Thread choices, new to sewing leather,

[Wizcrafts]

On 10/3/2023 at 1:31 PM, TomE said:

I like the appearance of the S point needle stitching and use it mostly for 15-30 oz bridle leather.

The Schmetz S point is NOT available in System 135x16, which is the designated needle system for the Juki LU-563. However, Schmetz DOES make the S points in System 134-35, in sizes 80 through 200. These needles are about 1mm shorter than the standard walking foot needles and were made for certain Pfaff machines.

In order to use the S points in a Juki 563, or equivalent, one must lower the needle bar 1mm, then check the timing of the hook. Some people, myself included, have been able to use the Schmetz S point needles, without any adjustments, in Singer walking foot machines that only sew forward, not reverse. The Juki LU-563 is often used with reverse to lock the stitches at the beginning and end. Sewing in reverse requires precise timing of the hook and needle. This could be a problem with the shorter needle, unless the timing and check spring were tweaked to the Tees. I would simply lower the needle bar to place the hook above the eye, as per the machine's specfs, and leave it there, only using S points, or other System 134-35 needles. The maximum sewing thickness would be reduced by 1mm.

[ValJ]

On 10/2/2023 at 2:29 PM, kgg said:

I am not familiar with the bonded thread but BNT69 indicates it is Bonded Nylon Thread in size V69 thread which is the same as Tex 70. The polyester thread size has do with how much weight there is in  1000 meters and in this case 75 grams.

Some things to remember:

i) Buy good quality thread made in North America like A&E thread (made in Canada and USA) but stay away from Chinese made non name thread particularly the 8 oz spools.

ii) Items that are going to be exposed to the outdoors or to bleach Bonded Polyester Thread will stand up better then Bonded Nylon thread.

iii) The V69 (Tex 70) thread is the "strong thread" is the thickest thread that the domestic sewing machines can handle and is really the bottom end size / strength wise used in industrial sewing machines. Some industrial sewing machines  really don't like trying to use V69. Your machines is rated to V69 to V138 thread and probably would prefer V92 as the smallest size of thread.

iv) The strength of V69 is 11 lb, V92 is 14.5 lb, V138 is 22 lb

v) When sewing leather with your machine use 135 X 16 with the correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using (leather needles cut through the fibers of leather) and 135 X 17 for fabric with the correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using (fabric needles push apart the fibers of fabric

kgg

 

Just in case, I didn’t see it before this information was so very helpful, and I continue to refer back to it, thank you, thank you, thank you!