problems with C.S. Osborne #153 punch

[usmc0341]

Just wondering if anyone else has had problems with their C.S. Osborne #153 punch. I had a tube crack after very little use. I contacted them and was told to return it so they could look at it. I sent it back to them and they replaced the tube, but shipping costs were more then what a new tube would have cost. So I've been using this new tube for a holster made out of 8/9 oz. leather, and it just broke again. I'm less then impressed so far and was wondering if anyone else had issues or if I just got 2 bad tubes.

Brian

[Mike Craw]

Hey usmc341,

My first question is what are you using for a work surface under your leather? A rubber "pound-o-board" or one of those white cutting boards shouldn't cause cracking like you describe. If you have a really forgiving surface under your leather, you might have defied the odds and got two in a row.

The problem we have had with Osborne punches is plugging. When Osborne drills out the hole they don't polish the inner surface at all. Sometimes I think the holes get smaller up toward the port. Leather gets wedged in the tube to the point that successive punches begin to drive the leather cores down into the cutting surface. We have some boards that look like they were shotgun targets. We got a set of punches from Weaver, and while they are a little on the pricey side, they shoot the plugs out the ejection port like a champ. I personally think the extra expense is more than made up for in productivity.

Semper Fi

Mike

[usmc0341]

It's a spring handle punch, not a punch you hit with a hammer so I don't really have a work surface. What you described about plugging seems to be the problem, however there is no good way to unclog it since it's a 00 tube. It seems to unclog itself sometimes, but I guess it gets so full it breaks. I'm not sure how to fix the problem, and so far their customer service isn't helping. Is there a better punch you would recommend, I'm still new to this and I was recommended to the Osborne tools. Any advice would be appreciated since I'm halfway done my holster and don't have a punch now.

Semper Fi,

Brian

Edited November 27, 2007 by usmc0341

[Mike Craw]

Brian,

I don't know the Osborne punches by their number designations, so I didn't realize that the punch was so small. Our punches are for saddle work, usually 1/8" and up. Are you punching for lace? I always hand stitch my holsters, but I know that some of the folks on this board drill their lace holes as they have discussed in other threads. Since you are in mid-project, that might be a viable alternative if you have a drill bit of similar diameter. As far as alternate manufacturers, the only other supplier that I know of is the Tandy/Hidecrafter style, which might not even be as good as the Osborne and those would be hand-held hammer driven punches. If you have any replacement tubes for your rig, I suggest dialing back on your grip...somewhere in the...well, I was going to name another service branch, but I've already stirred up enough stuff this week.

Hope you can finish your holster without undue delay. Is it for duty or personal use?

Mike

[usmc0341]

I'm punching hole for handsticthing. I've used the drill bit way before, but I had problems with the bit moving off the mark. Tandy tools are made by Craftool I think, but I figured Osborne would have been better. I wish I had replacement tubes, but I figured this tube would last me a bit longer (hindsight is always 20/20). I guess I'll wait for Dominic Amador to contact me from Osborne. He's the one that called me before, but told me he would call me back and hasn't yet. I feel like I just flushed $65.00 down the drain! And the holster is for a buddy of mine for concealed carry, we get our duty holsters issued to us. I guess when I get my next replacement tube I'll scale back to an Air Force grip so I don't break this one too, the only problem with that is that it doesn't punch all the way through the leather. I'll post the results from Osborne as soon as they call me.

Semper Fi,

Brian

[Mike Craw]

Brian,

Not that it's a good idea to switch techniques in mid-project, but if you plan to to much stitching it would be worth your while to get a diamond shaped awl and get good with it. Production speed will be your reward. If you can use a high speed drill to finish this one, I have had success with a Dremel using a fine bit. If you try exposing only enough of the bit to get through all the thicknesses of leather, youi shouldn't have too much deflection problem. Take a small round piece of leather (use a three hold punch on some lining leather) and run it down over the bit and let it rest against the mandril on the tool. That way, if your bit goes through quicker than you expect, the leather washer will keep the mandril from making a bullseye around your hole for all the world to see...

Semper Fi

[Luke Hatley]

IT MIGHT HELP SOME, TO KEEP A BLOCK OF PARAFIN HANDY

AND EVER SO OFTEN MAKE A FEW PUNCHES INTO THE PARAFIN.

THAT WILL MAKE A SLICK SURFACE FOR THE PUNCHED LEATHER

TO SLIDE OUT OF THE TUBES.

[usmc0341]

Mike,

Thanks for the advice, maybe this "oppurtunity" will help me find alternate methods. That is not how I used the drill bit last time so maybe that will work better. I'm still not happy with Osborne right now, but hopefully they will make this right. I will post results good or bad, because I believe smaller companies base alot on word of mouth. Thanks again

Brian

[usmc0341]

Luke, sorry I missed your post. I've never heard of parafin , but sounds like a good idea. I thought about spraying something non-stick on it but wasn't sure what.

Brian

[Luke Hatley]

ARE YOU USEING AN OSBOURN RELVOVING PUNCH??

IF YOU ARE, IMHO. IF I HAD A LOT OF HOLES TO PUNCH

I WOULD BE USEING A round drive punch. it will work a lots better.

[Luke Hatley]

ARE YOU USEING AN OSBOURN RELVOVING PUNCH??

IF YOU ARE, IMHO. IF I HAD A LOT OF HOLES TO PUNCH

I WOULD BE USEING A round drive punch. it will work a lots better.

AND USE A END GRAIN BLOCK OF WOOD.

[usmc0341]

It's not a revolving punch, just one tube. Is the round punch youre talking about the one you hit with a hammer?? I figured the one I was using was the fastest since you don't have to line it up then hit it with a hammer, but I've never used one. I'm definitely changing something. I just spoke with Dominic from Osborne, and he said it was a problem with the tube not having enough clearance on the inside causing it to clog up. He said they will be fixing the problem, but waiting on machine time. He said he will be sending me a replacement, but no timeframe. In the meantime I guess I'll do the drill thing. I guess I'm the only one having the problems with this thing.

Brian

[Beaverslayer]

Brian, what I do when I get a punch bunged up like the 00, I will use a regular sewing needle or safety pin to pluck the stuck pieces out. Just stick the needle in, and pluck it out.

Ken

[tonyc1]

Hi Brian. I've been using Osborne rotary punches for years and I've punched thousands of holes and they will eventually break pieces off the cutting edge just with use and I accept that, but over the last 3 months I've had 3 split after just a few holes and one had only punched 2 holes. When I complained about them, the supplier replaced them with no hassle.. The quality seems to have dropped and I even suggested they may be getting them from China as many other suppliers are these days.

I've been using my old Dixon drive punches for 40 years and they were secondhand when I got them and have punched thousands of holes in leather and PVC webbing and have never had one split. The relief inside them is perfect. I did get a new Dixon 1 1/2" punch about 5 years ago and the edges just rolled over, the quality in the newer punches is not very good and neither is the finish compared to punches 50 or 60 years ago.

I've always punched on a pure lead block, it doesn't hurt the punches and there is no rebound or give in it. It must weigh about 25 lb. I remelt when it gets too cut up in an old 9 inch aluminium frying pan about 2 1/2" deep and when it melts I just scoop off the dross and let it cool down and you have 2 nice, flat faces to punch your holes on. Just get some scrap lead and an old frying and you'll have a great surface to punch on! Happy punching, Tony.

[usmc0341]

Ken,

Thanks for the reply, that's what I was trying to use to unclog the first one. Problem is that it jams so much, I have to keep unscrewing the tube and cleaning it out which consumes a good bit of time.

Tony,

I skipped going to the supplier and just sent an email to Dominic Amador (Vice President of Sales). Apperantly this is a problem with the 00 tubes. He said they've fixed it before, but sometimes go back to the old way and then you get the tubes that split. I'm not too happy with this thing so far and it's like pulling teeth to get them to do anything about it. When I buy something more expensive from a smaller company, I expect it to work, and if it doesn't work I expect the customer service to be better! I'll see how they handle the situation, but so far it sounds like they knew they were having problems with these tubes, yet still gave customers the run around when they break.

Brian

[ryan]

I too have noticed a drop in quality in osborne's belt punches. I don't use the tube punches much anymore. I have bought a couple of punches from Weaver lately that work like a dream. Their brand are called Master Tools. I normally use a piece of polyethelene cutting board material underneath as this seems to give the best surface for me.