My First Holster & Questions

[Hilborne]

The first two pictures are of my first. An early stage picture and the finshed product. I probably did a few things backwards, particularily I dyed last, and the dye didn't take too well. The third picture is my second holster and isn't quite finished yet. It will be an IWB with two straps one on the post you can see on the front of the throat, and the other will be on the wing on the left side. I have some questions. What is the appropiate way to finish the inside of the holster. In the last thread today K-Man made a comment "mold and then stitch". This is in regards to the stitching close to the trigger guard and along frame. So am I struggling with where to put my stitching so it all works out, or should I mold first and then stitch?

Andy

[TracyMoss]

In my limited experience, you should always mold then stitch.

[usmc0341]

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, how do you guys mold before you stitch???

[TwinOaks]

Wet mold the leather, while trying to hold the edges in place. This can have the effect of pulling one edge out of alignment with the other. Stitching then molding can run the other way- if you didn't leave enough leather between the stitches, you can end up with a pocket that's too small, requiring additional stretching. That might not be an issue with some holsters, but if you've tooled the leather, you could have to stretch the design. I'm sure others will chime in as well....

[usmc0341]

That's what I'm asking, how do you hold the leather in place while you mold it? On my holsters so far, I've stiched then go back and mold it, but it sounds like everyone else molds before they stitch.

[jt1]

Hilborne - I am quite new to this but I am molding first primarily because my design calls for a flat back and all of the gun needs to be molded into the front of the holster. Here are a few pic's of the front molded and one finished prototype. I think your holsters are looking really good and I am finding this leatherworking is mostly a lot of trial and error (In my case quite a bit of error) and it looks like you are well on your way.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Hi Hilborne. First of all, that's a nice job for a first attempt. My first holster didn't look nearly that good.

As far as molding then stitching goes, I don't think that is always the best way to do it. Depending on your machine and how it's set up, you may be very restricted on how closely you can get your stitches to the molding (at least with out marring the holster's finish with the walking foot). Secondly, if you mold before stitching you may scratch the bottom surface of your holster quite a bit, even if you have de-burred the plate and screws on your machine (a holster plate might help here, but I can't definitively say so because I have never used one).

I personally almost always stitch then mold. If it doesn't turn out well, I refine my pattern and try again. On new designs or new molds I will often use belly leather to test my pattern out, and make the necessary changes before I try it again on good leather. I'm not saying one way is definitely better than the other. I suggest you try both methods and see which works best for you.

Concerning the finish for the inside of the holster, I recommend starting with a hide that has a sanded back, and if you can afford it, a mossed or pasted back is really nice to use. These go a long way towards making a smoother surface on the inside of the holster. As for an actual finish, I use Angelus 600 on both the inside and outside of my holsters. After that has cured I wrap the dummy gun I used to mold the holster in waxed paper and force it in and out of the holster half a dozen times or more, depending on tightness.

'Hope this helps.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

That's what I'm asking, how do you hold the leather in place while you mold it? On my holsters so far, I've stiched then go back and mold it, but it sounds like everyone else molds before they stitch.

If I decide I need to mold before I stitch, I mark my stitch lines on the molded holster and wait for it to become dry to the touch. After that I brush a light coat of saddle glue on the inside surfaces I want to join. When they become tacky I push them to gether and "set" the glue by tapping the leather with a smooth faced hammer. This will hold the pieces together while you sew them, and it can also keep the holster from squeeking and creaking excessively later on.

[Jordan]

As a side note, I have been told and read elsewhere, that you do not want to mould to tightly to the actual trigger, which to me is a reasonable idea, as you don't need the leather to pull the trigger for you when re-holstering. Very good 1st holster by the way, that is how I did my 1st one also.

[Randyc]

Guys

I stitch then mold my holsters. If I'm building a holster that is only molded on one side, I still stitch first, then remove the bottom rubber pad from my press and only use the top pad to mold the holster.

Randy

[Hilborne]

I appreciate all the helpful comments. Boomstick assumed the use of a sewing machine, mine is a Sore Pinky model with both left and right hand operation, usually running horizontally North and South. Unfortunately I read the manual after I used it and ended up with a couple of bloody fingers. I think I'll stick with my current method of stitch first then mold. I just need to perfect it a little.

Jordon you have a good point about molding too tight around the trigger and one should keep that in mind. On the other hand I haven't heard of one going bang because of it, but have heard of a police officer having an accident with a Glock. He was wearing a piece of clothing that had a toggle hanging on his strong side and it got tangled up in his trigger guard when he holster it and didn't realize it until he took the weapon out and it pulled the trigger.

Thanks for the comments everyone, I'll put a picture up as soon as I get another one done.

Andy

[WaG35]

I actually do a little of both. I do all of the stitching except fot the stitching around the trigger guard before I mold. I handstitch, so it doesn't seem to be a problem. After molding I go back and add the stitching around the trigger guard. The one flat back holster that I did, I molded then stitched. Either way works, I just don't have enough experience to say which one works better.

[Billsotx]

I appreciate all the helpful comments. Boomstick assumed the use of a sewing machine, mine is a Sore Pinky model with both left and right hand operation, usually running horizontally North and South. Unfortunately I read the manual after I used it and ended up with a couple of bloody fingers. I think I'll stick with my current method of stitch first then mold. I just need to perfect it a little.

Jordon you have a good point about molding too tight around the trigger and one should keep that in mind. On the other hand I haven't heard of one going bang because of it, but have heard of a police officer having an accident with a Glock. He was wearing a piece of clothing that had a toggle hanging on his strong side and it got tangled up in his trigger guard when he holster it and didn't realize it until he took the weapon out and it pulled the trigger.

Thanks for the comments everyone, I'll put a picture up as soon as I get another one done.

Andy

Andy,

Cut you some little strips, like small band-aids, from mole skin to make padding for your fingers. Band-aids won't last long, but the mole skin will hold up for several hours. You'll eventually get callouses and won't need to do that; it'll ease the pain in the mean time. The Art of Hand Sewing by Stohlman is the bible on stitching if you don't have a copy it's worth the dime.

[Hilborne]

WaG53

I actually do a little of both. I do all of the stitching except fot the stitching around the trigger guard before I mold. I handstitch, so it doesn't seem to be a problem. After molding I go back and add the stitching around the trigger guard.

I'm going to experiment with this idea. Taking the day off from work and think I may have to work on a new holster.

Billsotx

Cut you some little strips, like small band-aids, from mole skin to make padding for your fingers. Band-aids won't last long, but the mole skin will hold up for several hours. You'll eventually get callouses and won't need to do that; it'll ease the pain in the mean time. The Art of Hand Sewing by Stohlman is the bible on stitching if you don't have a copy it's worth the dime.

I have Stohlman's book and it is worth the dime and then some. I'll take your advice on the mole skin. I tried a pair of gloves, and although they are real thin of a man made material to act and wear like leather they are too sticky and didn't really keep from irritating the cuts on my fingers. I think part of the problem is I just get too excited about doing it and can seem to slow down. At the time of stitching I don't feel the pain.

Andy

[Srigs]

Depending on which model of holster if I lightly cold wet mold the leather or mold after it is stitched. Pancake holsters are generally stitched before and flat backed holsters are cold wet formed for the out side then stitched.

Try them out yourself and then choose what works for you.

[Hilborne]

Srigs

I'm in the West Suburbs and see on the local forum you and some of the other holster nuts get together once in awhile. You guys have a holster party in the planning? I liked to observe if I could. Thanks.

Andy