GailC Report post Posted February 12, 2008 I am making my first set of holsters for mounted shooting. I'm using 9-10oz. veg & lining with pigskin. I was wondering if I should stiffen the opening of the holster or if I roll the pigskin over the edge if that would be enough? Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanx Gail Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gunfighter48 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 If it was me, I'd use 6-7 oz veg for the main shell. Then use 4-5 weight veg for the lining. Pig skin tends to grab onto the gun making speed draws tough. The main shell should be smooth side out and then glue in the lining flesh side to flesh side. This will give you smooth side inside the holster. Once molded it should provide enough hold to be secure but allow for speedy draws. Soft linings tend to hold dirt and grit which will scratch your guns. Try both ways and see what you like! John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted February 12, 2008 I'm not a big fan of pig skin lining, personally. If you're going to use it, make sure it's not chrome tanned or it may urt the finish of your firearm. The only cowboy style holster I ever made, I used two layers of 6/7 oz back to back, and it turned out beautifully. There are several others on this forum that have a lot more experience with classic rigs than me, so hopefully one of them will chime in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warren Report post Posted February 12, 2008 Gunfighter is right on the money. That is exactly the way I have done the last several holsters that I have made. Warren Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GailC Report post Posted February 12, 2008 Thanx guys for the input. I saw a shoulder holster made with 2 layers of veg tan & looked to be laquered. It was quite well done & stamped "Mernickle". I thought I should do these with the pigskin so it would grab them a bit because they get bounced around a little when your riding. I figure I won't be popular if someone loses a gun! If I go with the pigskin I might go to veg pig so it doesn't remove blueing....never thought of that, altho these guns are stainless. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warren Report post Posted February 12, 2008 (edited) Bob Mernickle is a very well known gunleather maker. He sells to a lot of cowboy action shooters. His holsters have a very shiny finish on them to allow for a faster draw. As for losing the gun, if you make the holster deep enough and wet mold it to the gun, it shouldn't bounce out of the holster while riding. Several of mine will hold onto the gun when it is turned upside down and shaken, HARD! Be sure when you wet mold to mold a bevel in the throat of the holster to allow easier re-holstering of the gun. The bad thing about the pigskin liner is that it will attract dirt (ask me how I know this,LOL) unless you put some kind of finish on it, which kind of defeats your purpose for using the pigskin. On the holsters I have made using pigskin for a lining, I went back and put Tan Cote on the inside to seal it. Guess what, now they aren't as secure as before, so I had to add hammer thongs to them. Not the thing you want to try to deal with on the back of a galloping horse. Hope this helps. Warren Edited February 12, 2008 by Warren Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Report post Posted February 12, 2008 When ever I've wet molded a gun holster, I used LOTS of suran wrap on the gun. For two reasons, to keep the gun dry, and then to make the gun bigger than it actually is. It takes several days to dry the leather and it shrinks, so when it's dry and you remove the wrapping that it'll actually fit reasonably well. Not too tight so you have to fight with it for removing. bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
