6 inch hollow ground Splitter blades need sharpening

[Doc Reaper]

Guys, actually anyone on the east coast, where can I get my splitter blades sharpened???

I have one with a slight Knick in the cutting edge and two that are dull. There is a curve behind the cutting edge (aka hollow ground) and I don't have a clue where to sharpen them.

Any input would be appreciated 

[TomE]

Not East Coast but Leather Machine Co has a blade sharpening service for the Class 14 splitter.  The blades are hollow ground.  I've seen comments stating that they also sharpen blades for other machines.  I would search for a local service that sharpens wood working tools.  

[DieselTech]

I also believe Weaver Leather has a blade sharpening service. 

[chuck123wapati]

Its just another blade man sharpen it up. 

[jcuk]

This is more or less how i do mine, if you have access to a bench buffer/polisher machine you will be surprise how much that will keep a nice edge you will not need to sharpen very much, don't let the blade get to hot just a quick polish 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uUvErBUG68

Hope this helps

JCUK

[Doc Reaper]

Chuck123, (FJB) I'm thankful for your efforts, looks like I'll be standing (FJB) here (with wet/dry sandpaper) sharpening these blades by hand. It's gonna take a bit to remove this Knick that's about 174th of an inch or the thickness of a sheet of paper. It's small but requires a lot of rubbing to make it go away.

[Doc Reaper]

4 hours ago, jcuk said:

This is more or less how i do mine, if you have access to a bench buffer/polisher machine you will be surprise how much that will keep a nice edge you will not need to sharpen very much, don't let the blade get to hot just a quick polish 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uUvErBUG68

Hope this helps

JCUK

I saw this and others on utube, but my concern (FJB) was with a Knick on the blade (FJB) that will require lots of effort (FJB) on my part, and I'm lazy in my old age! But there are many videos that tackle (FJB) the task at hand. I'm going to use the wet/dry method, it will remove more than a small stone will

[Doc Reaper]

6 hours ago, TomE said:

Not East Coast but Leather Machine Co has a blade sharpening service for the Class 14 splitter.  The blades are hollow ground.  I've seen comments stating that they also sharpen blades for other machines.  I would search for a local service that sharpens wood working tools.  

Thanks TomE,  the Leather Machine Co. will be my 2nd option (FJB) if I feel hand sharpening isn't enough )FJB( to deal with the Knick, I might even make a video of the process. 

[TomE]

9 minutes ago, Doc Reaper said:

Thanks TomE,  the Leather Machine Co. will be my 2nd option (FJB) if I feel hand sharpening isn't enough )FJB( to deal with the Knick, I might even make a video of the process. 

Nigel Armitage has a video on sharpening the blade of an Osborne #84 splitter.  He swings the blade around 180 deg and leaves it clamped to the base of the splitter.  That's what I do for my Taiwanese Tandy Pro splitter. 

Edited to add: That is the video posted above by @jcuk.  Guess CS Osborne likes his method.

Edited April 22 by TomE

[chuck123wapati]

43 minutes ago, Doc Reaper said:

Chuck123, (FJB) I'm thankful for your efforts, looks like I'll be standing (FJB) here (with wet/dry sandpaper) sharpening these blades by hand. It's gonna take a bit to remove this Knick that's about 174th of an inch or the thickness of a sheet of paper. It's small but requires a lot of rubbing to make it go away.

you will just have to start with a courser stone. Not the coarsest for that small Knick but not the finest either, take your time. I sharpen a lot during my off time setting on my butt when time doesn't mean much.

[Mablung]

38 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

you will just have to start with a courser stone. Not the coarsest for that small Knick but not the finest either, take your time. I sharpen a lot during my off time setting on my butt when time doesn't mean much.

Sounds like a 1000-grit waterstone, or the equivalent in another kind of abrasive, would be a good place to start.  220-grit waterproof sandpaper might work, too, then work up through 320 and 400, followed by a good stropping.

[bruce johnson]

The only commercial shop I would trust for a splitter blade is ....none of them unless you really know their work. They mostly all say they can, but I get the results to fix. Coarse grit patterns, irregular bevels, or wavy edges. I would only trust a shop that does planer blades and can go out to some ridiculously fine grits. I cant speak to Weaver or my pals at Cobra. 

By hand take your pick - wet-dry or stone, then strop. The mechanics aren't hard, maintaining a consistent angle the entire blade width by hand is. I have been sharpening splitter blades at least 25 years/selling tools as a business for 14 years and I'd like to have every edge tool I did in the first 23 years back. What has changed is that I have evolved with machines, abrasives,  jigs, fixtures, and a sharpness testing system that have helped me improve significantly. 

Currently I say don't do outside sharpening but always resharpen anything bought from me (new or used) for no cost - just the cost of return shipping. That said, I have weak moments and do some outside work. If you get in a jam, call me. I am seriously busy with prepping for the Sheridan show right now and once I'm past that - I'm a lot more open.