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Found 3 results

  1. I have a Mast Foot Press #11040, by MAST Harness Hardware. They are no longer in business. There is a setup guide, and a list of dies. Unfortunately, there is only one punch and no other parts. Is it possible to get dies to fit? There is an adapter listed that converts a 5/16" hole to a 3/8" hole, so I am assuming that we would need something to fit the 5/16 hole. Obviously, I am not familiar with these pieces of equipment. Does anyone have suggestions for finding parts?
  2. I am new to leatherwork, though not to sewing and construction with fabrics. I understand the need for sharp knives. I also understand that without straight cuts, it is pretty much senseless to try to put something together. It seems I am, so far, totally incapable of cutting a straight line! Multiple knives, roller cutter, fresh blades, scalpels, all tried. The biggest challenges are leathers about 2-3 mm of different types. Those of looser temper are most challenging. A couple of questions about approach. I prefer to stand, and have a sit-stand work area so can adjust the height. Is it better to be closer to the work? Does distance of upper body (being closer) help with application of pressure on the knife? What is the best way to get a smooth continuous...and straight...cut? One major issue is keeping the leather still and flat, and holding the pattern on the leather...one or the other always seems to move, even on short runs of 8-10 inches. Longer runs wiggle more. I have tried weights with limited effectiveness. Do have self-healing mats and all sorts of rulers and straight edges and squares. So that is the first area needing some input. I see the pros and semi pros cutting giant pieces of leather perfectly straight by eye on You Tube. Obviously some of the control will come with experience. What are some other tricks? The other major question is how to hide or fix mistakes...that one (or 10) crooked or out of line stitch, a hole in the wrong spot, those wiggly lines that need straightening. Oh yeah, and how to keep hole punches from bouncing and making 2 impressions. If any of you have suggestions, tricks, tips, videos, It would be grand if you could share a few on these areas. Thanks!
  3. Recently I have been restoring some vintage machinery, including fitting new drive belts The belts are about 4mm thick leather, joined by steel clips . Each clip requires a hole or slot in each end of the belt; with two clips per belt that's 4 holes altogether The holes need to be 1/4" X 1/2" or about 6mm X 12mm Apart from the fact that I couldn't find a slot punch or crew punch of the correct size, they are quite expensive. So instead I went to the secondhand tool stall in my local market and bought a 1/4" wood chisel for £2. It was a bit dirty with surface rust, but once I'd cleaned it, underneath there was an excellent old Sheffield steel chisel, which sharpened to a razor edge I marked out the size with a scratch awl, then cut the slot, with a piece of scrap wood for a backing The stall holder was charging the same price for all the chisels; £2, about $3, regardless of the width. It occurred to me that for the same price and a bit of work you could get a 1" / 25mm chisel, or possibly a bit wider and have a very good and cheap skiving knife
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