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I own Juki 1508s . GOLDSTAR GSM550 will not let me go lower than 1600 RPM. I have speed reducer installed. This model uses a needle positioner that I like. Question- need a new motor that allows RPM 500- 3500 but also has needle positioner that fits Juki AMCO shaft. ( see picture of needle positioner) Or how do I tell the servo to go slower from computer module...Any opinions?

Hi all, I am trying to install a zeromax speed reducer i bought onto a juki ddl8700 with servo motor for some fine tune sewing of curved in tight spaces on small objects of leather and other thich fabric. Could anyone help me in figuring out how it is to be mounted/installed? I can grasp the concept and verify the reducer device appears to be working properly, I am just a bit confused on where to mount, top or bottom, and how/if I need to move my current servo motor for the belts to correspond and unit to sew properly. Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated I am a technician and have no problems using my hands I am just not exactly a pro when it comes to sewing machines as I have only picked it up as a side hobby over the past 1-2 years. Thanks! James

Hello Everyone! My father surprised me with giving me his old Consew 230. He makes boots for a living and used this machine for sewing leather. Primarily for the welts and piping and he figured it would be good for my endeavors to sew lightweight leather purses and organizers as it can sew the thickness I need and up to 138 thread. Oh, how I wanted a 206RB, but the 230 does now hold sentimental value.... So Dad came over and we set it up....with a clutch motor and the thing is in bad shape because it just about goes into warp speed stitching and the foot pedal is a hot mess! I release my foot and it just keeps a going....and eventually slows on it own. Ummmmm, this isn't really good for me! Plus, when we fired the ol' girl up, it sounded like I started up a starship :-). So loud!!!! Ok, I have been sewing for 30 years - fabric, that is...and I am used to my home machine. I have total control of how slow or fast I sew....and the pedal is very responsive! I am gonna be honest, I need a machine that runs SLOW - so I can keep up with it for right now...Maybe one day I can sew fast but certainly not now!!! I see stuff about controller, needle position/sync, servo motors and reducers. Best I can reckon, I would LOVE a servo motor and may well need a reducer to sew at a turtle pace, but what is this controller and needle position/sync? And of all of these things, what products would you recommend and from whom? BTW, I live in Florida. Thank you soo much! MG And come to think of it, such a sad thing that a 78 year old man could handle this Consew 230 going faster than the speed of light, but his kid daughter is having some serious issues with it!!! :-)

Anyone have any experience with the Zero-Max E1 Adjustable Speed Drive or anything like it? It says it uses a series of 4 clutches to reduce the input from anywhere between 0 - 1/4 of its original speed. It's rated for an input of up to 2000 rpm, and it seems to be fairly well made. That's just a general observation though...it seems fairly beefy. I'm not sure what it does to the power/torque of the output though. I don't know if using the clutches as opposed to gears or pulleys means that the speed reduction is achieved by pulling power out of the system as opposed to just simply trading decreased speed for increased torque. I'm not super knowledgeable of how clutches work, but I'm wondering if it basically transfers X % of the power to achieve the decreased speed. If not then it looks really awesome, and like something I'd like to pick up if I can find a good deal on one somewhere. I've found a couple for around $225, the same price I've been finding on the nice reducer pulley setups, but I also found a used one for $150. Who knows how good the clutches are still though. It might be worth the extra $75 to get one that hasn't been used. I'm assuming the clutches on these would eventually wear out just like the clutch on a motor or in a car. I've done just enough transmission work to know I don't like doing it, and I've only worked on the valve bodies...never made it into the clutch packs. Although, that could partly be due to having to do it stuck under a 2-ton vehicle with about 24" of space between the ground and the bottom of the car. Man I wish the concrete in my garage was thick enough to support a 2-post vehicle lift. Enough rambling...any thoughts people?