making my own Stamps

[Sanch]

Cold rolled steel is normally 1018 (18 points of carbon), and you need 25 on up to get any hardness. 40 will start to give a decent hardness-more though than hard, and something like 1095 will achieve a glass hard state. The question is why harden it at all? Soft steel is harder then wet leather. To harden a low carbon steel you can case harden it. This process adds enough carbon in a thin layer to accept a heat treating. There are case hardening products out that can be done at home. Now just because it is called tool steel doesn't mean it is very expensive. W-1, and O-1 tool steels are very inexpensive, and there are tons of scrap yard tool steel items (coil springs, hay rake teeth, etc) that can be used to make tools. Again, soft steel vs wet leather, and hit with a wood, or rawhide mallet--why worry about heat treating? I have seen old tools that were made from large nails that have held up just fine.

I can buy bar ends from work in copper, brass, stainless, aluminum, steel, and beryllium copper. Sizes range from .0625"-.875" typically, but occasionally 1.00" Some materials we run are only in certain sizes, but some are from one end to the other. Just depends what is being made in the shop that month. Any of these would be easy to shape with files, or a Dremel type tool. The Beryllium alloys though can be an inhalation hazard though when sanding, or polishing. It is when a fine dust is made that gets airborne that they become a problem. A process like filing is not hazardous to your health. Neat stuff,and it will heat treat.

For more metalworking info you can go to another site that I am on www.iforgeiron.com it is like LW, but with metal and fire.

thanks, it was just a thought and thanks for the info on the other site.

[newfiebackflip]

Well I have an ace up my sleeve for these Argentine tools. My fiance is from there and her mother is going there next month. Maybe I can get her to see if she can find me some when she gets there lol If not I will have my little lady just translate the entire page for me to figure out how to get them.

Stamps and tools for leathercraft in Argentina, he is a maker. The website is not writed in english but you can look at the models.

http://www.herramientasdobleg.com.ar/produ..._mateadores.php

http://www.herramientasdobleg.com.ar/produ...do_rodillos.php

Be careful! They have a low price for Argentina and another very high price for foreign.

[stanly]

WESTBOUND, on 10 April 2010 - 09:23 PM, said:

Thanks Pelallito,

That is what I needed to know. I guess I will stick with the Stainless steel bolts for making my custom tools. Going to a junk yard and cutting out suspension springs is more than I want to deal with right now, although that is good to know for future reference.

Stanly:

Here is a idea/ fact about wrecking yard springs - 95% of the Ford Escort wagon rear OEM springs are already broken in two (common defect).

IF you live near Spokane, WA I think I still have at least one FREE for you

newfiebackflip

Well I have an ace up my sleeve for these Argentine tools. My fiance is from there and her mother is going there next month. Maybe I can get her to see if she can find me some when she gets there lol If not I will have my little lady just translate the entire page for me to figure out how to get them.

Stanly:

"comprar" top button is "to buy in Spanish"

the left button below the embossed in metal button is Tools for leather and has more tools.

Think you could get your fiance to do a little shipping?

Fiance mother visiting - district of Floresta, City of Buenos Aires?

From Babel translation:

To return to embossed in metal

Mateadores

They produce a drawing when pressing them on soft tin, aluminum, alpaca and other metals.

50 models, in three sizes: mini, medium and great.

Art. 100 Art. 110

Art. 112 Art. 116 Art. 151 Art. 177 Art. 180 Art. 190Art. 194 Art. 199 Art. 200 Art. 201 Art. 202

Art. 169

Forms available

click to extend

The drawings are not to real size. In order to see them real size, it unloads the catalogue of tools to print. (pgs.s 6 to 9)

• 
  The drawings show the reason that produces the tool when pressing it on the material.
• The numbers that will see when extending correspond to the model of each tool. an order mentions this number when doing.

Edited February 17, 2011 by stanly

[bstomper]

Found this thread yesterday and got all excited as I have some stainless rod hidden away from another job. I must have hidden it away pretty good as I couldn't find it but I found some old car engine valves that I'm pretty sure are stainless, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Any one else tried them? Well I knocked one into a rough shape of a stamp I wanted with an angle grinder and went to work with my dremel. Man those things are hard!! I did enough to see that I could make it work but would need a better diamond tip or something for my dremel. I have a barb wire pattern roller and I want to put the pattern on a stamp. Had lot of trouble grinding the centres out. Any ideas or advice?

Like I said, didn't get this one finished and made enough mistakes on it not to finish it, but come a rainy day I've still got plenty of valves left.....

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

One thing to watch out for on some engine exhaust valves are that they are sodium cooled. You don't want to let the sodium out if they are. One truck engine that I know that has these are the 1960's GMC V6 engine series. My Dad had a 1966 GMC with the 305 V6, and it had the sodium cooled exhaust valves. Some of the older radial aircraft engines also had sodium cooled valves.

For the Dremel try carbide burrs.

For stamps I would suggest the type of stainless that I have 303. 303 SS is a free machining alloy that cuts really nice.

Brass, aluminum, or copper will also work, and is easier to carve. It wont rust either. A face could be attached to a steel handle to pound on, but a rawhide mallet shouldn't mushroom a brass, aluminum, or copper stamp too bad.

Edited March 18, 2011 by BIGGUNDOCTOR

[TexasLady]

7/4/11

Hi candyleather,

I don't see your name on either of the Threads at these two links you've given. I wanted to see your Stamps. But then, I see on your profile that you haven't posted since 2008. Do you ever come around any more? Thanks. - TexasLady

My own stamps in the forum

http://www.leatherwo...p?showtopic=671

http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.p...pic=673&hl=

Edited July 4, 2011 by TexasLady

[DemBrodaz]

Hi Robert,

wonderful contents on the subject, but as it is quite an old post...the links aren't working anymore.

Would it be possible to repost them?

Thank you for your help!

Gergo

[/font]

Making your own tools

12-8-07

Tools I used for this project

Bench grinder

Mill file

Coarse emery cloth

Medium emery cloth

600 grit wet/dry sandpaper

1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper

Rag wheel on bench grinder, with Ryobi stainless polishing compound

Rag wheel on hand held drill with white rouge

Brownells checkering file – 75 Lines per inch

Hacksaw (to cut the threads off)

Magnifying glasses

I work on tools away from my leather bench… you don't want metal filings on your bench or on your leather.

For this project, I am going to make a Sheridan style thumbprint. Pear shaders and Thumbprints are easiest to make because they relatively easy, and I, for one, like to have a variety – different sizes, long lined, cross lined, cross hatched, etc., and if they are slightly different shapes, so much the better. Thumbprints have a flatter bottom and are not generally walked like a pearshader, so this particular tool is pretty flat, but make it any way that suits you. Also, many thumbprints don't taper to a point on the end, and are used essentially as two different tools – each end is a different size and can be used as needed. However, I like having a more tapered end that will fit into the end of my "stickers" or "vines", whatever you call them.

Leaf liners and center liners are easy too – they look flat on the face but have a slight curvature.

Bevelers have to be shaped right or they leave tracks, and you want you different size bevellers to have the same angle, so they are a little tougher, but not too bad.

For the thumbprint in this project, the general process I followed is:

1. I use stainless steel bolts, at least 5.5 inches long (I have started using 6"). I typically use 3 sizes – ¼, 5/16, and 3/8. The smaller ones are less than $2 each, and the larger are just over $2. You can use regular bolts or nails or anything, just check for corrosion before you use it – just stamp it on some scrap. I used regular zinc covered bolts for a while, and they work just fine – I have several that are part of my regularly used tools.

2. Leave the bolt threads on – you can use that to clamp in your vise while you work, then saw them off. I like tools with a final length of either 4.25" or 4.5" long.

3. Draw the rough shape of your tool on the bolt head with a Sharpie. This gives you a rough idea of how much metal to remove on a grinder before you get to the more detailed work.

4. Use a grinder to rough out the outside shape – I do this very rough. I don't try to do any curvature with a grinder (for example, I don't do the bottom of a shader with the grinder). Picture 1 is the tool and the impression when I finish with the grinder. Note it is very rough, and large. The grinder is just for bulk metal removal… but it takes too much off too fast to be used for detail work.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4390.jpg

5. Once you have the rough shape, use a mill file to give you tool shape. I find it easiest to have a finished tool to compare to as I go. Many tools have subtle curves that you don't really notice until you try to make your own. Stamp your new tool into test leather often to make sure you are getting the shape you want. Note the second impression – it is a little smaller, and has a little more shape. This is about the point I stop using the file and go to emory cloth.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4394.jpg

6. Continue to refine the shape. Once you are happy with the rough shape, use coarse emory cloth to put the final shape to it. Impression #3 is about the point at which I stopped using the coarse emory cloth. The scrap in the picture is to give you an idea of how often I am testing the stamp as I go.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4395.jpg

7. Continue to refine the shape - use medium emory cloth then 600 grit to work out the grinder and file marks. Impression #4 is taken while I was using the medium emory cloth. See how much smaller the stamp is getting? Don't take too much off with the grinder… it is easy to make a tool smaller, but you can't make it larger!

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4396.jpg

8. At this point, I will clean up the tool and take it to my bench and do some testing with it. Typically, that leads me back to step 6 with the coarse emory cloth. Repeat as many times as necessary (hey, nobody said this was simple J). Impression #5 is taken while I was working with the 600 grit paper in the testing stage. See on the face of the tool – you can see very fine marks that I haven't worked out yet – I will work those out too.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4398.jpg

9. Once you like the shape, use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper to put a nice polish on it. Then I put the smooth tool to use and make sure it walks if it is a walking tool, and just generally make sure it is going to work.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4399.jpg

6. Then polish with a rag wheel on a bench grinder (I use rouge for stainless first, followed by a different wheel with white rouge on it). Then it is time for the lining tool. On this tool, I am using a 75 LPI file from Brownells (www.brownells.com). I try to get one end of the tool face, then line it up and get the other end of the tool face. I use magnifying glasses to get the lines lined up after I have run the file across the face once. It is tough to line them up, and takes practice. Don't be afraid to file off the lines and start again. The good news is that, even it isn't perfect, nobody will notice on your leather! I studied one of my good tools from a custom maker under a magnifying glass, and the lines aren't perfect, but you can't tell that in the stamp impression.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4400.jpg

7. Then back to the scrap, to test some more now that the lining is done.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4402.jpg

8. Once you are happy with it, take a fine brush and some household cleaner (even a tooth brush) and clean out any filings, and clean up the metal dust. Then cut the tool to the right length with a hacksaw and clean up the rough end. Do some final polishing, then you have your finished tool!

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4403.jpg

9. Here are a few tools I have made. There are a couple of leaf liners, a small and a medium thumbprint, a set of fine bevelers (75 LPI) and a set of coarser bevelers (50 LPI), and a veiner.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4404.jpg

I will probably put these tools on E-bay over time, so if anybody wants any of them, let me know.

Hope this is helpful. Have fun… jump in and start filing – that's the best way to learn.

[robert]

Hi Robert,

wonderful contents on the subject, but as it is quite an old post...the links aren't working anymore.

Would it be possible to repost them?

Thank you for your help!

Gergo

Wow... yes, this is an old post, but it has lots of great info from lots of people. I am glad my tutorial has been helpful. I think these are the photos I used. A couple may be out of order, but the first few have numbers written by each impression - that should get you going pretty well. The last photo wasnt on the original post, but is a notebook I submitted to the Texas State Fair a few years ago. The floral tooling is done with the shopmade stamps shown. I hope this helps.

Robert

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4390.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4394.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4395.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4396.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4398.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4399.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4400.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4402.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4403.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4404.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4108.jpg

[gtwister09]

I created a PDF of Robert's post after the crash so it is not perfect text wise but it does have the photos linked within the PDF. Hope that helps.

Robert Woods - Making your own tools.pdf

Regards,

Ben

[joefarmer]

Here are a couple sheets about making stamping tools.

Joefarmer

[Chef niloc]

1258655529[/url]' post='131649']

Excellent thread, pushed me over the edge to try my hand at making my first stamp.

I have only seen stamps on the internet so the first thing I had to do was to measure on my computer screen what the relation between length and width should be. I found some nice examples of stamps and decided to go for a single rope configuration close to what Barry King makes.

The tools:

A Dremel (saves a lot of elbow grease) with different cutting wheels.

Sandpaper (400 grit, 1000 grit).

Two small files, a triangular and a flat.

A stainless bolt.

Hearing protection.

Safety glasses.

So from this:

I transformed it to this:

It is not perfect (I am not Barry King ) but good enough to make me want to keep on making my own stamps. I am going to work on the "teeth" and make them a bit smaller so I get an even better shading effect.

I am very satisfied knowing that if I have the time I can make most of the stamps I need. My leather crafting skill is just at a beginner level but I would definitely try something more advanced than a regular basket weave pattern in the future.

To anyone hesitating to start a project like this: This is the first item I have ever made in steel. I have no education in producing stuff. If you plan on doing something like this instead of buying a stamp, try it! Take it easy, go slow with the decisions on how to make the next cut. Leave one or two tenths of a millimetre as a margin when you are cutting with your dremel (might sound small but in no time you will notice deviations that small). Remove the rest with files and/or sanding paper. Take a lot of breaks in between cuts so that you always plan ahead. And do not forget your safety glasses and hearing protection.

I will take the opportunity to thank Chuck Barrows and Bob Park, for their excellent tutorials on how to sew leather and finish it properly.

A big thank you also goes out to the nice people in this forum giving a lot of advice to newbies like me. Without you I would probably have been stumbling in the dark for years before achieving any results worth mentioning.

I will post some pictures of my work in the future, together with a proper introduction. Now where is that link so I can order some pitch and start brewing my own thread wax.

I believe I am hooked.

/Juha (Sweden)

Wow !I was looking threw this thread trying to figure out how basket weaves were made. They just seem so intricate and impossible to make, I couldn't even think we're to start. You did a amazing job! It's been a few years I'd love to see how you work has progressed

[kayw]

made a set of matching low angle bevelers in seven sizes. They are cut at a 15 degree angle and are checkered with a #4 file.

ClayM.

Hi Clay, say - how did you do the knurling on your tools above? It looks very professional. KayW

[Clay]

Hi Clay, say - how did you do the knurling on your tools above? It looks very professional. KayW

I used a scissor type knurling tool on the lathe.

Clay

[jmkjmk2]

I have started making my own Stamps and would like to share and have others that make their own Stamps share "How and What" they have made and are making.

I started out altering my Craftools after taking some leather carving seminars and getting to see and use quality stamps and experience the difference they made in my tooling. Not all of the hand tools I use are necessary to make stamps and none of the power tools are needed to make most of the stamps. So even on a limited budget you can make or alter stamps for better tooling results. I make my stamps 4¼" long because I have large hands and I find them more comfortable to hold for long periods of time. At first I did not finish the stems but I am starting to do that now. I texture the middle section with 36 grit abrasive belts, spin the stamp in the drill press and cut the groves with a hacksaw blade and polish both ends. The texturing is easier on my fingers over long periods and grips as well as checkering. I keep the striking surface square for better strikes.

Some of the stamps look lope sided in the picture but they are not, it's just my poor pictures.

For my blanks I use Stainless Steel Bolts (304 stainless) diameter ¼" 5/16" 3/8" Head sizes 7/16", ½", 9/16" with long unthreaded shanks and Stainless Steel 1/4 " rod.

Some of the hand tools I use are small jewelers files, checkering files 20, 30, 40, 50 and 75 lines per inch, mill and smooth bastard files, jewelers saw, hack saw, vise and sand paper. Power tools include a drill press, belt sander (Burr King 870 with knife makers attachments), Dremal tool, Dental hand-piece and a buffer (3/4 hp. Baldor).

Latter I will post some special stamps that I made to assist me in tooling.

I would like to here what you are making and any tips you have for making them.

[Steve Lowe]

Thank you to ghstrydr164 for starting this thread and to everyone who has added their input.

I went to the renaissance festival a while ago and bought a leather bound book because the tooling was great and the girl that ran the booth said she made all of her own stamps and had them on site to proove it.

I have been obsessed with making my own stamps and could not find anything in YouTube or elsewhere. Maybe I hit the end of the internet because this was the last place I looked. HA HA wink wink. nudge nudge...

Now I am off to get a vise. I already have the files and dremmel tools needed. I collect tools when I need them and have never needed.... "NEEDED" a vise until now.

I have all these designs in my head and now I just need to get them on some steel.

Quick general question:

I see where I can click to "Watch this topic, but is there anywhere I can mark the page to come back to it later? I big into backpacking and I am part of the hammock fourms and they keep a list of threads that you mark, or are "watching" as it were.

I dont see where I can go to a list. If I want to add more stuff here, I feel like I have to wait until someone posts and I am e-mailed that a new post has been posted.

Am I making sense? Where is my list of threads that I am watching?

Wooooooo whoooooooo time for some stamp making.

Thanks again to all.

[cudofcow]

I'm wondering if anyone has tried to use 3D printing to create custom stamps? I was browsing Shapeways.com and noticed that you can use your own CAD designs to create stainless steel 3D printed objects. Could make for some really amazing designs. People on that site have used 3D printing to create replacement parts for home appliances, I wonder if the steel is any good for leatherworking purposes. Just thoughts...

[cem]

I've used shapeways in the past and had wondered if it would be possible to make stamps with the stainless, I'm not sure if they would be strong enough though with a long shaft like normal stamps but I had thought of trying something like the Tandy letter stamps where a smaller pieces pushes into the main shaft.

If anyone else wants to look into this as well a free fairly easy to pick up program is available here http://www.123dapp.com/123d It's made by Autodesk and is a scaled down version of their 3D Inventor software. Anyone else who already knows about 3D CAD a stl file is usually what shapeways wants. I believe they take other formats as well but stl seems to be the easiest format for them to work with.

Cheers,

Clair

Edited September 16, 2012 by cem

[lwleathers]

I don't think the stainless steel 3D models made in shapeways will be suitable for leather stamping. As they are not solid stainless steel, strength is a question. They might be able to make 100% fillings on the model but the price will be very high. Secondly, their stainless steel final polising is quite raw, it may leave undesirable marks.

But I've never made anything from shapeways and my speculations are only based on what they describe on the website.

http://www.shapeways.com/materials/steel

It's definitely an interesting thing to try! Would be great to hear from someone who had experience making a stamp from them.

[cem]

I had a couple of models I needed printed at Shapeways so I thought I would try a stamp as well so here are the results in stainless. Keep in mind this is a small stamp the cem part is 14mm Length x 4mm width. I haven't had to make a part with tolerances for awhile so the hole isn't big enough for the Tandy letter handle but I found a pin punch that works with it.

The stainless is heavy and feels like metal, there is some stepping on the sides which is expected with the 3D printing process but it doesn't interfere with how the stamp works. There was some powder residue in the small crevices most I was able to get out with a scalpel blade but what is left doesn't show in the impression. Bottom of the cem has been polished slightly as well as the rectangular backing. The leather I punched into is 3mm and the cem part is 4mm plenty of depth so as not to get marking from the rectangular backing.

I'm pretty happy with it and I will be using it for some things I make, I also had a plastic version made as well but haven't used that as yet as I want to make a mold of it first and cast it into a stronger plastic. I don't think this process will take over from cnc milled stamps but it is another process that can be used and I had fun experimenting with it. The cost of the stainless stamp was $12.45 and the plastic $4.20, I wouldn't of purchased if I only had these to do as Shapeways now has a $20.00 shipping fee to Australia so I waited until I could bundle them with something else.

Please excuse the quality of the photos I had to use my phone as someone forgot to charge the battery again on our family camera, the stamp is smoother than what it appears in the photos.

This also could be a possibility for one off buckle inlays for belt makers.

Cheers,

Clair

[lwleathers]

Hi Clair,

Thanks for sharing the stamp you made on Shapeway! I wonder how big (dimension of the design) was the stamp you made?

Cheers,

Calvin

[cem]

Hi Calvin,

Total height of the stamp is 1.5 cm x 1.6 cm width at the rectangle part sorry I don't know how to convert it to inches, I didn't want to try anything too big in case it didn't work.

Cheers,

Clair

[Fullmetalsam]

Hi Clair,

This is soemthing I've been looking into as well (Shapeways for leather stamps).

You said in a previous post that you had ordered both the stainless and the plastic version of that stamp... did you ever get around to using the plastic stamp as well ??? How did it perform compared to the stainless one ???

[cem]

Hi Fullmetalsam,

Sorry just saw your message, I only got to use the plastic one once it worked okay but wasn't heavy enough at that size and unfortunately it didn't survive the silicone molding process the cem part came away in pieces and to top it off the mold had an air bubble in it, the cast in resin worked better but because of the air bubble I'm not able to use it. If you want to try a plastic one from Shapeways I would try something bigger, once I need something else from Shapeways I'll probably give it another go as well.

Cheers,

Clair

[Fullmetalsam]

Hi Clair,

Thanks for your reply.... even if it's a sad story for that stamp : )

I was looking at shapeways for a bigger stamp (almost 2"x2") and I have ordered a plastic one before you had replied. At that size the stainless steel is not too affordable : ) But I can't wait to see how it's going to perform - even if I only get a couple good impressions out of it, it's going to have paid for it self and may get the stainless steel version when the plastic one is destroyed.

I can update this thread with the result of that stamp once I get it - I know I've been searching for this kind of information for a long time. : )

[oreste]

Hello people

Hello from Germany, I have read with interresse these posts and would like to use material a notice geben.Ich round brass rods from the hardware store for example 6mm cut into pieces-is hard enough and will not rust and will not rub off too.