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Posted
38 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

you will just have to start with a courser stone. Not the coarsest for that small Knick but not the finest either, take your time. I sharpen a lot during my off time setting on my butt when time doesn't mean much.

Sounds like a 1000-grit waterstone, or the equivalent in another kind of abrasive, would be a good place to start.  220-grit waterproof sandpaper might work, too, then work up through 320 and 400, followed by a good stropping.

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Posted

The only commercial shop I would trust for a splitter blade is ....none of them unless you really know their work. They mostly all say they can, but I get the results to fix. Coarse grit patterns, irregular bevels, or wavy edges. I would only trust a shop that does planer blades and can go out to some ridiculously fine grits. I cant speak to Weaver or my pals at Cobra. 

By hand take your pick - wet-dry or stone, then strop. The mechanics aren't hard, maintaining a consistent angle the entire blade width by hand is. I have been sharpening splitter blades at least 25 years/selling tools as a business for 14 years and I'd like to have every edge tool I did in the first 23 years back. What has changed is that I have evolved with machines, abrasives,  jigs, fixtures, and a sharpness testing system that have helped me improve significantly. 

Currently I say don't do outside sharpening but always resharpen anything bought from me (new or used) for no cost - just the cost of return shipping. That said, I have weak moments and do some outside work. If you get in a jam, call me. I am seriously busy with prepping for the Sheridan show right now and once I'm past that - I'm a lot more open. 

 

Bruce Johnson

Malachi 4:2

"the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey

Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com

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