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This is my first post, so hopefully I won't make an utter fool of myself! I've just purchased my first leather sewing machine (Cowboy 3200) after doing english bridlework and saddlery repairs for the past 2 years by hand and learning that I have fairly severe arthritis in my hands at the ripe old age of 32. Hah! I am aware that byusing the machine I won't have the lovely angled stitch, or the knot and stability of the saddle stitch, but I'd love to continue to use a thread with a traditional look to it. I have a background in textiles and fiber, so I'm really drawn to the outward look of natural-fiber threads (linen, cotton, hemp, etc) regardless of if they're core-spun around something more stable. Has anyone used Sajou polycotton "Spécial Maroquinerie" for their machine stitching? I fully expect it to be more finicky and less forgiving than a bonded nylon or polyester, but I'm a glutton for punishment. Are there other brands of natural-fiber core-spun threads on the market? If so, does anyone know how it stitches up, size-wise? The 28/3 is 0.45mm, while the 28/3 is 0.38mm, and I'm hoping to find something that stitches up similar to a #183 thread. Also, I'd assume the waxed threads such as this might gum up the machine over time despite being designed for machine use. Is there a way I can keep this from happening? I don't mind a little extra work cleaning it out now and then in exchange for the natural fiber thread. Orrrr... is this just a beginner's pipe dream, and should I just stick to bonded nylon or polyester? (Here is the link to the sajou website and the page with machine threads: http://www.sajou.fr/en/314--special-maroquinerie-fil-au-chinois)

I have just gotten a hold of an old but in working condition Singer 17 - 16 sewing machine (with reverse function). I am struggling to find much more info on the machine than what is stated in the manual which was written quite some time ago. Could someone who owns this machine or has worked on one tell me anything about what kind of needle to use (the manual states 16x2 if anyone can de-code that for me!) and what kind of thread to use? Thank you so much!