MarkNY Report post Posted September 15, 2023 I’m still trying to dial in settings on my class 26. Did 35 hat patches recently. 207 thread, 5oz veg tan. Every time I I come to a corner and do a half stitch and advance the needle by hand I get a loop of thread there. I also run into problems running over my starting point when finishing stitch. No matter what I did I could not rid of that knot that shows on bobbin thread. Any tips on these things? Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted September 15, 2023 If I Grok your setup, your patches are 5oz veg-tan and your thread is an astonishing size 207! I sew on patches for a living and I would use #92 bonded thread, with a #19 needle, for that thickness. With this thread size you'll have no trouble hiding/burying the knots. You are simply using a thread that is 3 times thicker than the leather can conceal. I don't use #207 thread in anything thinner than 10 to 12 ounces. It dawned on me that you might be using this oversized thread for appearances only. This is known as the Topstitching Effect. If this is the case, load the bobbin with #92 or #138 thread and use a #23 Schmetz "S" point needle.You'll have to tighten the bobbin tension to keep the knots below the top surface. The #23 S point needle makes a very tight inline slice that pulls the leading and trailing edges down below the top grain. By using a smaller bobbin thread, it is easier for the bobbin thread to overlap the top thread and form locks. The #207 top thread will try to overpower the smaller bobbin thread. Back off the top and tighten the bottom on test pieces until you get it right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkNY Report post Posted September 15, 2023 (edited) Thank you so much for that reply. Yes 207 for appearances only. I’ll try what you mentioned! Edited September 15, 2023 by MarkNY Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
