Silkcut

This is an example/size 18 needle for your machine. I do not remotely pretend to be an expert on needles, but these are in use on my 230. I'm sure there are folks here that are much more experienced than I, that can translate all of the packaging info for you ,to lead you to what you need. This is not a package of obscure, 30 year old needles, they are currently available. As you can see, I might have broken a few repairing horse blankets.

Right now the motor is in the "off" position and the speed looks to e dialed to minimum. When you depress the red toggle switch does it illuminate ? If you remove the belt from the machine, place the dial 1/2 way, and push the arm down, does it run? There looks to be a fuse on the backside between the motor cord and the convenience receptacle. Logically, the red power toggle shouldn't illuminate, if the fuse is blown, but there's no telling how it's really wired. One more source could be the brushes under those black plastic caps. They should be making contact with the armature via spring pressure,. If they're worn, the motor won't run. Generally it's intermittent though. If it's not something simple, then you'll need a meter to see where you have power, or don't have power.. The speed controller on my Adler cannot be adjusted to minimum. There isn't enough torque available to turn the machine, so it just sits there doing nothing. Th speed dial on mine does not set an RPM, it just sets a range of RPM. My foot on the pedal still controls the speed of the motor and the needle. To control the speed by setting a specific rpm, you'll need a speed set controller, and I don't see one in your photos. It should still work as it is though. Mine does. One more silly possibility, and I did it to my self, is that the setscrews that tighten the pulley to the shaft, weren't tightened down, so the motor shaft was spinning inside the pulley. I felt pretty stupid when I figured that out.

The 230 is a nice machine, and given what you state you want to do with it, should be capable of handling it. 2-4mm of leather isn't going to give it trouble. I have a Consew 230, with reverse. I don't know if mine is exactly the same as yours though. No where on mine is an "R1" designation?? These are high speed garment machines and can really spit some material out the backside. They're also good with lighter canvas and polypropolene covers, like on temporary buildings. You might get the idea to try and use a walking foot attachment with your 230. I have done it, but it's not that great. It "worked" on lighter material. I don't know that it will work leather. Mine is running a size 19 needle with V92 thread, and that's a little heavy. Now that I have an Adler 167 GK373, I'll set up my Consew for lighter thread, and needle. I like the advice to use V69 thread, with a size 16, or 17. Mine can be problematic at times with heavier thread. You'll also get more thread on the bobbin. You really want that servo motor. I guarantee that it will not be wasted money. It can be adapted to just about any machine of this type and class, so if you do get a true walking foot machine down the line, you just swap it over. The clutch you currently have on your machine is difficult to control and feather for low speed operation, and if your foot moves just a few millimeters, that machine will be off to the races. I believe that the specs for the machines are upward of 3500 stiches per minute. Mine does not currently have a servo motor, but it will be getting one soon. There could be an issue with servo motors installed on this machine. The oil pump needs rpm's to get the oil pumping to the top of the machines. The bottom of the machine has a system of wicks that keep parts lubricated, but the top needs that pumped oil. I think with mine I'll just have to periodically run it at higher RPM's to get the oil pumping to the top.