ArcherBen Report post Posted January 15, 2009 I just finished my first attempt at an Askins Avenger style holster last night. I found this design a lot more difficult than the few pancake styles that I've built. This was cut out of a new double shoulder that I bought in December from my local leather shop. I don't know what tannery it came from, but it sure seems to be of much better quality than the first piece I worked from. Also a first, I applied the dye and finish with my new airbrush. The main body was dyed with Feibings Cordovan. The throat band was initially dyed with Feibings Light Brown ut it looked really orange next to the cordovan so I darkened it up with a couple of coats of Medium Brown. I strapped this on for about an hour last night and found it to be comfortable, but to not conceal as well as my pancake style holsters. My pancake holsters tend to pull the whole gun close into my body, whereas this holster seems to pull the butt of the gun in close, but not the top of the slide. For those who have made this design, do you find that this is the nature of the design, or do I need to change something? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdb Report post Posted January 15, 2009 Being a skinny guy, I had the same problem with that style, until I switched to a pancake style, so I'm gonna agree. Nice job on that one. I kinda like the "two tone" look. THe stitches are nice and tight to the weapon. Not sure that belt is stiff enough though...lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArcherBen Report post Posted January 15, 2009 Not sure that belt is stiff enough though...lol I think I'm sensing a little sarcasm there. That is the first gun belt I've ever had and it's pretty solid with a gun on it. Also, I forgot to mention, critique, comments, and suggestions are welcome. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted January 15, 2009 That is a real nice job. Looks comfortable, stable and has a good color. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drac Report post Posted January 16, 2009 I did my take on one of those last week and don't have the problem with the slide not pulling in close. I'm very skinny and did the holster for an FN FiveseveN. what I did differently was have the belt loop that's directly behind the holster not attached to the throat, keep it that loop very tight (my belt just barely fits through it) and have a sharper angle to the cant. I also used 9-10oz (partially coz that's what I had at the time) leather on mine and tend to stitch all the way around the rear belt hole. btw your stitching and molding look great! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrTobes Report post Posted January 16, 2009 Looks great! How in the world did you get the pistol's detail so clean and crisp into the leather? Granted, I have only made one holster and am a complete newb, mine didn't come out nearly that sharp. I used 9-10oz, which I am guessing might be why. What weight did you use? Man that looks good!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted January 16, 2009 I strapped this on for about an hour last night and found it to be comfortable, but to not conceal as well as my pancake style holsters. My pancake holsters tend to pull the whole gun close into my body, whereas this holster seems to pull the butt of the gun in close, but not the top of the slide. For those who have made this design, do you find that this is the nature of the design, or do I need to change something? That is the nature of this design to some degree, but there are things you can do to improve the situation. Try tweaking your pattern a little and move the tunnel loop as close to the top of the slide as you can get away with. You can also add a "wing" to the front of the tunnel that may snug things in a bit. Finally, the cant of the holster and the placement on your body will have a whole lot to do with how close it stays to your side. I wouldn't worry about it too much, since the most common part of the pistol to "print" is the butt of the grip, and this style does an excellent job of concealing that if you place the rear slot correctly (and it looks like you've done a fine job of that - always try to keep the rear slot as close as possible, but remember to leave enough bend to fit the holster on a stiff gun belt without distorting the belt's shape). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted January 16, 2009 The blue lines should show you what I'm referring to. I also try to keep from putting leather on the mag release (at least the activating side; covering the opposite side could actually serve some benefits), since you don't want to inadvertently activate it with the holster, and at times during training courses you will want to be able to activate it while the pistol is holstered to induce planned "malfunctions" or perform administrative reloads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArcherBen Report post Posted January 16, 2009 Thank you all for the comments/suggestions. I just found this sight a few months ago and I've learned an immense amount of information from all of you that has directly led to a quick and steep learning curve for me. I look forward to continuing to learn more as I know I've still got plenty to work on. MrTobes, I used 7-8 oz. leather on this holster. As far as molding, I just use a plastic boning folder and whatever else I have laying around that seems to be a good fit for whatever I'm molding. I think the quality of leather helps some also. BoomStickHolsters, Thank you for the advice/suggestions. I was hoping that you'd respond to this thread. I've been secretly admiring your work as I've seen it posted to the site. I never thought of adding a wing to the tunnel loop, but I can definitely see how that could make a difference. It seems like I did indeed design the shape around the mag release, but I think I may have just pushed the gun into the holster a little farther than I had originally planned at the time of molding. I also noticed that after I was done and agree that it should not be covered. I'll make sure to be more careful on my next one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted January 17, 2009 Little things here and there will need to be tweaked before you get things how you like them. Sometimes I make a new holster three or four times before I am satisfied with the pattern. It's just part of the process. I keep telling myself that someday I will get some clicker dies made once I'm happy with the patterns, but I still keep messing with things. OH well.... Someday I will get around to it.... maybe.... when I'm not to busy.... Whenever that is.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
