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ThomG

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  1. Those were my first test cuts that didnt go through so i used a box cutter so i could test dyes etc.
  2. Yes that's using the hand cleaner with pumice, and i actually scrubbed this with a fingernail brush to rrally see if it would mess it up, its the sample piece. I plan to dye and spray coat resoline when I'm done.
  3. Here is a before and after cleaning. it's still wet in the bottom picture that's why the color is so different.
  4. here are the same samples dyed with alcohol based buckeye color dye applied with a dobber.
  5. I probably should have mentioned the bottom circle is the one I cleaned. I'll try staining both and the scrap today with a dobber.
  6. I haven't tried staining yet, what application method would show the difference best, i would think a rag or brush would show application marks, an airbrush doesn't produce texture, that or maybe dunking them?
  7. Here is a sample, i cut both circles out of the material shown and cleaned one with the cleaner I'm talking about and not the other.
  8. fredk - thank you for the input, considering it doesn't hurt skin, that was my guess after not seeing any issues, but wanted to check considering I don't see anyone using it. chuck123wapati That's funny you should mention it, I use a pumice stone on car clear coats to get rid of drips and runs. It' works very well because it doesn't conform to shape of the drip, which sand paper does. Soak it for about 10 minutes then use a lot of water, it does require quite a bit of elbow grease, but that's why it can be used to polish, as noted in your post. Many custom painters prefer to use what's basically a miniature wood plan instead because it's quicker and less work. I also use them on my hands and feet to remove dead skin, so while it does come from a volcano, it's not exactly like pouring lava on something. the gloss being removed is very different than roughing up the surface to create a physical tooth to get the glue to penetrate. I have no doubt if i just scrub with a rock on leather it would do damage, but that's not remotely what I've asked about.
  9. The pumice is mixed into the cleaner already, it's not an additional step or process. The grit helps remove the char and smoke. I didn't say it damages it, I said it remove a little of the gloss and if anyone knows if it causing damage, has experience with it or a way to test if it's causing an issue is the point of the post. I'm not looking to guess, speculate, or "just do it the same old way it's always been done."
  10. I'm just starting to learn about leather working, however I've been using a laser cutter for about 13 years now, so using it for leather is a no brainer. I see people talking about burned edges, char, smoke on the surface of the leather, etc. I have always cleaned whatever I laser cut, acrylic, wood, etc. with that mechanics orange hand cleaner with pumice. I have tried it on several leather pieces that I cut, and it cleaned the edges and the surface and doesn't appear* to hurt the leather, other than removing a little bit of the gloss on the surface. *I have no clue about leather working (like I said I'm starting to learn), so I'm looking for input from people who know more and have either already tried this cleaner and know it's an issue or haven't tried it and can identify if it's damaging or safe. I posted about this in another chat but figured a post specifically about it would get it more visibility.
  11. I've been using lasers since about 2009, I'm totally new to leather working. A trick to clean up the smoke or char on anything laser cut is, clean it with orange pumice hand cleaner. I tried it with leather and it doesn't seem to damage the leather and it does wash the char off the edges and smoke off the front, the only difference I see is it takes a little bit of the gloss off the front of the leather, but I'd be interested to see if anyone else has tried it or know if it's bad for leather or reasons to not use it.
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