GrampaJoel Report post Posted November 28, 2022 7 hours ago, toxo said: Excellent practical project and very well executed, well done. Thank you. Joel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrampaJoel Report post Posted November 28, 2022 (edited) 15 hours ago, DwightT said: I finished a dice cup today using your technique (mostly) for the base. I'll need some more practice, but I have to say that I like the process and the results much more than the flush base that I was doing. I started by cutting a circle that had a radius that was about 3/8" longer than the circle that I would have used for a flush fit. After skiving and wetting, I did some initial shaping over the Campbell soup can that I was using as a mandrel. I then inserted it into the tube, smoothed the fit and stitched it in. Next I cut off the excess (about 1/8"), and finished the edge as normal. As I said, I think it looks a lot better than what I was getting before. /dwight Ok,,, it looks you got the idea. I have found that if you make the overhang,(lip?) of the bottom about 1/4” in length,, it helps ‘hide’ the uneven underside stitching somewhat. my process is 1. to make the mold. 2. Then cut and skive it at the length I need. 3.Then put the stitch line on the outside wrap , before wrapping around the mandrel.. and mark the stitching holes. 4. when I stitch I use the outside marked stitching holes and push my awl through aiming for the center of the bottom. Hoping to get an even spacing on the underside. If you look closely at my picture in the above posting, you can see that it doesn’t always work. I think stitch spacing has a lot to do with it. Or maybe calculus, or quantum physics?? anyway,,, Dwight,,,I can see you have got the idea. Now all it takes is lots of practice, and patience. good going. Joel edit to add. The bottom molds a lot easier if it is about 1/2 as thick as the outside. Edited November 28, 2022 by GrampaJoel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
