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Arby

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About Arby

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    Houston

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    Carving
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  1. This is my approach to transfer a pattern to leather for carving. It does not seem very original but I have not seen it described elsewhere. I have used paper, or transfer film, but it is easy to introduce mistakes when tracing onto transfer film. This approach allows me to alter the pattern dimensions (square to rectangle, etc.), or size (1.5” belt pattern to 1.25”). I suspect there are apps that work better, but the two I use are pretty simple and free. If you have a better approach, please share. I use an Ipad for my work. The pattern is saved as a photograph (jpeg)(sometimes by simply taking a screenshot). I print on transparency film (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085BFLX5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using a HP laser printer set to ‘transparency’ (ink jets are also supposed to work. Some reviewers claim that the transparency will not work in their particular printer so your results may vary). The film has one rounded corner to indicate the print side; to print on my HP, the transparency is fed print side facing up, so the round corner goes to the upper left. If the transparency gets wet, the coating will turn sort of gummy, so make sure all water is wiped up and your hands are dry before starting (the cased (damp) leather will not affect the coating, as the coating should be on the side away from the leather). The print may rub off as you use a stylus to trace the lines, so you may need to print one for each use. To print, I use the Image Size free app. You can set the desired print size (for example, for a 5x7 picture frame, I might set to 4.25x6.25 or 4.5x6.5 depending on the pattern), print and check it. Often I have to print a few pages to get the sizing right. Once I like it, I print on a transparency. Consider using a marker to note the Image Size setting on the transparency for future reference. For some reason, Image Size will not allow me to unlock the aspect ratio and alter the pattern in only one dimension. If I need to change the pattern shape - say go from a long rectangle to a more square rectangle, I recently found https://photokit.com/tools/warp/pinch/. Upload your pattern picture, go to ‘resize’, unclick ‘maintain aspect ratio’ and put in a ratio that works (the size is shown in pixels, 5x7 is roughly 1070x1500 for example, while 8x10 would be 1200x1500, you may need to play around to get the dimensions you want)(when the picture is loaded, the pixel size appears in the boxes, so I simply calculate the ratio I want and alter one dimension), then save. The pattern will be slightly distorted, depending on how far you are altering the original, but often 'good enough'. To print, open in Image Size. Since the pattern is saved as a photograph, it is easy to go in and edit it. I may take a belt pattern and select ‘crop - invert’ (the sort of double triangle icon), then use the original pattern followed by the inverted to have a longer, non-obviously repeating pattern (remember, the transparency film must be used coated side up so you can’t simply flip over). Or I may take a pattern designed for a ‘roper’ wallet, crop down to wallet size, then edit to clean up the cut pattern edges - by erasing lines at the cropped edge, or draw a bit to close off a part of the pattern (example, to close off a vine into the “knife” (shark fin?) shape). If you find a picture on-line and want the pattern, print the picture, use transparency film to trace the outline, scan in and save as a picture/jpeg. Old Tandy book paper pattern, scan it in. When scanning a pattern, I use a ruler to draw a ~4 inch line, so when printed I can measure to confirm that the scan/print did not alter the size - I find scanning sometimes reduces the original slightly. Then use Image Size and PhotoKit to get the print size you want. Final point - if I have a pattern with a straight border, I simply push the stylus into the pattern corner to make a light dimple (or measure directly on the leather to set the corners). Once the pattern is traced, I place a clear ruler on the leather and use my stylus to draw a light line from dimple to dimple, resulting in a very straight line for carving. I hope you find this useful (and original!).
  2. Sorry for being late to the party. I am a new member here, searching on techniques and saw this string. Recently I have been using transparency sheets to laser print (or ink jet) the pattern then apply via stylus. It works similar to transfer film, with a caveat - the side with a slight roughness/opaque must be kept dry and not contact wet leather or it may leave a sort of glue like mess. Print on the rough side, transfer with the smooth side to the leather. When tracing onto the leather, a small amount of the printer ink may scrap off - so the templates are often a one-use. I'm still looking for transparency sheets that are water proof. This is the one that I have tried: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KS3VTQQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. Select transparency setting for paper; if your printer does not have it, select for heavy paper. By printing, it's faster and I avoid copying mistakes that may occur when using transfer film. The fine detailed lines of patterns, such as by Don Gonzales, come through nicely using this approach.
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