Randyc Report post Posted February 9, 2008 After self-critiqueing and critique by you guys, I redesigned my between the belt and waist band Makarov holster. I's built rough side out, press molded only, and finished in Fieblings tan-kote. As always your comments and suggestions and laughter are welcome. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warren Report post Posted February 9, 2008 I'm not laughing Randy. It looks like a great job to me. Warren Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutEast Report post Posted February 9, 2008 Randy, Looks good! I am by no means an expert holster maker, but I can offer some humble critiques. Perhaps you might want to bevel your snap loop (and other edges a bit more) and smooth them out a bit. I think nice smooth edges really make a holster look "finished". I use a #4, or #3, beveler then flip it over and smooth the edge with the same tool (little bit of moisture and elbow grease applied as well)! When you think you are finished, let it dry a bit and then hit it again to remove all the roughness. It also seems you are getting a bit of distortion (for lack of a better word) on your stitches around the trigger guard. It looks machine sewn, so I cannot offer any remedies as far as that goes, as I still sew by hand. I am a LEO myself, and cannot afford the upgrade to a machine as of yet! (Although I'm looking hard at an Artisan 3000). Are you sewing flat and then inserting the pistol into cased leather and then subsequently the press? Lastly, you may want to trim a bit off the bottom to eliminate a bit of the pucker you have there, although it doesn't look that bad now that I think about it. Sorry if that was too much brother. Be safe. Mike, NY Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted February 9, 2008 Looking better on each one, an edger will make a world of difference on the look, just don't edge the areas that are to be sewn together on the backside of the leather or you end up with a funky edge that won't come together and will have to be sanded down to start over. (bet you can guess why I know that) A little less length will definitely eliminate the pucker. Sewing is not easy for me, takes alot of practice and patience. Keep them coming...Jordan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutEast Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Looking better on each one, an edger will make a world of difference on the look, just don't edge the areas that are to be sewn together on the backside of the leather or you end up with a funky edge that won't come together and will have to be sanded down to start over. (bet you can guess why I know that) A little less length will definitely eliminate the pucker. Sewing is not easy for me, takes alot of practice and patience. Keep them coming...Jordan I should have been more specific....I bevel the edge with a #3 or #4 beveler, and then flip the tool over and burnish the same side. (After it is cemented together of course)! Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyc Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Hey guys thanks for the critiques. It's probably a little hard to see, but I actually beveled the edges. I eliminated the seam line totally on the holster body and it's pretty slick. I had a tougher time burnishing the single layer belt strap after beveling. Mike I used a 3000 for the stitching. I stitch my holsters prior to caseing and molding. I have no idea why my stitches lengthened around the trigger guard. After I grooved in my stitch lines, stitched, cased, then molded the holster, I discovered the holster was a little long. I considered trimming the bottom of the holster 1/2 inch, but decided against it because it would have eliminated my non-sewn stitch lines at the bottom of the holster and the sewn edge would not look good at the bottom. If it wasn't for my leather business and a private detective business I would not have been able to afford the 3000 either. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Randy, I like it. Is that a German or Russian Makarov? Looks a little different than my German one. 9X19 right? Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutEast Report post Posted February 10, 2008 (edited) Randy, Yeah the single layer loop, or any other single layer for that matter, can be tough to bevel/burnish. I like to moisten the edge with a bit of water, lay it flat on a marble slab or similar hard surface, and angle my inverted beveler so that it burnishes the edge. I usually press down pretty hard during this process. Then I flip the piece over and do the same on the reverse. This sometimes leaves a bit of a "ridge" on the top of the edge that I then round off with an old wooden burnishing wheel. The trick, for me, is to get the correct angle with the handle of the beveler to create as little of a ridge as possible!. Sorry if it sounds confusing, everyone has their own method(s) I suppose. It is difficult to convey what I actually do. Keep up the good work! Mike ETA I apologize if this is a bit of a hijack Randy but can anyone diagnose the problem with the stitches lengthening around the trigger guard? Tax refund may yield an Artisan machine and I'm gathering all the info I can! Thanks! Edited February 10, 2008 by OutEast Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Well I can try to describe what I think happened to me, A combination of the tight turn, foot pressure and the slope caused by the doubled layer of leather seemed to cause a sideways slip of the holster and extended the stitch, also noticed in a couple of instances the advance mechanism seemed to slip or not grab the leather underneath to move it forward and some of the stitches got way to close together. Most of it is operator error on my part and I am sure after much tweaking and practice I will get much better with my machine. Hope this made sense, it hard sometimes to explain without visual aids. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyc Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Hind site is always 20-20. I think Jordan is right. I don't think I would have had elongated stitches if I would have channeled my stitch lines with less of a curve along the trigger guard area. Regis That Makarov is one of the Russian commercial models Comrade Mike Work overtime, cuff and stuff bad guys, buy Artisan 3000, build lots of holsters, quit police department, then live happily ever after. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Hey Randyc, you're really coming along. This is much smoother looking than the last holster. BTW, in my experience with the Artisan (which admittedly is not much), the stitch length only changes when you are taking the curve too fast , which allows the foot to slip, or if you are going extremely slow and turning the material when the needle is not burried in leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutEast Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Thanks for all the explinations and tips fellas. I appreciate it. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
