What type of stitching irons do you use?

[Yukonrookie]

Apologies for yet another question folks,

What are y’all using for stitching irons? So far I’ve been using a couple 2mm diamond irons and there’s nothing wrong with them. Just curious as to what you folks prefer. I’m wondering on getting wider spacing and maybe better quality.  Mine are craftool and I got nothing bad to say about em, just that I’m thinking if trying out some higher end tools in general, as I’m enjoying this leather thing a whole bunch for sure and will keep on learning for many years to come, praise God. 

I’m guessing some sizes and spacing are better for some tasks and so forth? 

Also, I see there are “reverse” diamond irons that give sort of an offset pattern, if that makes sense. What would be the advantages to them? I read some calling it the “perfect saddle stitch”….

Thanks folks

Hank

[fredk]

I use; 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, depending on what I'm making. But my favourite are these stitching holes pliers (they're the 2mm spacing)

Edited December 4 by fredk

[TomE]

Lots of opinions about this.  My opinion is that if you learn to use a sewing awl you'll be faster and more versatile than when pre-punching holes.  You can do a lot of good work with an inexpensive awl (I use Osborne awls and hafts) and an overstitch wheel to mark the holes.  The holes always line up because you punch them after the project is assembled, and the hole size will match the thread.  It is particularly good for fine sewing and for sewing irregular shapes.  For example, I sew a lot of loops (keepers) and buckles on horse tack, and by angling the awl you can sew underneath the loop.  With an awl you can make small adjustments on the fly for stitch length and the path of the stitch line to make things work out.  Most of the time in hand sewing is spent pulling up the stitches and using the awl only takes a couple of seconds per stitch.  The one time I pre-punch holes is when sewing leather on woven fabric, so that I'm not cutting the threads of the fabric/webbing with an awl.

I think the reverse stitching punches are designed to complement the forward direction when sewing 2 layers back-to-back.  Use the reverse punch on the backside then the slanted holes will align when you assemble the layers back to back.

 

[Northmount]

On 12/4/2024 at 9:40 AM, Yukonrookie said:

What are y’all using for stitching irons? So far I’ve been using a couple 2mm diamond irons and there’s nothing wrong with them.

There is a sticky you should have a look at.

 

[Yukonrookie]

On 12/4/2024 at 6:05 PM, fredk said:

I use; 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, depending on what I'm making. But my favourite are these stitching holes pliers (they're the 2mm spacing)

They look nice. Do you use them on heavier leather/multiple layers? 

Thanks a lot @Northmount. Much appreciated.

[Yukonrookie]

On 12/4/2024 at 6:05 PM, TomE said:

It is particularly good for fine sewing and for sewing irregular shapes.  For example, I sew a lot of loops (keepers) and buckles on horse tack, and by angling the awl you can sew underneath the loop.  With an awl you can make small adjustments on the fly for stitch length and the path of the stitch line to make things work out.  Most of the time in hand sewing is spent pulling up the stitches and using the awl only takes a couple of seconds per stitch.

Now that makes a bunch of sense. Actually I had a 2mm awl come in the mail and I picked it up on my run to town yesterday. It works better than I had imagined. Just need some more practice now. I’m also surprised how quick it goes through, after I sharpened it up some. So you don’t use stitching irons at all then? What thickness do you still go through?

On 12/4/2024 at 6:05 PM, TomE said:

think the reverse stitching punches are designed to complement the forward direction when sewing 2 layers back-to-back.  Use the reverse punch on the backside then the slanted holes will align when you assemble the layers back to back.

Yup, that makes sense too. Thanks Northmound!

[Littlef]

I use Tandy 2mm diamond chisels.  I'm making primarily holsters.  I also have a stitching wheel I use occasionally, but I mostly use the chisels.

[fredk]

3 hours ago, Yukonrookie said:

. . . Do you use them on heavier leather/multiple layers? 

yes

[TomE]

3 hours ago, Yukonrookie said:

So you don’t use stitching irons at all then? What thickness do you still go through?

I do have pricking irons for marking holes at 7 SPI and 9 SPI.  I use overstitch wheels for other stitch lengths.

Most of my work is 1-3 layers of 9-10 oz leather.  I rarely sew leather more than 1/2" thick but a sharp awl works well for this.  I use different sized awls for different weights of leather, depending on the thread size.  As you sharpen the awls they get smaller, so you end up with a range of sizes.  I like a pegging awl haft for larger awls/thicker projects, and a palm haft for most of the rest. 

A key to making tidy stitch lines with an awl is to have the work clamped securely/consistently throughout the project so your angle of approach with the awl stays constant.  I use a Weaver stitching horse.  I modified the jaws with notched aluminum plates (leather lined) that are handy for the odd shaped parts of a bridle and a halter.

[Yukonrookie]

On 12/6/2024 at 9:45 PM, TomE said:

I do have pricking irons for marking holes at 7 SPI and 9 SPI.  I use overstitch wheels for other stitch lengths.

Most of my work is 1-3 layers of 9-10 oz leather.  I rarely sew leather more than 1/2" thick but a sharp awl works well for this.  I use different sized awls for different weights of leather, depending on the thread size.  As you sharpen the awls they get smaller, so you end up with a range of sizes.  I like a pegging awl haft for larger awls/thicker projects, and a palm haft for most of the rest. 

A key to making tidy stitch lines with an awl is to have the work clamped securely/consistently throughout the project so your angle of approach with the awl stays constant.  I use a Weaver stitching horse.  I modified the jaws with notched aluminum plates (leather lined) that are handy for the odd shaped parts of a bridle and a halter.

Lots of good Tips! Thanks a bunch. I especially like how you modified your stitching pony. That’s a great idea. I’ll try something similar. Thanks again.

[Yukonrookie]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Lots of great new info for me to get better with and practice. Much appreciated!

[TomE]

1 hour ago, Yukonrookie said:

Lots of good Tips! Thanks a bunch. I especially like how you modified your stitching pony. That’s a great idea. I’ll try something similar. Thanks again.

Not my idea. In his hand sewing book Stohlman shows notched plates made of plywood for stitching rounded leather. This has worked well for me.  Can use the space inside the notch as a regular stitching horse clamp. 

[Yukonrookie]

On 12/9/2024 at 1:11 PM, TomE said:

Not my idea. In his hand sewing book Stohlman shows notched plates made of plywood for stitching rounded leather. This has worked well for me.  Can use the space inside the notch as a regular stitching horse clamp

Right on. I should get some more books. All I got so far is a sheath making book by Joe Keeslar. Apologies for the late reply again. Going through some health issues at the moment and I’m in the hospital sometimes.

[TomE]

1 hour ago, Yukonrookie said:

Right on. I should get some more books. All I got so far is a sheath making book by Joe Keeslar. Apologies for the late reply again. Going through some health issues at the moment and I’m in the hospital sometimes.

Wishing you well.  Learned a lot from Stohlman's books on case making and leather tools.  I use it as a foundation to judge advice from the experts on Youtube.

[Yukonrookie]

On 12/15/2024 at 1:18 PM, TomE said:

Wishing you well.  Learned a lot from Stohlman's books on case making and leather tools.  I use it as a foundation to judge advice from the experts on Youtube.

I bought and downloaded a couple of his books. Thanks for the advice.