 308L TIG rod. I did not end up needing to shim the revolving bush after adding this. Brazing the needle bar driving plunger and needle bar back to proper width. In a 14 oz horse hide carry belt blank it was making 6 stitches to the inch. Not a single skipped stitch with 138 thread. This will not be the normal thickness I stitch with it or through but both myself and my dad were due for new belts. The one shown is for my dad.
  8. @shoepatcher One thing that just occurred to me. I am missing the #8574 revolving bush friction spring. Is said spring intended to hold the bush up as well as provide slight resistance to rotation?
  9. Doesn’t look like the screws have ever been out of the retainer going into the bush. I didn’t realize I had transposed my part numbers previously. I’m wondering if some shim stock in say .008 cut to a washer shape and set on top of the step on the revolving bush might fix the issue if the washer doesn’t. The needle bar had about .010” of wear on where it slides in and out of the head I’m hoping brazing it back and bringing back to proper dimension will make it last until I can find a proper needle bar. All the replacements show to be too short by the dimensions I measure off mine
  10. The rotating head bush in my machine head (part number 8577 and revolving bush retainer 8573) have .011” up and down movement in them equating to .030” free play in the presser foot. The screws attaching the two together are tight which of these two parts is more likely to have worn causing this? I have built the bell crank end back up to .197” with braze rod and re-profiled the tip of it. There is not
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